pljx problem, viper 4103xv in 1999 buick

Hello all, I have a 1999 Buick Regal that I installed a Viper 4103XV remote starter [3/4 installed, anyway :)] and XpressKit PLJX bypass module in. I've yet to be able to get it to start consistently is the #1 issue that I've got. Usually after programming the bypass module it'll remote start a few times, and then it just decides it doesn't want to any more. The remote starter will try to start the car, but when voltage is applied to the starter circuit, nothing happens - this is why I suspect the bypass module as the culprit.

---Lately even after programming the bypass it won't start. Still will if I just insert the key either before [still don't have to turn the key at all], or while it's attempting to start, but if it's not in there then nothing happens. I'm quite stumped at this point. The bypass says after programming to connect the brown ground wire to the "ground output on the remote starter" although the 4103XV's wiring guide isn't at all clear about what wire that is. I'd think it's either the status wire on the satellite harness, or the orange "ground when locked" wire in the main harness, but I just don't know. Because it'll start with the key in and not turned I'd think it may be the keysense wire, but I tried hooking that up [perhaps incorrectly] and it didn't seem to make a difference. I'm quite desperate for help as I'd really prefer to not have to take it to a shop to get it done since I've got the vast majority of it done successfully myself. Thanks in advance! -Sootah

Here's the PLJX install guide: http://www.bypasskit.com/Manuals/922_PLJX_H00_S00_D00_I_EN.pdf The Viper 4103XV: http://www.12voltdistributors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/Viper_4103XV_Installation_Guide.pdf

Oh, also - WHAT is the "ground when running" output wire on the 4103XV? Absolutely nothing in their install guide lets me know.

Dei calls it status output, its the blue wire on the small 4 pin harness, you can also use the blue/white wire in the harness with the tach and brake wires. The default setting for the blue/white is 2nd status outputIf i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

GWR is either H3/5 blue/white on the H3 harness or pin 1 blue on the satellite harness. You also have a purple NEG (-) starter output at pin 3 on the satellite harness, I believe that's the one referred to. This info should have been with the 4103.

I tried the blue status wire on the satellite harness this morning, did not work. As usual would remote start as soon as the key is inserted [and keep running if it's removed] but not otherwise. I also tested the voltage with my multi-meter on the satellite status wire when engaging the remote and it reads with a bit of voltage instead of ground. [I have the meter set to read volts DC] I've not tried the purple wire yet I'll have to check it out. At this point I'm tempted to just read the resistance of the key and make my own bypass. From what I've seen of it it looks pretty straightforward. Do I just read the resistance of the chip on the key, or for Passlock II do I have to read the value between the yellow/black wire when trying to start as I've seen in some guide? Also, with PLII do I cut the yellow wire, attach the resistors, then splice in to the black one, or do I cut the black one as well? any additional steps I'm missing for a do-it-yourself bypass? It's cold outside. I want my car to be warmer than sub-zero when I get into it! :) Thanks a million for the assistance!

The VATS system has a pellet resistor chip in the key head.  You can use a DMM to read the actual resistance

value.  There are only 16 values possible.  Here is a list :   392: Orange, White, Red Black   523: Green, Red, Orange, Black   681: Blue, Gray, Brown, Black   887: Gray, Gray, Violet Black 1,130: Brown, Brown, Orange, Brown 1,470: Brown, Yellow, Violet, Brown 1,870: Brown, Gray, Violet, Brown 2,370: Red, Orange, Violet, Brown 3,010: Orange, Black, Brown, Brown 3,740: Orange, Violet, Yellow, Brown 4,750: Yellow, Violet, Green, Brown 6,040: Blue, Black, Yellow, Brown 7,500: Violet, Green, Black, Brown 9,530: White, Green, Orange, Brown11,800: Brown, Brown, Gray, Red

There are some odd-ball values but the Directed 652T resistor kit ( which is for this exact purpose ) can be had

for under $5.  The resistor value has to be very precise.

However, I'm thinking you are doing something wrong in the install of the PLJX module.  The only wires

for the VATS system are the two very thin White or Yellow wires that are encased in a Orange vinyl jacket.Here is a link to the relay and resistor method VATS bypass :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=237

Soldering is fun!

if you have a chip right on the barrel of the key you have the VATS system and you would be finding two very small white wire in a grey sleeve that come from the switch down to a big plug and junction on the passenger side of the colume. On the pljx you will have to set the jumpers for Vats and connect to the correct white wire.

kreg357 wrote: However, I'm thinking you are doing something wrong in the install of the PLJX module.  The only wires for the VATS system are the two very thin White or Yellow wires that are encased in a Orange vinyl jacket.

Well aren't I embarrassed.. I had only looked at the PLJX instructions and had read elsewhere about them being possibly in a grey sleeve. I cut open the sleeve shown in the attached pic and found the yellow and black wires mentioned in the install guide as well as a green one that I figured might be keysense. Sooooo - does the other grey sleeve I cut open [that I did, in fact, verify goes right to the cylinder] look correct? It's got the two tiny white wires inside. I'd assume that I just hook up the PLJX blue to one and PLJX black to the other [resistors don't care which way the current flows] but at this point I want to make no assumptions.. :) So A) Is that the correct sleeve/set of wires and B) does it matter which goes to PLJX blue/black? If it does I'd think you just have to try hooking it up one way and if that doesn't work then the other. And finally - how do I properly test for a ground when using a multi-meter? I'd like to be able to confirm what wire on the Viper 4103XV is actually putting out ground if possible. Thanks yet again! PS: My key's resistor reads dead-on at 886.

Pic: