2014 Chevrolet Silverado 1500, Remote Start Alarm?

Hello all, im looking into purchasing a viper or directed with remote start and keyless entry. Id also need a module. Sonicelectronix list a viper 4101 or something that comes with dball2. Upon calling to verify it will work the tech support states we no longer carry directed products due to people messing up their cars. I hold no one liable. Im fully capible and have wiring schematics available. I work as an HVACR technician, so installing this is right up my alley. The problem i have is what alarm to choose and what module to make it work with my truck. I was hoping to stay between $100-$200 also I'm looking for something that cannot be easily deactivated by the little computers the theifs have these days. Thanks!

Viper is a brand name and I can understand your desire to use one. That being said, you probably know that Directed ( DEI ) and Viper will not provide any installation support nor warranty on any of their products that are not installed by one of their dealers. ( Of course, most other manufacturers in this field have the same policy. ) Now for the fun part. Your truck needs a bypass module. For most newer vehicles, a bypass module is the easy way to go. They do a whole lot more than just bypass the transponder immobilizer system. The previously mentioned DBALL2 can do this but it needs to be flashed with 402.GM10 Ver 4.23 firmware. This can be easily done with a XKLoader3 or 4 and Dealer access to their restricted WEB site.   I'm guessing that you are not a Dealer and don't buy $2,000 worth of DEI products every quarter. If the seller ( SonicElectronics ) can properly flash this bypass module for you, then you are all set, as it does not require any additional programming to be installed. Next comes your budget. Getting a remote start and alarm system with a full function bypass module for under $200 is possible but would be a one way remote system with a max range of 1,500 feet. Your additional request for added security to prevent theft could be handled by a circuit to prevent Starter Motor engagenment while the Viper alarm is set.   This would reqire a relay and the use of this vehicle wire : Starter yellow (for starter kill only) + starter @ underhood fuse box, green 58 pin plug, pin E2 A good alternative to the Viper is a Computar CS7900AS system. It will give you the R/S and Alarm functions with a longer range of 3,000 feet plus one on the remotes is 2-way for $140. The best bypass module for the Compustar is an iDatalink ADS AL-CA module. It would have to be flashed with the ADS GM7 firmware but there are sellers that will do this prior to shipment with a total price of $55. Still under $200, but a better system. The starter kill relay is a basic +12V SPDT relay with a harness. They go for about $5 if you don't have you available from your job. A few notes... Assuming your truck has an automatic transmission. Assuming power door locks. The install can vary on OnStar and OEM Alarm equipped vehicles. Pretty easy install, most everything is done at the BCM and OBD2.Soldering is fun!

I dont think I could ask for a better response i.e you rock! I'm in line with what your saying. I was under the assumption directed still made the better product. Times changed i guess unless CS is made by directed? Compustar is one I'll check into. Ive seen it listed and passed over it a few times. Im ok with the idatalink as a choice of modules and understand the function decently. In regards to a theif disabling an alarm my concern isn't driving off but them disabling and geting into. Here in TX silverados are gone in 13 seconds onstar disabled in less then a min. Anyone here about the 50+ trucks found stripped? Im trying to avoid that. They have a little black box of sorts that picks the code and disables the alarm. This is what i want to fight against.two ways cars are vandalized for the most part. Either said box or towed and stripped. To me a glass mic and tilt sensor is all thats needed as the door trigers will take care of the rest. Im really good with the pricing you've stated. Truck is an auto with power locks and no onstar. Just a basic work truck. Do you have any perfered sites to buy from?

Directed does make good products. Brand recognition is very high. Where they take a hit is when amateurs try to install their products with limited info / guides. They brick their vehicle and blame the aftermarket products. Vehicle electronics has become very sensitive and the indiscriminate use of a 12V incandescent test light will cause damage... You can't put a price on a quality install job. Over the years iDatalink has done a much better job with the bypass module side of the install and that is where it really counts. That being said, the ADS AL-CA can be programmed to function with DEI R/S units. While the CS7900-AS comes with a basic shock sensor, you would probably want to go with the Firstech FT-DAS-II Gen2 4 in 1 sensor. An extra $30 but includes tilt and glass break coverage. eBay is where you can find the ADS AL-CA bypass module and sellers that will flash it for you prior to shipment. Standard eBay common sense rules on picking a quality seller. Amazon is another option for the Compustar system, same rules apply. I've used SonicElectronics before with decent results, just be sure to be very explicit on your trucks equipment and your requirements. The only other alternative is to get an ADS USB cable ( >$40 ) and flash the bypass module yourself.Soldering is fun!

Awesome!!! I have a testo DVM and all sorts of connectors. Im going to itemize the parts and run the list by the misses. Once I get the green light its going to get rolling. One thing i really want to do is add blue leds to the exterior that are in sequence with the blue armed light in the alarm kit. Maybe a little overkill, but hey I like tinkering big time just by nature. One concern is the amp draw which likely will be minimal, but that will be determined once they are picked out and installed. Man this is going to be fun! Oh hey does the module programing require a vin to be complete? If so I'll likely just buy the cord and do it myself. Thanks again!

No VIN needed but if you go with the ADS AL-CA bypass module, the firmware flash will be ADS-AL(DL)-GM7. Depending on whether or not you have a Factory Alarm system it will be either Install Type 8 or 9. Here is a link to the guide :    https://images.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-GM7/ADS-AL(DL)-GM7-EN_20191107.pdf The iDatalink Install Guide is very accurate for the location of the necessary wires. About the only thing they leave out is the +12V Constant source. You will find several +12V constant sources in the BCM White and Blue plugs, top row of 4 pins. Each one is 20 Amps. Another source is dash side fuse box, a Red/White wire rated at 30 Amps. The R/S system won't draw a whole lot, even with the siren and LEDs. Good luck with the project.Soldering is fun!

I would agree with the above. I am an old school installer that has been out the industry for at least 10 years. Directed does make a good system but they could careless about the DIY market. They offer 0 support and 0 warranty if not purchased at and done by an authorized dealer/installer. Only reason I put one in my truck is because it was a gift from a family member. If I was buying one you can bet it wouldn't be directed. Your security concern is a little tricky... no matter what you do it will never be fool proof. Locks on doors and alarms on cars only keep honest people honest. Give me just about any car that is not mine and I could careless about and I will defeat the system in less than 30 seconds. First thing I am doing is opening the door, popping the hood and then cutting the battery cable... I would have all the time in the world and silence to carry out whatever my intentions were. I would suggest a backup battery, burry everything in a hard place to get to and avoid putting your components under the dash on the driver side (most common place to have them). Your led blink idea is good in theory but more than likely will not happen like you think it will. You normally have a ground while armed output which is only designed to drive a relay. You will have to wire in a relay and you will have to have something external to produce the flash. You will not be able to add any additional LEDs to the led that comes with the alarm. You would burn out the output.Thats my 2 cents.... take it for what its worth!

Nothing can replace experience

Awesome! I will most deffinetly will post my progress! Mainly because this is the most friendly and informative forum where people actually have knowledge. Most forums these days are all fuss and zero hands on. Its all contact this member he makes xyz or pay a mechcanic... Smh

daze wrote: I would agree with the above. I am an old school installer that has been out the industry for at least 10 years. Directed does make a good system but they could careless about the DIY market. They offer 0 support and 0 warranty if not purchased at and done by an authorized dealer/installer. Only reason I put one in my truck is because it was a gift from a family member. If I was buying one you can bet it wouldn't be directed. Your security concern is a little tricky... no matter what you do it will never be fool proof. Locks on doors and alarms on cars only keep honest people honest. Give me just about any car that is not mine and I could careless about and I will defeat the system in less than 30 seconds. First thing I am doing is opening the door, popping the hood and then cutting the battery cable... I would have all the time in the world and silence to carry out whatever my intentions were. I would suggest a backup battery, burry everything in a hard place to get to and avoid putting your components under the dash on the driver side (most common place to have them). Your led blink idea is good in theory but more than likely will not happen like you think it will. You normally have a ground while armed output which is only designed to drive a relay. You will have to wire in a relay and you will have to have something external to produce the flash. You will not be able to add any additional LEDs to the led that comes with the alarm. You would burn out the output.

Ah yes sir. The secret plan was to have the alarm wired to a secondary AGM BATT THAT HAS A SMART isolation solenoid that will allow charging as needed when the truck is running. All positive and grounds will be fused as a fool proof preventive measure. Wont be taking out the alarm by shorting it. I agree with the addition of a relay which is one thing I was on edge about as I am not sure of the output voltage of the led, but now that you mention that output I shouldn't have much of an issue getting that squared away. Edit: read what you said again not going to work. So I'll need to figure out if the blinking led voltage is enough to run the relay. In lue of the K.I.S.S. method thatsall I have in mind. Mainly due to the different pulses it has when armed and after the alarm has been triggered.

You should take the hood pull cable and move it elsewhere. That could slowdown someone trying to cut the battery cable.Steve G