2000 nissian sentra remote start

Hello everyone new member here, let me assure you before making this post I did alot of searching (gained alot of new info)

Ok I am planning on installing a remote start in a 2000 nissan sentra GXE, auto, keyless entry, no alarm system.

Here is some info I got from searching on here:

I'm 110% certain I have a chip in my key. Not all 2000-2006 Sentras were equipped with the Immobilizer system. The base models with the 1.8 engine didn't have it and neither did the base 2.0 models IIRC. My 2.0 model is the "sporty" version for the 2000-2001 line up and it did come with immobilizer as part of the sports package.

I am just looking to install a basic 1-way remote start system (2 way if the price is right). Dont need anything like an alarm or keyless entry (I could just continue using the keyless entry from my original fob)

Ok I have a 1.8L engine so I presume I dont have an immobilizer system. Which means I dont need a bypass system, correct ?

I have installed things such as aftermarket CD players, subs, speakers, etc.... I know installing a remote starter is harder than installing an aftermarket CD player, that is why I have came here for guidance.

I have looked at the factory wiring diagram on here and know what all the color wires are, but where are they located ?

Is installing a remote starter as easy as just connecting the right wires together (which would be info gained from the remote starters manual) ?

Would systems like these be efficient for what I am looking to do? If these are not good any suggestions?

http://cgi./Scytek-G40RS-Auto-Remote-Car-Starter_W0QQitemZ140352368875QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item20ada730eb

http:////NEW-Remote-Start-Ready-Remote-Keyless-Entry-DEI-24923_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2557c7ef43QQitemZ160386510659QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

	Battery		WHITE/ RED		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Ignition 1		BLACK/ RED		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Ignition 2		BLACK / YELLOW		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Accessory 1		WHITE		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Starter 1		BLACK/ WHITE		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Anti-Theft Type		NISSAN NVIS® VEHICLE IMMOBILIZER
	Anti-Theft Descript		THE KEY SENDS AN RF SIGNAL TO THE BCM MODULE THROUGH AN ANTENNA LOCATED AROUND THE IGNITION CYLINDER
	Tachometer		RED		(-)		AT IGNITION COIL
	Speed Sense		VIOLET/RED		(AC)		IN HARNESS UNDER CENTER CONSOLE
	Parking Lights		RED / BLUE		(+)		AT VEHICLE FUSE PANEL
	Brake Lights		RED / GREEN		(+)		AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
	Reverse Lights		GREEN/ YELLOW		(+)		IN HARNESS IN DRIVER KICKPANEL TO REAR

Also...Just to make sure you do NOT need to add keyless...Start the vehicle and see if the factory fobs unlock/lock the doors...On some vehicles the factory keyless does not work when engine is started...The goal is to connect the wires "right"... : ) Also...keyless is pretty standard on most units...and is nice to have all controls on one remote...Instead of using one remote to start and one to unlock...! I am really not familiar with scytek...But havent heard anything bad...Code...Auto-Page...Ultra Start...D.E.I....etc...arfe solid units... Do you have the tools required to do the install...Have you ever soldered...Do you own a DMM...? Do you have an all metal key...If not...is the plastic portion pretty thick or thin...? 2-ways are nice and gives you the ability to have a visual confirmation that the vehicle is running...As opposed to looking out the window to see the parking lights are on or smoke from tailpipe...!

tommy... wrote: Battery WHITE/ RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS Ignition 1 BLACK/ RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS Ignition 2 BLACK / YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS Accessory 1 WHITE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS Starter 1 BLACK/ WHITE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS Anti-Theft Type NISSAN NVIS® VEHICLE IMMOBILIZER Anti-Theft Descript THE KEY SENDS AN RF SIGNAL TO THE BCM MODULE THROUGH AN ANTENNA LOCATED AROUND THE IGNITION CYLINDER Tachometer RED (-) AT IGNITION COIL Speed Sense VIOLET/RED (AC) IN HARNESS UNDER CENTER CONSOLE Parking Lights RED / BLUE (+) AT VEHICLE FUSE PANEL Brake Lights RED / GREEN (+) AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL Reverse Lights GREEN/ YELLOW (+) IN HARNESS IN DRIVER KICKPANEL TO REAR Also...Just to make sure you do NOT need to add keyless...Start the vehicle and see if the factory fobs unlock/lock the doors...On some vehicles the factory keyless does not work when engine is started...The goal is to connect the wires "right"... : ) Also...keyless is pretty standard on most units...and is nice to have all controls on one remote...Instead of using one remote to start and one to unlock...! I am really not familiar with scytek...But havent heard anything bad...Code...Auto-Page...Ultra Start...D.E.I....etc...arfe solid units... Do you have the tools required to do the install...Have you ever soldered...Do you own a DMM...? Do you have an all metal key...If not...is the plastic portion pretty thick or thin...? 2-ways are nice and gives you the ability to have a visual confirmation that the vehicle is running...As opposed to looking out the window to see the parking lights are on or smoke from tailpipe...!

