the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

remote start 2007 camry manual shift


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
beantownbrawler 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: December 19, 2008
Location: New Hampshire, United States
Posted: December 19, 2008 at 5:34 PM / IP Logged  
Guys, i am new here and could use some help. I just recently installed an Ultra Start 1280XR in my girl's 2003 kia Rio and had no issues and all went well. So, i do have some knowledge with electronics, but, not a ton. My issue is with my 2007 Toyota Camry CE with manual shift. I bought a Compustar 1W900FM-S and am just going over all i need to know before attempting the install. I am confused by the relays and the fact that i will need a bypass module for the immobilizer and will also need to bypass the clutch. Here are my questions: 1. How do i go about bypassing the clutch?  2. The guy who sold me the unit also sold me the pass4 bypass module, but, the harness does not match up with the brain. Which bypass module is the correct one??  3. Can someone with knowledge of the Compustars, explain the main 8 pin harness to me. Why is there a green wire for the parking lights on the main harness and another on the 18 pin harness. Sounds like overkill to me. I really appreciate any help you guys can give me on this.
tedmond 
Gold - Posts: 4,610
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: December 19, 2008 at 5:59 PM / IP Logged  

IS YOUR UNIT MANUAL SAFE????? pro compustars came with selectable tranny, but not sure about the one you have. if you got a autoremote start, go pick up a VSS unit or DEI 689M. to make your car manual start safe.

1. How do i go about bypassing the clutch? 

the clutch will either be negative or posive system. take a dmm and test the wires at the clutch to see.

if its negative there will be one wire that is always grounded and the other wire will go to ground when the clutch is pressed to the floor. if this is the case take your Ground While Running or status output wire it to a relay and send a negative to that wire.

if it 12v +, one will test 12v with key in ignition start position. other shows 12v when clutch is pushed down. if this is the case then take your start wire from the rs unit and wire it straight to the wire that shows 12v when clutch is pushed.

2. The guy who sold me the unit also sold me the pass4 bypass module, but, the harness does not match up with the brain.
Which bypass module is the correct one?? 

well that is a bypass that works, but its a CRAPPY one. sorry but thats a KIB meaning you must leave a key of yours inside to do the bypass. I suggest you fork out the extra 25 dollars and get a DATA bypass since that PASS 4 is about 14 dollars. with DATA bypasses, it learns the info from the key so you dont leave a key inside the car, more reliable, need to say more? the harness is not suppose to mach up since differant manufatures use differant colours of wiring. refer to wiring diagram always. many companies sell them and they all work great. here are some  companies i suggest:

bypasskits, Fortin, iDataLink

3. Can someone with knowledge of the Compustars, explain the main 8 pin harness to me. Why is there a green wire for the parking lights on the main harness and another on the 18 pin harness. Sounds like overkill to me. I really appreciate any help you guys can give me on this.

i did a compustar a while back for my mom. one is a negative parkinglight output while the other is positive.

GREEN / WHITE is negative output for parking lights connector 2 (8pin harness)

GREEN / WHITE is positive output for parking lights connector 1

NOTE !!!!

the car has multiple starter wires and ignitions. make sure all of them are powered up.

