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564T Hornet Clearing Memory Issue


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justkillin_time 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: March 04, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: March 08, 2006 at 1:41 AM / IP Logged  

Hey guys. I've spent a couple hours here alone trying to figure out my problem. It's probably really simple and I've just been staring at it for too long.

Car:

98 Honda Accord Coupe
Alarm:
DEI Hornet 564T
Problem:
The remote as well as the brain do not reset after the car has been 'tampered' with. According to the manual:
"The security system will retain this information in its memory and chirp four or five times each time it is disarmed, until the next time that the ignition is turned on."
When I turn on the vehicle or just turn the key to the on/acc the system does not clear the warning
I have the 12V constant right off of the battery
I have the shock sensor completely removed
I have tested my door trigger input
(note: when the brain is not connected and the door is opened the blk/white is @ 0v. However with the brain plugged in I receive an ~ .6v constant - could this be the culprit?)
The alarm arms and disarms just fine. If I arm the vehicle, unlock the vehicle and open the door it triggers the alarm. So it all appears to be wired correctly except I having the issue of the brain not clearing it's memory.
I had the shock sensor plugged in originally and it appears to be functioning correctly even though the wording/diagram is a bit fuzzy to me. With the sensor connected, if I tap the sensor, the alarm goes off. So that appears to be working. I do question my wiring of it as well though.
Out of the box the shock sensor has:

GRN wire that loops back into the BLU wire

BLK
RD

The other end:

GRN wire that is free - (I believe this is for connecting to a separate dual stage shock sensor)
BLU
BLK
RD

What I have taken from the directions and interpreted is:

The green looped wire i have snipped, twisted together and added a connector. I then connected the blue multiplexed input from the primary harness to this GRN/BLU combo. I taped off the extra green from the other end. Not sure which end goes into the shock sensor, shouldn't matter?

I felt by removing the shock sensor altogether that I could eliminate part of the equation. However, I could see how the module may need it to check all zones before it can go back to an 'OK' status.

If you need any other information, just let me know. Please don't tear me apart on this, I like to do things myself rather then pay someone and never know how the stuff really works. Any help is greatly appreciated.

mad550 
Copper - Posts: 201
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 23, 2006
Location: Australia
Posted: March 08, 2006 at 2:21 AM / IP Logged  
Is the IGN sense hooked up ok? Dry solder joint? And does it show 12v while cranking? Don't worry about the shock sensor dosen't matter which way it is thats why there is a loop at one end,  no need to hook any other wire from sensor to alarm brain so best idea to disconnect it.
WOW Sight and Sound
Maroochydore
Nothing is impossible!
Do it right the first time or don't do it at all.
justkillin_time 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: March 04, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: March 08, 2006 at 2:31 AM / IP Logged  

Now that I'm thinking about it, one of the wires that I haven't hooked up that I had doubts about is an Orange wire, -500ma Armed Output. Quite honestly I have no idea what to do with this. In the manual it states that it may be wired to an optional DEI 8618 starter kill relay - so I taped it off, assuming it was not needed for my application.

I didn't dry solder joint it, it's connected correctly to the battery post with a 15amp fuse in between.

I haven't actually tested the voltage while cranking. Should it fluctuate?

I have not connected the following wires either:

WHITE/ Blue - remote start -activation input (i won't be doing the remote start for the time being)
BLACK/ White -200ma domelight supervision output - not needed
Violet - + door trigger, I used the green wire instead
RED / White - intended for secondary feature ie trunk release etc.

Also this vehicle does not have a factory anti-theft system and the car model is an LX

Thanks!

Dave

mad550 
Copper - Posts: 201
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 23, 2006
Location: Australia
Posted: March 08, 2006 at 2:39 AM / IP Logged  

Its cool only need orange wire for starter kill every thing sounds right,  but the module uses the ign sense to reset sounds maybe faulty internally maybe try another module to be sure,  yeah voltage should drop while cranking but not dissappear.

Dwayne

WOW Sight and Sound
Maroochydore
Nothing is impossible!
Do it right the first time or don't do it at all.
justkillin_time 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: March 04, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: March 08, 2006 at 3:01 AM / IP Logged  

Cool. I will double check the voltage on my constant. I really feel that it's just a wiring issue and that the module itself is fine, well at least that's what I want to believe!

Note: I didn't connect to the IGN mainly due to the fact that I'm not excited about cutting into the IGN wiring. Also when I metered it, it went from 12v to ~ 14+. I would believe that I would want what you described above, a drop in in voltage.

Thanks for you help,

Dave

mad550 
Copper - Posts: 201
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 23, 2006
Location: Australia
Posted: March 08, 2006 at 3:06 AM / IP Logged  
Thats normal as the alt starts charging but the yellow wire must be connected to IGN for the mem reset.
WOW Sight and Sound
Maroochydore
Nothing is impossible!
Do it right the first time or don't do it at all.
justkillin_time 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: March 04, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: March 08, 2006 at 3:17 AM / IP Logged  
That makes sense. The yellow wire you speak of, are you talking about the wire from the car? For my vehicle that would be the ACCESSORY /HEATER blower, which is in fact part of the IGN harness. I believe I tested that as well but it shows a 0v w/o the key and 12v once turned to 'ON'.
There is a Yellow wire located on my Remote Start Ribbon harness. However, I have not paid much attention to it since I was not planning on installing the remote start feature yet. That plugs directly into the Primary harness then into the Heavy gauge relay.
I really appreciate your patience with this. I can't wait to get this system operating correctly.
Dave
mad550 
Copper - Posts: 201
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 23, 2006
Location: Australia
Posted: March 08, 2006 at 3:39 AM / IP Logged  

The yellow wire from the alarm is IGN sense and MUST be connected in order for the alarm to know when the car is running or not I think the factory IGN wire is BLACK / YELLOW or BLACK/ White check with a test light.  Ignition harness is safe to probe they will be wrapped in thick black plastic there should be 5 thick wires inside.  You still need to hook up remote start wiring just leave it disabled for now.

Dwayne

WOW Sight and Sound
Maroochydore
Nothing is impossible!
Do it right the first time or don't do it at all.
justkillin_time 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: March 04, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: March 08, 2006 at 3:52 AM / IP Logged  

Hmm. Problem with that is the yellow wire from the alarm is part of a ribbon that connects the brain to the remote start module itself. The remote start module then connects to the starter, IGN, etc.

here's a link to my actual installation manual:
http://directechs.com/guides/manuals/ig/hornet/N564T_01-05.pdf
If you scroll to page 14, that is where it begins to talk about the primary harness and it's use. If you can help make sense out of it, I will be one happy guy. Since there is the WHITE/ blue remote start activation input that is part of the primary that I did not connect since I had not planned on installing the remote start feature, but that could be my 'yellow' wire?
Now I know why some shops charge $150+ for an install! But if I didn't tackle this myself, I would never appreciate it either!
Thanks again in advance!

Dave

justkillin_time 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: March 04, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: March 08, 2006 at 3:57 AM / IP Logged  

Also, an interesting side note: The 564T that I have, it specifically covers a section talking about how the car can in fact be armed while running. Not just doors locked and engine remotely started, but you can get in, start the car and arm the car. That's some paranoia for ya! So there may be an absense of the yellow wire due to this 'feature'

Dave

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