diy of viper 5901

I just bought a VIPER 5901, and I plan to self install this in a 1995 BMW 328i (Automatic). I have done some 12v electronics before, and have basic electronics know-how. I can solder & know how to operate a DMM. ---------------------------------------------- I have read others threads about people using "interface" modules which allows their VIPER unit to communicate through the cars computer in order to operate windows and door locks. I cannot however find a plug'n'play interface for my car. I know my car has a central body electronics unit, but I cannot find an interface for my car. Is there one available for my car? ---------------------------------------------- I wish to have the VIPER close all windows/sunroof when the alarm is armed. I was planning to have an AUX channel operate windows too. Will I need the DEI 530T window automation system to have it operate my windows? ---------------------------------------------- I've also read that BMW's require a positive (+) pulse to both open and unlock doors. The VIPER install diagram indicates that both lock/unlock outputs are a negative (-). Will I need to wire in some relays to have the door locks function properly? ---------------------------------------------- I understand that for the remote start feature I will also need to purchase the "Universal Transponder Anti-Theft Bypass 556UW", as my car key contains a coded chip. correct? I plan to tackle this wiring 1 step at a time, and I've prioritized my objectives accordingly: 1. Remote locking & alarm 2. Comfort feature for windows 3. Remote Starter. Is there any other advice or guides that you guys can help me with? I've been to bulldog security & have a few wiring diagrams for my car from a maintenance manual. Thanks in advance.

Here is the quick install guide I'm stuck with (until the seller gets back to me on a specific technical sheet for my car).

Sorry the BMW King has been watching TV all night, Tottenham won thank goodness, hat trick for Defoe so I will answer this one for you tomorrow. One question though. Can I assume UK spec (or same as, i.e. no factory alarm, amber indicators, right hand drive and do your windows and roof (if fitted) close when you turn the door key to lock and hold the position in the driver's door, also have you still got one touch on the window switches? Plug and play Ha Ha, you're looking at about 40 solder joints and at least 5 1N4004 diodes and 1 relay if you want window/roof close on a separate button.

Ahh... well fair enough. I shall buy a cordless soldering iron then. Bugger doing 40 joints with that stupid lead dragging through the car. I'm in Australia, so yes, my car is Euro spec (glass headlights, RHD, Amber corners, no factory alarm). My car did have a dealer installed alarm (which crapped out), which is why I am installing the 5901. The dealership quoted me over $400 for a replacement... The viper didn't even cost that much with postage. My windows both have one-touch down, but the drivers side is the only one with the one-touch up feature. I do believe my car will close all windows and sunroof via key in the door lock - I will check to make sure though. Thanks for all the help guys, it is greatly appreciated. :)

Edit: I'm not sure if the one-touch is supposed to work both up and down on the passenger window. I am having the infamous window inching problem on that window, so I will be trying to repair that when I pull everything apart as well.

Here we go Scotty:- Extra parts required: 556U to by-pass the factory transponder immobiliser. 451M relay module OR 2 relays (watch this space t&t, I'll teach you colonials how to include window close with only 2 relays). 10 1N4004 diodes. (you'll use at least 5). Strip out: Glove box, back seat squab and back rest...which "jerks" out to remove. Centre tray where cig lighter is located and box above, instrument panel, and right hand lower dash. Positioning Siren and hood (bonnet switch). Siren left hand forward edge of wheel arch (under hood) behind l/hand headlamp, look at hood striker plate there are two holes on the right side where the factory pin switch will go. Mark the equivalent position using a 12mm stepped cut cutter or 12mm drill bit. You only need about 8-10 mm length on the switch. Inside the glove box area above the top of the carpet where your feet would go is an engine bay grommet, the original siren and maybe pin switch should have entered the car from the engine bay there. Use the original cables as draw-throughs. Locks and door contacts. Behind your glove box is an electrics mounting. There is a space on top, the 5901 might just fit in there! 1 row down, yellow plug, pins 17 lock and 14 unlock. (If your lucky the cables might still be there from the original alarm. These are pos. going so here's what you must do: If 451m is acquired, just plug it in instead of the Viper's original lock wires and set it up for pos. locking, i.e. purple and PURPLE / black to 12V+ constant, disregard WHITE/ black and BROWN / black, GREEN/ black to lock and blue black to unlock. Then join the GREEN/ black to the blue/black via a 1N4004 with it's band towards the blue/black, this will give you deadlocking when alarm is and then you effect window close. If you use relays, plug in you original lock/unlock wires and do the following. 1st. Relay, Green to 85 12V+ constant to 86 and 30, 87 to vehicle's lock wire. 2nd. Relay, Blue to 85, others the same again diode from lock to unlock wire with with the band towards the unlock. Now here's the clever part. If you want the windows to close via an aux, programme your aux as timed armed only and wire to either the THIN blue lead from the Viper's lock plug. Now place in-line diodes on the lock, unlock and aux wire with the bands towards the Viper. This is to prevent relay feed back damaging the Viper. A simpler way is to forget doing it via an aux and simply programme the Viper for "Comfort Close". This will give you automatic window/roof close AND deadlocking WHENEVER you arm it, but not when it auto locks via the ignition (default setting anyway). You won't be able to vent the windows because this will unlock the vehicle! Door contacts 4 door 4 wires 2 door, 2. These are on the plug to the right of the yellow plug. They are brown primary with secondaries such as grey, blue yellow etc. (can't remember all) with yellow dots. They might already be connected from the original alarm. If so you have to bring them to the Viper's green wire via diodes, the bands away from the Viper. Centre switch panel. You have some switch blanks adjacent to the cig lighter. Drill 2 x &mm holes for the LED and valet switch. Also set the Viper (see your diagramme above) for neg. lights output and join the white lead to the BROWN / blue lead going to the Hazard switch. Right hand side, inst panel. Remove there are probably 2 plugs at the rear, you are looking for the 1 thin black wire that's tach. Go's to the Viper's violet (or purple)/white. By the way programme it as TACH not virtual tach, it's far more accurate. Under dash driver's side bring your dark blue status output to this point. This is where to place the 556.Set it up as European wiring without the RF loop. Trunk contact, again there might already be one from the original alarm, other wise left hand side, bulkhead from car to trunk, high up is a a large grommet. On the car side, some cables loop up towards the rear shelf and "C" pillar trim. You're looking for a BROWN / white cable, join to it. That's your trunk (boot) trigger. Last part (honestly). On the front passenger side at the engine bay bulkhead inside the car running over the transmission hump is a large cable loom The brake and reverse wires are here. If auto, connect the Viper's BLACK/ white to the reverse wire, ditto the Viper's brown brake wire (TEST for the colours). If manual, feed the Viper's BLACK/ white to the parking brake switch in the centre console. Also in this loom are 12V+ constant, red or RED / blue or RED / green (can't remember which!) ignition 1, light green, ignition 2, violet (or purple) and starter light GREEN/ thin black trace. That's basically it, the rest is up to you, don't use the Viper's ACC output and sort your windows or the close won't work, it's so commonm on 3 Series of that Vintage that I ALWAYS check it pout before starting. Yes they should ALL have one touch. GGOD LUCK.

OOPS, MISTAKES on MY part sorry:- Pin 17 is unlock but 4 is lock. They are opposite in the plug, the unlock side is blue with a reddish trace, the lock side will pobably be vacant. You can buy a short lead with the correct lead from a BMW dealer, they sell them in the UK, though it's a Molex part or strip 5mm from the end of your lock wire shove it in but not past the end of the plug, no whiskers to project, and cable tie it to the other wires in the plug's loom so it doesn't pull out. Lastly, 2 x&mm should of course have read 2 x 7mm (or 9/32 off the top of my head).