Chris Luongo 
Platinum - Posts: 3,746
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 21, 2002
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: December 20, 2008 at 10:28 AM / IP Logged  
The first Camry manual transmission I did, I ended up burning out the ground-when-running output from the remote start because I bypassed the clutch the wrong way.
1. I think at the clutch switch there are two heavy wires. One will test as a ground when you push the clutch switch in, but don't let that lead you in the wrong direction.......it's a positive starter wire, not a ground.
Anyway, so you'll find that one of those wires tests as a starter wire when you turn the key, anytime.
The other wire tests as a starter when you turn the key, but ONLY when the clutch is pushed in.
OK, so now you've found those two wires, right? You'll use a relay that'll jump those two wires together, but ONLY when the remote starter is on. When the remote starter is off, the clutch switch will work like factory.
Wire the relay like this:
87: one of the clutch wires
87a: no connection
30: other clutch wire
85: fused constant positive
86: ground-when-running or negative ignition output from remote starter. (Pretty much any kind of output from the remote starter that'll make a ground when it's on would work.)
2. Haven't used a PASS-4 myself, but yes, since it's a different brand, you'd have to cut off any kind of plug it has, and hardwire it to the compustar manually. How many wires does it have? Just two probably, right?
The instructions should explain.......one should be for constant positive, and the other should need a ground-when-running output from the remote starter.
What tedmond said is true, that the module you have is the most basic, and you'll lose a key. For a little more money, you could have got a module that would let you keep all your keys......but nothing wrong with using what you already have either.
3. They give you choices to do it whichever way you want. You'd use one or the other, but not both.
The Camry does have a brown positive parking light wire, down along the driver's running board.
But, the negative (black) parking light wire is right in with all the ignition wires, which makes for a neater job.
I would cut the green wire short (leave a couple of inches and tape it up in case you transfer to another car).........and run the negative parking light wire right along with your ignition wires.
(Not to overload you with information, but Compustar has a nice feature. When you use the negative parking light output, you can reprogram that green wire to be a positive trunk output. This saves time and money instead of having to wire up a relay to pop the trunk. But your Camry CE doesn't have a power trunk anyway, so in this case it's not of much use to you.)
MORE:
As tedmond said, your car has two ignition wires, two starters, and one accessory.
Accessory: I prefer not to connect accessory, to prevent the radio from coming on during remote start. But that's up to you.
Ignitions: You need to hook up both. One of them allows the car to start, and the other allows the heater to come on.
Connect the Compustar's Ignition 1 wire to the heavier yellow ignition wire in the car.
Connect the Compustar's "selectable" output to the pink ignition 2 wire in the car. The internal jumper should be on "ignition."
Starters: There are two starter wires, a heavy blue, and a smaller gray.
Some people will advise you to just take the Compustar's single starter output, connect it right up to the Camry's two starter wires, and call it a day.
That will work, and people have done it all the time and the car doesn't explode. However, Toyota built the car with two starter wires for a reason, and if you jump them together, you're changing the factory design of the car.
The Compustar does have a negative, low-current second starter output, made just for this purpose, and the instructions should tell you how to wire it up.
You would hook the Compustar's main starter output to the Camry's heavy blue wire.
You'd then use the Compustar's negative start output, wired to a relay (the install manual should show how), and the relay will power the car's second starter wire.
P.S. IMPORTANT:
You can't just use the Camry's domelight wire as the door trigger input to the Compustar. The car's domelight comes on when the engine shuts off, and the remote start enable mode will never work.
You have to catch all four doorpin wires separately, diode-isolate them, and then connect them to the Compustar.
The wires are all available at the fusebox, but two of them are on the backside, and really difficult to get to.
I do remember that the driver's doorpin is blue, and it's the only blue wire in a plug very low in the driver's kick panel.
I would guess that you could catch the driver's-rear door wire in the driver's running board.....and run over to the other side of the car, to the other kick panel, to catch the other two doors. Running the wire over to the other side of the car will probablhy prove far easier than reaching up behind the fuse box.
tedmond 
Gold - Posts: 4,610
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: December 20, 2008 at 10:38 PM / IP Logged  

thanks for expanding chris !

btw, pass4 i think i made by omega. seen itm but never installed one myself.

beantownbrawler 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: December 19, 2008
Location: New Hampshire, United States
Posted: December 21, 2008 at 9:30 AM / IP Logged  

Boy you guys are quick and knowledgeable!! Maybe i can expand a bit and get even more answers from you. The main harness is a cluster*&%$ of wires and relays. The Ultrastart i installed had no relays, just fuses, this is why i am confused.

The main harness has 8 pins:  grn/wht (parking light) Check

                                                      red (12v constant) Check

                                                      white (accesory) Check

                                                      RED / wht (12v constant pre wired to 2nd relay) ? would that 2nd relay do for my

                                                      clutch bypass???????

                                                       yellow (starter prewired to anti-grind relay) Check i think....starter wire

                                                       purple ( neg when armed prewired to anti-grind relay) ???????????

                                                       green and red (separate wires) ignition (separate red pre-wired to anti grind

                                                       relay)????????

                                                       black (gnd) check

1. do i need to wire up all four door pins??? or can i just tap into the drivers door trigger?

2. i do not have keyless entry now, will it work with the compustar? i will connect the neg unlock and the neg lock, but how do i know if it needs 2 pulses to function properly?

