08 Nissan Titan RS - 6200S - Blade-AL

I've been out the remote start game for years.. Want to put one in my new (used) 08 Titan.. I have a Compustar 6200S brain in my stock from when I used to do this on the side.. I also have an XK02 bypass which looks like will work.. I had planned on getting RF-2WG9-SP remote/antenna.. I'm also wondering if getting a Blade-AL would make the install easier rather then the XK02? I did see the wiring posted here but it was from 2008 and the pictures were dead.. I didn't know if someone could post it and if they had any tips/pictures/advise as well.. Thanks so much!

idatalink's products are incredibly easy to wire and program (their guides are excellent, key learn procedure is super simple for most vehicles). I don't know anything about the bypass you mentioned (Compustar is all I install, and idatalink most of the time), but between the ease of use and clean install you get from a blade cartridge, I'd go with them. With that said, idatalink isn't as friendly to hobbyists and diy guys like us as some other companies. You need their flash cable (and to sign up for an account on their "dealer only" website) or pay someone on ebay to flash for you. Better to get the cable in my opinion; $35 and you can use it to change options later (on the bypass AND Compustar controller). Either way, I'd also recommend looking into using a T-harness as well. Fortin sells one for your truck (THAR-NIS2; ~$40 on ebay) intended for their Evo-One remote start/bypass all-in-one unit. I just did a 2014 Tundra with one of them; just cut off the end intended for their controller and solder on the pigtail that goes to the 6200. Of course, you'll want to double check the wiring (sometimes Fortin's solutions are a bit weird; check their wiring against a wiring diagram online) and the bench prep will be a bit more work but it'll save you a bunch of time in the vehicle. Oh, and the G9's are great remotes especially in terms of bang-for-the-buck. Like $80 right now; a steal for a 3000 ft. 2-way if you ask me (last year it wasn't uncommon for that kit to sell for $90-110).

Thanks much for the reply.. So what exactly to those T-Harness's do? What's the benefit?

Also, so how do I know which type of install to follow for my Titan? Is it type 1? It says standard key is type 1 and standard key with alarm is type 2.. How do I know if I have the alarm? This is the manual for the ADS-AL that I need, I believe.. It looks like I only need to connect 7 total wires? Is that right?

A pretty standard way to test for an alarm would be to roll the window down, close all the doors, lock the truck, wait about a minute, then reach through the window and unlock & open the door. Another way you might be able to test for it is by locking the truck (again, drivers window open), waiting about a minute, then reaching in and popping the hood (since the idatalink guide indicates that the alarmed models have a hood pin). While the link to the idatalink guide in your post doesn't work (looks like it's missing a couple parentheses for some reason), it appears to be the right one (NI4). And yes, 7 wires for the bypass. As far as the T-harness goes, it eliminates the need for you to splice into the vehicles main ignition wires (ACC/IGN/START/etc.) by providing factory-like connectors. The T-harness has a pigtail pre-spliced with a connector for the remote start brain on the end. This way, when you go to install, you:      1. Unplug the ignition connector from it's socket (probably on or near the steering column)      2. Plug the male ignition connector on the T-harness into the socket in the vehicle      3. Plug the vehicle's ignition connector (disconnected in step 1) to the female ignition socket on the T-harness.      4. Plug the controller-specific end into the remote start controller (in this case, it's Fortin-specific) The only work you would have to do in this case happens out of the vehicle. Cross reference the wire colors in the vehicle to their corresponding colors on the new harness, then use that information to neatly solder on the Compustar main harness in place of the Fortin one. For example (these colors are just made up):      +12V   -   Red (in vehicle)   ->   Red (T-harness)   ->   Red + RED / White (Compustar harness)      ACC1   -   White (in vehicle)   ->   Orange (T-harness)   ->   White (Compustar harness)      ACC2   -   Brown (in vehicle)   ->   Pink (T-harness)   ->   Blue (Compustar harness)      IGN   -   Pink (in vehicle)   ->   Green (T-harness)   ->   Green (Compustar harness)      ... etc.

Thanks again for the reply.. So if I test for the alarm the way you suggested and the horn goes off.. That means per Idatalink's manual I would have "STD key w/ alarm" ? Therefore I'd go with type 2 of install? Also, alarm is different then immobilizer.. Do you know how to tell if I have immobilizer or not? As far as the T-harness.. Those look badass but since this is a truck and I have plenty of room to get access to those wires I'm going to save the money.. Still trying to figure out the wiring.. Man, I did about 30 installs 10 years ago.. Crazy how the mind forgets things! LOL

No problem. Yes, alarm in the truck = install type 2. You should know that a type 2 install will probably be more difficult due to the fact that door locks aren't controlled through the vehicle computer. On the type 2 wire cross reference chart, notice how it says "Empty" in the wire color column for lock/arm and unlock/disarm? Nissan doesn't have a wire in those pin locations so your options for interfacing with the locks are either a) sticking new wires in the plug and bending them over, hoping not to short them out (pretty sketchy) or b) finding a different place to tap into the power locks. It varies by vehicle (obviously), but I did an '04 maxima and had to snake wires through the driver door boot to get to some actual lock wires. Huge PITA when the rubber boot is a skinny S shape. The T-harness is essentially a direct trade: money for time. So long as you make good connections, don't intend to remove the system and have plenty of time for the install, there's no need for it. And yes, it's somewhat like math: if you don't use it regularly, you lose (some of) it!

Oh man.. So if I have the transponder there's no bypass that can do the locks? That sucks!! How do I tell if I have transponder again?

Ah, sorry about that; went and found a video about testing for immobilizer but then didn't paste in the link. Here you go: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aFU5ix20uDI (I'd probably recommend being a bit more liberal on your use of aluminum foil than the guy in the video, though, just to be sure) And no, if you have an alarm you're in for a fun time with the locks. Either way, you probably have a transponder/immobilizer (but might not) which just determines what you do with the ORANGE / black wire to the Blade.

OK. So if I have the alarm, the Blade-AL will not do the locks.. It looks like if I do have the alarm the Blade-AL also doesn't arm/disarm the alarm either?