idatalink ads al ca + ads tbsl ha

I am using both ADS-AL CA and ADS-TBSL HA modules in a 2012 Honda Civic with a Viper 5904v alarm/remote start. My question is this: Do both modules need to be connected to the ignition (pin 2) and key data (pin 6) wires at the 7 pin ignition switch? Or do I only connect ignition and key data to the transponder bypass? Thanks. Note: The hyperlink above will not work for ADS-AL(DL)-HA3 please see the address below http://cdncontent2.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-HA3/DBI-AL(DL)-HA3-EN_20130909.pdf

The big question is why are you using both iDatalink bypass modules?  Unless I'm missing something here, you only need the ADS AL CA bypass module flashed with the DBI AL(DL)-HA3 *** firmware. 

The ADS TBSL HA bypass module will only do the transponder bypass function while the ADS AL CA module, flashed with the DBI AL(DL)-HA3 firmware will do the transponder bypass plus the other features ( locks, alarms, door, trunk, hood, brake, E-Brake status and supply a tach signal,   A lot more bang for the buck.

*** You could use the ADS AL CA flashed with the ADS AL(DL)-HA3 firmware and connect to the Viper in W2W mode.  The DBI flavor of firmware will allow a D2D or W2W connection.

Soldering is fun!

I am using both modules because the all in one modules bypass was not working properly. It would start the car but then shut down a minute or so after. It would then display the red security light and a green key on the instrument panel. The idatalink module would then flash indicating a gwr error. I checked my connections and even re-flashed the idatalink to be sure it was set up for a w2w install. The idatalink instructions page 3, important notes I & II stated that if gwr could not be provided before remote start then a seperate module strictly for bypass must be installed. I purchased then installed bypass module which worked at the time. I left for a hunting trip and came back home to an angry wife.. the all in one module had burned out.. so the alarm was not talking to the car but it would remote start due to the bypass module (which sets off the oem alarm. But I found the fix for this) I did not have the ignition and key data wires hooked up to the all in one unit after the install of the bypass.. this may be why it burned out.. maybe?.. I purchased a replacement all in one idatalink (same model). I attempted to install it last night.. While attempting to program it for w2w I locked in the setting just fine but as soon as the key went into the ignition to complete the programming it took a crap and became unresponsive. I thought I burned it out too.. (they arent cheap). I dissconected all wires from the bypass and reset to to factory settings by holding the button while connecting the power plug and attempted the install again. Same results. I went back to the drawing board before burning this unit out.. that is where the question of of whether or not I should connect the ignition and key data wires to both units.. Seeing as it will not let me program it, I am assuming those wires should be connected.

Are you going W2W with both bypass modules? 

I'm pretty sure that the Viper 5904 outputs the H2/9 (-) Status Output before it brings up the H3/1 Pink ignition wire so those warning shouldn't apply.

You are right, the iDatalink bypass modules are pricey and rightfully so.  They are well designed, thoroughly tested and come with clear and precise documentation.  I personally can only remember one OBF ( Out of Box Failure ) module in all the years I have been using them.

Think I would use only the ADS AL CA flashed with the DBI AL(DL)-HA3 firmware and try D2D. 

Soldering is fun!

Yes, I am using w2w on both modules. Do the modules need to be flashed specifically for either d2d or w2w? or can I just select either one when I install it? Both are currently flashed for w2w. Since both modules are currently installed and I have already wasted the money on them, would there be any problem with using both at the same time? If so, should I go ahead and connect the key data and ignition wires to both?

I am not currently using H2/9... What would I connect it to?

What do you have connected to the ADS bypass modules Blue/White GWR Input wire?  I'm really

confused now.  Perhaps you should list your W2W bypass module connections.

If the Vipers (-) Status Output wasn't working for the ADS AL CA what GWR signal are you using for the

ADS TBSL HA?

Long story on the modules with W2W, D2D and the two flavors of firmware ( ADS or DBI ).

ADS protocol supports D2D on Compustar, Ultra Start and other brands.DBI protocol supports D2D on Directed, Audiovox  and some other brands.If you are currently flashed with ADS AL(DL)-HA3, then you can only go W2W.If you are currently flashed with DBI AL(DL)-HA3, you could go D2D with the Viper unit ( and W2W would work OK, too ).

When you flash a module you can select the communications protocol ( ADS or DBI ) and also select

W2W, one-way D2D or two-way D2D.

I have never had the problem you have or needed to use two modules ( except on Subaru's ) on one

vehicle.  My main concern is how are you keeping the ADS AL CA from trying to do the transponder bypass function so the ADS TBSL HA can do it?  Seems like a big fight there.  There might be a way in the Advanced Programming when you flash the module, but I never looked.

Soldering is fun!

I have Blue/White connected to H1/6. I just read ground when armed and hooked it up..

No, it goes to H2/9 ( or H2/3 if you aren't using it for anything else ( defrost ) ).

That is one of the Gotcha's on  Directed products.  They call the GWR signal    " (-) 200 mA Status Output ".

Soldering is fun!

Ok. I really appreciate all of the help. This was my first install. It has been a pain... You helped me out almost a year a go when I was originally installing it. I just kinda gave up on the remote start portion once the weather warmed up. It is cooling off again and I have to get it finished. I owe ya. I'll have at it first thing in the morn. I installed a viper 5904 in my '10 challenger R/T the other day for alarm only. It went in pretty easy. It seems to work so far...