3. On to the bypass. It is 2 wires. Red (12v+) and blue/wht (neg while running) Do i just tap the red into a 12v constant wire? What wire is gnd while running??? I have a dmm and understand how to measure volts, but, testing for negatives and grounds are new to me, if you explain, i will understand it. The guy who solt it to me told me i should look for an orange wire for the gnd while running????????

You guys are going to make this project a breeze once i tie down these loose ends. I appreciate the help once again.

Mike M2 
Platinum - Posts: 2,652
Platinum spacespace
Joined: June 29, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 21, 2008 at 10:05 AM / IP Logged  

I don't know Ultrastart so i can't comment on that but can tell you yes, you must connect all 4 door triggers. The drivers door pin wire is just that, the drivers door wire only, To make the alarm trigger for all doors you need to get all 4 door triggers and diode isolate them from each other.

As for locks, they are negative pulse so you can connect them directly. The highest plug in the kickpanel has a small brown and a small gray on the backside, they are it. The gray pulsed once unlocks the drivers door, second pulse unlocks the rest. This makes 2 stage unlocking a breeze to connect on most alarms.

The red on the bypass does go to 12v constant. As for your GWR wire, again i don't know your unit. The GWR wire will show negative whenever the RS is on. Set you DMM to an ohm setting and connect the black lead to metal in the car. Take the red lead and touch another peice of metal and the reading should go to zero, or close to it. Use the red lead to test the wire you wish by touching it to it and seeing if the meter does the same thing. This how you test for negative polarity....

Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
beantownbrawler 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: December 19, 2008
Location: New Hampshire, United States
Posted: December 21, 2008 at 10:18 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks Mike. Basically in an ohm setting, when i probe the wires, i will receive a negative or positive reading. Beautiful.
Mike M2 
Platinum - Posts: 2,652
Platinum spacespace
Joined: June 29, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 21, 2008 at 1:03 PM / IP Logged  

No, a negative is the same as chassis ground. Notice if you touch your probes together the reading is zero, so, if you ground one probe to chassis whenever you touch any negative wire with the other probe you should get zero.

Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
beantownbrawler 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: December 19, 2008
Location: New Hampshire, United States
Posted: December 28, 2008 at 1:32 PM / IP Logged  
I have all hooked up and rem strt is responding, but, the problem now is the bypass module. I have 12v on the red, 12v on the blue/wht and it goes to ground when the rem strt is ready to go, but, the antenna ring is not bypassing the immobilizer. If i wave a key in front of the key hole, it starts right up. I even went as far as to remove the hard black plastic on the camry key, exposing, just the key and the chip and the white plastic that holds it in place. It still will not work. I have tried the antenna in different locations to no avail. PLEASE HELP!!!! Thanks to JWorm for the personal assistance. Circuit city says they sell a similar unit for $60, but, out of stock. So checking a second bypass is not an option right now.
Chris Luongo 
Platinum - Posts: 3,746
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 21, 2002
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: December 28, 2008 at 3:37 PM / IP Logged  
The ring around the keyhole has to be just right. If the loop is too big, it won't work.
Let me see if I can describe it.
OK, so when the car's all put together and normal, if you open the door, see that little ring of light around the keyhole? Well, try to remember that.
Take the column cover off.
So now you have that "ring of light" that you could see before, and then around it a sort of "ledge" that would normally be covered by the steering column cover.
Hope that makes sense so far.
So the loop that comes with that bypass module is probably pretty big, so big you could just almost toss it over the car's ignition switch like a lasso.
So, put your hands around the wire leading to that ring that comes with the bypass module.......slide your fingers closer and closer to the ring......when your fingers get to the ring, put your fingers around the ring and kind of "pinch" it so the ring is smaller, get it?
So, "pinch" that part so that the ring is so small that it just barely barely fits onto that "ledge."
Now, wrap a piece of tape (or a small zip tie) where you had your fingers pinched, so the ring is now permanently that size forever.
Put the ring back onto the "ledge," and try the remote start. It should work.
Put a couple of pieces of tape just to temporarily hold the ring onto the "ledge" until you can get the car back together. You don't have to do a great job with the tape, the column shroud will hold it there from now on.
Page of 2

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Sunday, June 9, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer