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'11 toyota camry rs cranks no start


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gamez1515 
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Joined: June 23, 2011
Posted: June 24, 2011 at 6:49 PM / IP Logged  
Installed Viper 5901 with Idatalink ads-al(TB)-tl2 on Camry 2011 "G" Stamped key
2011 Camry Std.key 80-bit Sedan Automatic 4 Cyl with no push to start
When I press remote start the starter begins to crank but no start. As soon as I put in the key (without turning it to on) the car starts.
5901
H2/10 Dark Blue   to Blue wire at ignition    Camry
ADS
GWR Blue/White   to Blue wire at ignition    Camry
I did not use the diode that is listed in the diagram because i have read in another post that it is not needed. Could this be my problem?
Another question I have is for the door locks. I found the blue and green wire but I'm not getting a negative reading. I have connected them directly to the 5901 and they do not lock or unlock.
Thanks in advance.
'11 toyota camry rs cranks no start -- posted image.
'11 toyota camry rs cranks no start -- posted image.
kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: June 24, 2011 at 8:06 PM / IP Logged  

The diode is to prevent the Keysense signal, created when the key is in the ignition switch, from turning on the

bypass module.  I would install a diode or, in the case of a Viper 5901, if you are not using the H2/16 Blue/White
wire for the defrost function, you could use it as a second (-) Status Output.  ( H2/10 for the bypass & H2/16 for Keysense.)

A few question about the bypass.  Assuming you are running in W2W mode from the (-) Status / GWR wiring.

Is it downloaded / flashed with the ADS AL(TB)-TL2 firmware?
Did you set its' mode to "Standard", two blinks?  Top of Page 34
Did the bypass program as per the instructions in the install guide?  Bottom of Page 34

On the door locks :

Here is info from DEI.  Did you test by using the passenger switch?
Power Lock       blue (test with passenger switch)    -  dash fuse box, white 12 pin plug (J), pin 3 
Power Unlock    green (test with passenger switch)  -  dash fuse box, white 12 pin plug (J), pin 4

Soldering is fun!
gamez1515 
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Joined: June 23, 2011
Posted: June 24, 2011 at 8:26 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks for your quick response
So the H2/16 goes to blue wire at ignition along with blue/white from ADS? Where does H2/10 get connected?
It is flashed with the ADS AL(TB)-TL2 firmware
I haven't set it's mode to standard or bypassed but will do that now. And I will look for the passenger switch. Thanks again will update soon
kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: June 24, 2011 at 8:58 PM / IP Logged  

The Viper has two (-) Status Output wires, H2/10 and H2/16.  You can connect H2/10 directly to the ADS (-) Blue/White GWR

input wire.  ( Also connect the dashed Power and Ground wires for W2W. Follow the Type 2 Install diagram. )

Verify that the Viper programming for Menu 3, Item 11 is set at the factory default of Opt 1 (-) Status and

connect that to the Camrys' Blue Keysense wire.

Soldering is fun!
thecoolmankyle7 
Copper - Posts: 77
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Joined: April 25, 2011
Posted: June 24, 2011 at 9:11 PM / IP Logged  
The Diod is not going to stop in from cranking, I probably would use it but it should still start. The fact that it will remote start with the key in the switch means that it is not bypassing the security. I would try going through the programming process and key learning again. also double check all of your connections including the security light from the bypass mod, it does matter.
gamez1515 
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Posted: June 24, 2011 at 9:56 PM / IP Logged  
I connected h/10 to ads blue/ white ( by themselves) H16 to keysense blue and now it still cranks without key and as soon as i put key in it turns on but now it turns off after 3 seconds.
After i flash the module what exactly do i do. Ive been reading for a week now guys go easy on me and thanks for the help
Got the power locks to work thanks.
Kyle... Funny you mentioned security light i could not find it in any diagram so i did not connect it. If you can help thanks
thecoolmankyle7 
Copper - Posts: 77
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Joined: April 25, 2011
Posted: June 24, 2011 at 10:16 PM / IP Logged  
In that car I thinks its up high on the dash. if you set in the car with the doors shut and lock it with the factory remote it should start flashing. you actualy have to tap it at the light. Did you follow the programming chage that kreg357 mentioned when you use that wire? Me personaly I would have just put the diode in insted,
gamez1515 
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Posted: June 24, 2011 at 10:26 PM / IP Logged  
I did use that programing change... I wanted to do it without diode. I have to drive 20 miles just to get one. Pick one up tomorrow. I know the security light flashes just hoping i could find it at the fuse box with a certain wire color. Thanks again Kyle
kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: June 24, 2011 at 10:26 PM / IP Logged  

Did you connect the iDatalink bypass to the car as per the Type 2 wiring diagram?  Did you program the iDatalink bypass module to the car as per the instructions on Page 34 of the Install Guide? 

Did you connect the Viper Tach Input wire, H2/9, to the Camrys' Tach source?  Did you program the Viper for Tach Mode? ( Menu 3, Item 2, Option 4 )

Did you do a Tach Learn process on the Viper?

Soldering is fun!
gamez1515 
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Posted: June 24, 2011 at 10:39 PM / IP Logged  
1. Yes
2. After i flashed the module i connect it with all wiring... With car off i push and release programming button nothing happens.
3. H2/9 connected
4. Yes
5. Yes
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