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What is a suitable sub&amp for me?


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vbel 
Copper - Posts: 246
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 15, 2004
Location: Canada
Posted: September 09, 2004 at 2:24 PM / IP Logged  
I want to put a sub in my system and I need some recommendations of a sub and an amp, which will provide juice to the sub. The reason for my decision is because I have a loud exhaust and I have to turn it up to hear the music. I already have 4 speakers amped and it is all great, but with volume up, I have to turn down the bass with eq, 'cause it rattles and the bass becomes kind of sloppy/dull. So what I need is something that can play loud enough for me, to overcome the exhaust noise, mostly while driving on the highway. I'm looking primarily for SQ, but it has to be loud enough too.
I'm thinking of a 300 rms, 10 inch, 4 ohm sub in a sealed box. I read it has better SQ than larger subs and it will also save trunk space. A lot of people say Alpine Type R is very good...so it is one of my choices. What else is good out there? I understand that a lot of them are moreless equally good, so I just want to see a list that will do me good and from there I will chose based on price and looks.
Which amp? I already have a Phoenix Gold Octane R 75x4 amp in the trunk. I could get a similiar mono PG amp to match the other amp or get something else that you recommend.
And do you think 300 rms is enough? I don't wanna buy something to find out later on that I need more watts to make it as loud as I need.
stevdart 
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Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: September 09, 2004 at 3:07 PM / IP Logged  

SQ is out of the question with a loud exhaust.  The tone of the muffler wipes out any quality you hope to get with your sub music.  Use a quiet car for SQ.  What you need is extra power to overcome all the noises your car makes.  Running a sub at 4 ohms with a loud car is a waste of amplifier, IMO.  I run at 4 ohms, but my car is quiet.  Look for a minimum of 500 watts at 2 ohms into either one or two subs that will match or exceed that power.

You also need to upgrade the damping in the car, the sheet metal is rattling.  Amps are easy to find now for that power range, and a class D mono amp would suit your purpose.  If you listen to subs for comparison...have your car right there with the tailpipe screaming so you can hear the sound in a real-life situation!

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
vbel 
Copper - Posts: 246
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 15, 2004
Location: Canada
Posted: September 09, 2004 at 3:23 PM / IP Logged  
500 watts...would I need to upgrade my power sources to push 500 watts + 300 watts in my car? It's a 2000 Prelude.
It's not the sheet metal that's rattling, but door panels, rear speaker covers (I removed them now) and my right rear speaker, because for some reason it doesn't seem to be mounted strong enough.
stevdart 
Platinum - Posts: 5,816
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Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: September 09, 2004 at 3:42 PM / IP Logged  
Possibly not.  Some cars need an upgrade when any amp is installed, others will power a lot of extra stuff and not show any signs of suffering.  You can get a sub amp with a remote adjustment knob, and keep it turned down some most of the time.  Your actual wattage would normally be far less than 500...it would just be that high for headroom.  And a mono amp is 90% efficient compared to the stereo amp at 55%, so the power consumption is less for power provided.  Running it at a 2 ohm load makes the amp produce more current, but the consumption of power from the car remains the same as it would be running it at a 4 ohm load.  You just would have to load it up and see.  Sometimes just a reconnection of grounds under the hood or an upgrade in those wires will do the trick.
Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
Francious70 
Silver - Posts: 629
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Joined: July 26, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: September 09, 2004 at 3:55 PM / IP Logged  
What I would reccomend isL
1 Infinity Kappa Perfect 12.1D parallel for 2 ohms
1 Sealed enclosure
1 PG Xenon 400.1
Should give you plenty of sound for your need. Both the amp and sub are know for good SQ, so you should likey likey.
Paul
vbel 
Copper - Posts: 246
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 15, 2004
Location: Canada
Posted: September 09, 2004 at 4:43 PM / IP Logged  
I like what you suggested. For the 400.1 amp, it produces 400 rms watts at how many ohms?
Francious70 
Silver - Posts: 629
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Joined: July 26, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: September 09, 2004 at 10:20 PM / IP Logged  
The PG 400.1 produces 400RMS @ 2 I think. I could be worng though, I would check their website. They have forums there, so you could ask someone there.
Paul
vbel 
Copper - Posts: 246
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 15, 2004
Location: Canada
Posted: September 10, 2004 at 12:08 AM / IP Logged  
I checked the site and it says from 1 to 4 ohm and somehow it automatically selects the right amount of ohms. I hope it's not 400 watts at 1 ohm though...
kfr01 
Gold - Posts: 2,121
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Joined: April 30, 2003
Posted: September 10, 2004 at 12:14 AM / IP Logged  

Actually, the sheet metal vibrating from the road is probably causing most of the other noises you're hearing.  You can deaden those vibrations, the noises they are causing, and muffle the sound from the exhaust with deadening material.  

I also drive a very loud car and doing the doors and trunk helped quite a bit.  I plan to do more when I get the time.  Check out raamaudio.com, b-quiet.com brown bread, and dynamat xtreme bulk pack deals on ebay. 

In fact, now that I'm talking I'm going to go ahead and disagree with stevdart on this one.  Pros, as always, please correct me if I'm wrong on this.  Say our friend here wants to listen to his music at 90db with a small 300 watt 10" sub system.  He spends some time matching his gains, etc. and his mids, highs, and sub all play well matched around 90db.  Say that they are all playing well within their limits.  Add in the car with the loud exhaust.  The muffler kills some of the bass/midbass.  Short of any upgrades he has two options as I see it:   turn everything up with the volume control when it gets loud or keep the volume / gain up on the bass all the time to compensate for when the muffler is being loud.  If he does either of these two things and his sub amp / subwoofer are still well within their capable playing levels, what good will an extra 200 watts do?  Maybe I totally don't understand, but as long as his amp can push his sub as loud as he wants with room to spare, what is the point of throwing more watts in the trunk?  Why put the extra watts back there? 

New Project: 2003 Pathfinder
chevyman26 
Copper - Posts: 227
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 14, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: September 10, 2004 at 1:10 AM / IP Logged  

Sorry, but I also have to disagree with stevdart. Sure the exhaust is going to interfere with the bass notes a bit, it really isn't that bad. I have a 97 Full size chev. with true dual exhaust with dual cats and turbo tube mufflers (just barely street legal) and I am only running 250 watts to my sub under the back seat, and it's plenty loud. I see that kfr01's system is Extremely similar to mine, so you know what I'm talkin'  about.  Just look for a very efficient sub in the correct size enclosure with a good quality amp, and you should be alright.

As far as the PG amp - I haven't looked it up, but it sounds like it has a regulated power suppy, meaning that it will produce the same power no matter what you hook to it (well, you know, within it's limits). There's more to it than that, but that's the basic gist of it. Some other amps with regulated supplies that come to mind are JL Audio slash series, some Memphis, .....

You'd better get me out of this lord... or else you'll have me to deal with. -- Hunter S. Thompson "F.A.L.I.L.V."
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