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hornet 570t, 2006 ford escape


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terrytcl 
Member - Posts: 19
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Joined: September 28, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 14, 2008 at 7:06 PM / IP Logged  

All done installing a Hornet 570T system in a 2006 Ford Escape.

Also using a 29402 bypass module.

I have been using the wiring info from here https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~91795

i haven't hooked up the lock/unlock lines from the 570t, because it seems that the OEM remote for keyless entry still works while the car is running.

i have tested my connection and the car starts up and only runs for 10 seconds.  i verified that i have the right hookup for the tach wire.

i tried to teach the 570t to run on tach mode, but it still only runs for 10 seconds.

i'm not sure if it's due to the fact that i'm not 100% certain if i have the security disarm line correctly hooked up.  i have it going to a blue/lt green line in the driver side kick panel.  i'm sending a ground signal to it when the remote start is activated.  i also do not have the keysense line hooked up as someone mentioned that it would work without it.  i tested the car with the key in the cylinder and still only runs for 10 seconds.

so, is the 570t not running correctly in tach mode?  or is it because i don't have the factory alarm disabled properly.

here are some pictures of my work so far.   also, the instructions talk about the SJB.  where is it?  is it the connections to the back of the fuse/relay (SJB) unit?  because the connector to the front of the SJB does not have the wires as listed in the instructions.

hornet 570t, 2006 ford escape -- posted image.

connection showing that i've tapped the tach wire of the spark coil.

hornet 570t, 2006 ford escape -- posted image.

here's the picture of the passenger side panel for the SJB...  there's only one connector to it.

hornet 570t, 2006 ford escape -- posted image.

chriswallace187 
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Joined: March 11, 2002
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 14, 2008 at 11:42 PM / IP Logged  
If you're using a t-tap for your tach connection too, that may be the reason that it's only running for 10 seconds. I've fixed plenty of other installers' jobs which had problems with that method.
I strongly suggest using a Scotchlok, butt connector, or solder if you're having problems there. Also make sure you've connected to the wire color which is NOT shared with the adjacent coil. 10 seconds running pretty much rules out a problem with the immobilizer or the factory alarm.
Also as far as the SJB - I recently did an '06 Mariner(basically the same car) and had to remove the center console to get at all the wires. There are (I think) 3 connectors on the back side and 2 on the front.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
terrytcl 
Member - Posts: 19
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Joined: September 28, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 15, 2008 at 11:33 AM / IP Logged  

thanks for the info chris.

so, it sounds like my problem is due to the tach wire not being sound and not the factory alarm system.

i don't think i need to get to the sjb unit as all of my wires are hooked up.

i'll double check the tach wire and try again.

thanks

terrytcl 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: September 28, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 15, 2008 at 3:37 PM / IP Logged  

chris, one question

how do you remove that center console?  i tried everything.

found 11 screws total (4 in the front both sides, 2 middle both sides, and 4 in the compartment under the felt pad).

just out of curiosity, what wires did you go after in the SJB?

chriswallace187 
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Posted: December 15, 2008 at 4:33 PM / IP Logged  
To remove the center console, if I remember right(I should since it was only last week):
The trim ring immediately around the shifter came up first. Then the larger trim piece with the cupholders(obviously the storage door was open to do this, and the piece was just clipped in). That required shifter in D, e-brake fully up, and power outlet disconnected.
After that there was 1 screw on either side in front under the main dash(these 2 were concealed by the above trim panel), 1 screw on either side at the very front down by the floor, 1 on either side about halfway back the length of the console, and 1 on either side at the very back.
I also removed the 4 underneath the felt pad; however I don't think they were necessary. I think if the 8 I listed above are out then the whole console just slides back, up, and out.
Obviously you can get a ton of wires at the SJB - I think I tagged the factory arm/disarm, driver's unlock motor lead(for priority unlocking), door trigger/dome supervision, and brake. I didn't bother with the resistance lock wire since the arm/disarm will operate the doors even with the engine on(unlock takes 2 pulses).
Also the (-) parking lights and horn I just connected at the column because they were easier to wire into there(the harnesses they're in at the SJB are the ones that go upward).
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
terrytcl 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: September 28, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 15, 2008 at 5:11 PM / IP Logged  

thanks again for your response.

does the escape have any tach wire connections inside the cabin?  i noticed that maybe the engine control unit (ecu) is located in the middle behind the center console? 

i'm going to try fixing the tach wire tonight.  and maybe get the center console apart to hook up the right wires at the sjb.

thanks

chriswallace187 
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Posted: December 15, 2008 at 9:14 PM / IP Logged  
I don't believe there's an inside tach connection.
Also not sure, but I believe the engine ECU is actually mounted through the firewall with connectors on the underhood side of it.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
terrytcl 
Member - Posts: 19
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Joined: September 28, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 30, 2008 at 10:29 PM / IP Logged  

can't believe it, but still having problems with this car...

i got it to work for a couple times, but then soldered the tach pickup wire... and then it went back to the 10 second running.

i've checked signal at the other end and i get 600-800mV AC. 

this is killing me.    i think i'm going to go back and try a differenet coil wire. 

anyone having similar problems with an escape? 

terrytcl 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: September 28, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 31, 2008 at 12:01 AM / IP Logged  

i'm looking at the 2006 wiring diagram.

it says to pick up the 12 volt constant at the battery, but if you look in the ignition harness, there's a constant 12 volt wire there.

any reason why to go to the battery instead of the wire harness?    shouldn't current drawn for the ignition and accessory wires be from that 12 volt constant wire in the harness?  why go to the battery?

terrytcl 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: September 28, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 31, 2008 at 12:03 AM / IP Logged  

tried a different tach wire, and still not working.

the unit will not learn to run on tach instead of voltage level.

hornet 570t, 2006 ford escape -- posted image.

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