Let me first thank you for the reply. I just checked the keyless entry still works with the car running (having two fobs will not bother me). On my key the plastic party is pretty thin, not paper thin though. On that note couldn't I go to walmart and have a spare all metal key made and see if that starts the car? If it does start the car I dont need a bypass and if it does not start then I do need the bypass, correct? About the soldering, I know it is preferred but is it a must? Wouldn't a product like posi-tap work, or is the soldering for something besides connecting the wires together? You will have to excuse my ignorance but I am new to this and really not sure what a DMM is. 

P.S. A feature I forgot to add is that I would need it to have a timer, is that a safety feature in all of the remote starters, or is that one of the things where if it isn't listed it isn't included ?

Sorry about that didn't really know what DMM meant. Yes I have a digital multimeter. Also this car has a tach in the dash, would I still have to run the wire out to the coil under the hood ? Sorry for all the questions just want to have all this stuff worked out in my head before I purchase the RS unit.

Ok, I read posts and reviews on here and felt confident that ultra start was a good brand. So I purchased an ultra start G11-XR unit.

I know soldering is preferred for installation, but wouldn't a product like posi-tap (involves no cutting) work? Not confident with soldering and really dont want to risk it. I have been reading the install and owners guide for the past few hours, looks pretty straight forward. I just have to match up the g11-xr wires to the correct wires on my nissan sentra, correct ?

1.  Check to see if you need a bypass first.  A plain key from WalMart is a good test without taking anything apart. 

2.  The perferred install method of professional installers is soldering.  You don't want any cars coming back with problems.  Any wires going to the engine bay should be soldered, like the Tach wire, due to moisture and vibration. 

3.  Always test and verify the wires you are going to attach to.  The guides are nice but not always correct.  Using a DMM protects the cars computer circuits ( doesn't draw current like test lights ).

4.  If you need the bypass, mate the R/S and bypass prior to install.  Usually you need +12 volts, ground, GWR from the R/S to the bypass.

5.  Yes, you will have to remove some dash trim pieces to access the cars wires.  Another source for wiring info is:  http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/   Not listed above are your Power Lock & UnLock wires.  The Ultra Start G11-XR supports these outputs so you might as well hook them up.  It will do the power trunk release too, if your car has that feature.

6.  Your car has 2 IGN wires.  You will need to program the G11-XR for this.  Menu 2 Option 1 set to 2nd IGN ( one flash).

7.  There will be unused wires on the G11-XR.  You don't need Diesel Wait to Start, Re-Arm, Dis-Arm, and Negative Parking Light.  Horn is optional but nice.  I would connect the Tach wire and run in Tach mode.  It's much more reliable.  All the other wires get connected.  (Except the Red wire on the door lock harness.)

8.  Plan on spending 6 hours doing the install.  Try to keep all the wires neat.  Buy some tie wraps.  Use 3M Scotch Super 33+ Electric tape. 

Take you time and have fun.

Ok let me first thank everyone for your responses, without you help I wouldn't even be attempting this.

Let me put how I think this will be wired and let me know how it looks, I will list the ones I know for sure first:

Trunk release output (-) RED / white ------> Trunk release (-) Red @ hatch relase switch

Now below are the ones I have questions about:

I have included pictures so it would be easier to help :)

If there is anything else you need me to include please just ask. I dont want you to have to go look at the wiring diagrams or anything so if you need some other wiring diagram just let me know and I will go look it up and paste it here.

Looks good so far.  Now the fun begins...

I checked 4 sources and got differences on each one.  All having to do with the Start, IGN and ACC wires.  This is where your DMM comes in.

All sources say WHITE/ Red is Battery.  There might be two wires there, both Whire/Red, or only one thick wire.  Should show constant +12v.  Hook up both Red heavy gauge wires from R/S here. (remove fuses first)

Bulldog shows only one IGN, BLACK/ Red but AudioVox shows 2 IGNs, BLACK/ Red and BLACK / YELLOW, this site and Omega shows 2, BLACK/ Red & White.  Test your car with the DMM.  IGN is off with key out and on with key in Run & start position.  BLACK/ Red is a good bet and if there is another it should test the same.

For the Starter wire, Bulldog shows 2, BLACK/ White & BLACK / YELLOW.  This site agrees but Audiovox shows only the BLACK/ White wire (but they have power going to the BLACK / YELLOW  as IGN2.)  Omega only lists one Starter wire, BLACK/ White.  When tested, the Starter wire(s) will only show +12v with the key in the start position.

Finally for the ACC wires Bulldog lists 2, White and WHITE/ Blue.  Audiovox shows only 1, the White.  This site shows only 1, the WHITE/ Blue (but lists the White as IGN2) and Omega agrees.  ACC should test as +12v with Ignition switch On but 0v in the Start and Off positions.

Test it.  The results will tell use how to config the heavy gauge White wire coming from the Ultra Start (it can be IGN, ACC or Start).  Additionally you might need to buy some +12v Bosch style relays to power up the extra wires.

Anything on the immobilizer  yet?