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02 honda civic, scytek galaxy 5100rs


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alscrx 
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Member spacespace
Joined: March 30, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 26, 2008 at 9:35 PM / IP Logged  

So i noticed on my omega bypass for my 02 civic that there is a wire that says (-) Ground when running(status)

Does that get connected to the remote start unit which is an add on that i am installing now, Or the audiovox pursuit alarm itself that was installled awhile back?

Also how do i find this WIRE on the alarm or remote start unit since they are not labeled "ground when running or status"?????

chriswallace187 
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Posted: December 26, 2008 at 10:50 PM / IP Logged  
The GWR input to the bypass would go to the remote starter. What brand/model remote starter is it?
Other names would be (-) ignition 3, (-) out while active, but the basic idea is a wire which outputs ground the entire time that the remote start has the car's ignition turned on.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
alscrx 
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Joined: March 30, 2005
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Posted: December 26, 2008 at 10:59 PM / IP Logged  

Ok well since i had an audiovox alarm/keyless unit i went with the audiovox add on AS-9075A

I see it has a light blue wire which says

300ma ground output,ignition3 control,relay required.

But i though that wire had to be connected to the alarms shock sensor to shunt it while remote starting. It said to hook up like this. #86 to light blue wire #85 to battery #30 to one end of cut shock sensor wire,#87A to other end of cut shock sensor wire.

What should i do? Also if the shock sensor has 3 wires, which wire do i cut?

chriswallace187 
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Posted: December 26, 2008 at 11:56 PM / IP Logged  
That wire does have to fulfill both functions. Unless - does that Audiovox add-on have the 2-wire(red and black) yellow "transponder bypass" connector? If it does, the black wire will fulfill the GWR function just fine, and you could use the red for constant power to the bypass if you wish.
If your RS doesn't have that plug, just the lt. blue "ign. 3", then you'll have to use the ign. 3 to activate the bypass module's GWR as well as the alarm's sensor shunt.
I'd suggest doing this through a relay, since I think that the ign. 3 probably doesn't put out enough current to do both functions directly - although Chris Luongo or someone else who does a lot of Audiovox might be able to verify otherwise. I've done non-Audiovox remote starters using one GWR output for bypass activation and alarm sensor shunt, and they didn't work consistently without the relay.
If you do use a relay, wire as follows:
85 - lt. blue from add-on unit.
86 - 12V constant fused
87 - ground
30 - bypass module's GWR input and alarm's sensor shunt input. I would probably diode isolate these outputs as well.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
tedmond 
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Posted: December 27, 2008 at 7:51 AM / IP Logged  
hey chris, dont ignition 3 ouputs or any output on a rs unit often allow anywhere from 200 - 500 ma outputs? if so, shouldnt that be sufficiant for powereing a bypass module? i understand that some arent meant for large current draw( i myself use relays for ign3 output or status when powering bypass, defroster, and other little things) btw, have you ever burnt out an ouput on a unit,
alscrx 
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Member spacespace
Joined: March 30, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 27, 2008 at 10:42 AM / IP Logged  

Thanks chris, If i follow that relay diagram you posted, How would i connect the shock sensor to it?

I though i was supposed to cut one of the 4 shock sensor wires and connect each end to a different spot on the relay. is this correct?

Which sensor wire do i cut and connect to relay?  Blue,green,red or black?

How do i diode isolate these?

alscrx 
Member - Posts: 39
Member spacespace
Joined: March 30, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 27, 2008 at 10:59 AM / IP Logged  

Also, the pursuit pro9642 alarm has a channel 3 on the remote and keychain. I want to use this button to activate the remote start.

In the install manual it states: Dark blue wire-delayed 300Ma pulsed output/channel 3

The dark blue wire pulses to ground via an independent RF channel from the keychain transmitter. This is a transistorized, low current output and should only be used to drive an external relay coil. WARNING: Connecting the dark blue wire to the high current switched output of trunk release circuits and some remote start trigger inputs will damage the control module.

Connect the dark blue wire to terminal 86 of the 30A automotive relay and wire the remaining relay contacts to perform the selected function of channel 3.

That is what the manual says about that wire. Does this sound correct? How would i finish wiring that relay to make the keychain channel 3 operate the remote start?

alscrx 
Member - Posts: 39
Member spacespace
Joined: March 30, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 27, 2008 at 11:46 AM / IP Logged  

There is another wire i found on the alarm diagram that says it can be used for an alternate channel 3 output.

It says its activated by a double push on the keychain remote. Also says output is active for 1 second.

i think using the double push option button on the keychain is better for remote start for safety reasons.

If i use the option in the post before this one, A single push of the option button would cause the car to start which can be accidental if pressed while in ones pocket or purse. So is it ok to use the Dark blue wire with black trace even though the output is active for 1 second?

Manual states its a 300Ma output low current. Does the add on remote start unit input trigger pull more than this 300ma? Should i use a relay to be safe? HOW would i wire this relay?

Thanks for the help guys, After i figure out those 2 problems(Bypass wire GWR/sensor shunt AND the remote channel 3 wiring)  i can finally install this thing already!

chriswallace187 
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Posted: December 27, 2008 at 12:11 PM / IP Logged  
tedmond wrote:
hey chris, dont ignition 3 ouputs or any output on a rs unit often allow anywhere from 200 - 500 ma outputs? if so, shouldnt that be sufficiant for powereing a bypass module? i understand that some arent meant for large current draw( i myself use relays for ign3 output or status when powering bypass, defroster, and other little things) btw, have you ever burnt out an ouput on a unit,
It would be sufficient if it were powering a bypass module alone; but I've done this on a DEI(and I know this is Audiovox we're talking here), in which case the status out is used to ground the blue instant trigger wire, and this makes the alarm ignore the shock sensor until the ground is removed(i.e. after the remote start shuts down). The current from a DEI status output was never sufficient to consistently activate a bypass module AND that "sensor shunt".
In this case though if interrupting a shock sensor wire with a relay instead of grounding the sensor shunt input on the alarm, that ignition 3 would probably be sufficiently high current. Again, I'm really hoping someone who's done a bunch of Audiovox alarms will chime in(I've done plenty of their RS and keyless but no alarms lately).
I've never personally burnt out a transistorized output. Usually I notice when they aren't doing what they're supposed to and either connect them to a relay or some other solution.
However I do remember a case when I worked at Circuit City, where one of the installers for what reason I can't imagine connected the status output from a Valet remote start directly to the car's accessory wire. Worse yet, it actually left the install bay that way.
Since electricity follows the path of least resistance and will go wherever it's not switched off, the clock/radio/blower or whatever else was on that accessory wire naturally drew positive current through the transistors inside the Valet as much as it could, and the status output wouldn't activate anything when I tried to fix it. I ended up connecting the RS properly and just using the defogger output(programmable as 2nd status).
Alscrx, to be honest I'm not sure what wire you'd want to interrupt. I'm trying to get others who do more Audiovox in on this thread. I've gotta get going now but will post more later on this.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
alscrx 
Member - Posts: 39
Member spacespace
Joined: March 30, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 28, 2008 at 2:18 PM / IP Logged  
Need help!
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