1991 nissan d21 viper 5101

Vehicle: 1991 Nissan d21 pickup, 2.4l MANUAL TRANSMISSION System: Viper 5101 Not a pro, but have experience with other installs.. viper seems to be one of its own.. I have searched, read, re-read, and now want to ask some questions. Here is the wiring for the system.. please double check me and let me know where I am wrong. Everything was taped up and ran in the truck, now I just wait to connect them all.. H1, 12 PIN CONNECTOR H1/1-RED / WHITE- TRUNK RELEASE- NOT USED H1/2-RED- 12V CONSTANT- WHITE/ BLACK(STEERING COLUMN) H1/3-BROWN-HORN HONK OUTPUT- RED LEAD FROM SIREN, with a relay to change siren lead to (-) H1/4-WHITE/ BROWN- LIGHT FLASH- NOT USED H1/5-BLACK-GROUND- GROUND TO FRAME H1/6- VIOLET- (+)DOOR TRIGGER INPUT- NOT USED H1/7- BLUE- FACTORY HORN INPUT- (+)LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK H1/8- GREEN- (-)DOOR TRIGGER INPUT- RED / BLACK FROM DRIVERS KICK H1/9- BLACK/ WHITE- (-) DOME LIGHT INPUT- USE DOOR TRIGGER WITH A RELAY- is a relay really needed since my triggers are (-)?? H1/10- WHITE/ BLUE- TURBO TIMER- NOT USED H1/11- WHITE- PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT- PINK/BLUE(+) RELAY NEEDED H1/12- ORANGE- GROUND WHEN ARMED- NOT USED H2, 18-PIN CONNECTOR H2/1-H2/8- NOT USED H2/9- VIOLET/WHITE- TACH INPUT- WHERE THE HECK IS THIS INPUT AT?!!? I have gone probing every wire on the ecu looking for the dang thing.. I have a 4 prong connector behind my cluster.. thought that might have been it, but it gave off 12v on one connector and nothing on the other 3.. I also read somewhere that I could wrap it around the coil wire going to the distributor?! just trying to find that thing. H2/10-H2/16- NOT USED H2/17- BROWN- BRAKE SHUTDOWN- GREEN/ YELLOW OF BRAKE PEDAL SENSOR H2/18- BLACK/ WHITE- NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT(-)- I know that I am to connect this to the e brake cable, so that it is grounded at rest. I would also like to connect it to the neutral switch so that I can make dang sure it is in neutral.. is this coming off the side of the tranny or the top usually? I was going to run a wire from the ebrake and one from the tranny, then connect them both to this input. A little help here. H3, 8-PIN CONNECTOR H3/1- PINK- (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT- BLACK/ WHITE- STEERING COLUMN H3/2- RED / WHITE- (+)FUSED IGNITION 2- (+)12V CONSTANT?? H3/3- ORANGE- (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT- BLACK/ BLUE- STEERING COLUMN H3/4- VIOLET- (+) STARTER OUTPUT- BLACK / YELLOW- both of the wires under the column are connected to the starter output so that it can start when cold. But then one sheet says to out one B/Y wire to the starter output, and one to the Ignition 2 output.. hmmm H3/5- RED- (+) FUSED IGNITION 1 INPUT- (+)12V CONSTANT?? H3/6- PINK/WHITE- (+) IGNITION 2 OUTPUT- Since both my BLACK / YELLOW wires are hooked to the starter output, is this input not used? H3/7- PINK/BLACK- (+) FLEX RELAY- NOT USED H3/8- RED / BLACK- (+) FUSED ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT- (+) 12V CONSTANT?! DOOR LOCK, 3-PIN CONNECTOR I added 2 wire actuators to the doors, then proceeded to use the DEI relay and am left with a purple wire going to a 12V CONSTANT I just need to make sure that these connections are correct. I know that most of them are, as I pulled diagrams from this site, bulldog, dei's site, and a few others. I am also wondering about my constant 12V. Am I able to hook them all up to my WHITE/ Black wire under the dash and run them like that? Or do I need to run a wire from the battery, if so, how is that done? Fuse size? One wire that has 4 or 5 constant 12v's connected to it? Also, where am I pulling my constant 12V for the relays? I think that covers all the issues that I have come up with so far.. I have ran the dmm at all my wires, just am getting confused on a few snagups. Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.

Here are some updates :

H1, 12 PIN CONNECTOR

H1/1-RED / WHITE- TRUNK RELEASE- NOT USED  H1/2-RED- 12V CONSTANT- WHITE/ BLACK(STEERING COLUMN) H1/3-BROWN-HORN HONK OUTPUT- RED LEAD FROM SIREN, with a relay to change siren lead to (-) H1/4-WHITE/ BROWN- LIGHT FLASH- NOT USED H1/5-BLACK-GROUND- GROUND TO FRAME H1/6- VIOLET- (+)DOOR TRIGGER INPUT- NOT USED H1/7- BLUE- FACTORY HORN INPUT- (-)LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK H1/8- GREEN- (-)DOOR TRIGGER INPUT- RED / BLACK FROM DRIVERS KICK H1/9- BLACK/ WHITE- (-) DOME LIGHT INPUT- USE DOOR TRIGGER WITH A RELAY- is a relay really needed since my triggers are (-)?? H1/10- WHITE/ BLUE- TURBO TIMER- NOT USED H1/11- WHITE- PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT- PINK/BLUE(+) Set Viper Parking Light Jumper to Positive

H1/12- ORANGE- GROUND WHEN ARMED- NOT USED

H2, 18-PIN CONNECTOR

H2/1-H2/8- NOT USED H2/9- VIOLET/WHITE- TACH INPUT-     Tachometer  white  (AC)  in large conn. by dr. kick  ** Set Viper Menu 3, Item 2, Opt 4

H2/10-H2/16- NOT USED H2/17- BROWN- BRAKE SHUTDOWN- GREEN/ YELLOW OF BRAKE PEDAL SENSOR H2/18- BLACK/ WHITE- NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT(-)- I know that I am to connect this to the e brake cable, so that it is grounded at rest. I would also like to connect it to the neutral switch so that I can make dang sure it is in neutral.. is this coming off the side of the tranny or the top usually? I was going to run a wire from the ebrake and one from the tranny, then connect them both to this input. A little help here.

H3, 8-PIN CONNECTOR

H3/1- PINK- (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT- BLACK/ WHITE- STEERING COLUMN H3/2- RED / WHITE- (+)FUSED IGNITION 2-  WHITE/ BLACK (STEERING COLUMN)

H3/3- ORANGE- (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT- BLACK/ BLUE- STEERING COLUMN H3/4- VIOLET- (+) STARTER OUTPUT- BLACK / YELLOW - Steering ColumnH3/5- RED- (+) FUSED IGNITION 1 INPUT- WHITE/ BLACK (STEERING COLUMN)

H3/6- PINK/WHITE- (+) IGNITION 2 OUTPUT- BLACK / YELLOW @ Steering Column  ** Set Viper Menu 3, Item 8, Opt 3

H3/7- PINK/BLACK- (+) FLEX RELAY- NOT USED H3/8- RED / BLACK- (+) FUSED ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT-  WHITE/ BLACK (STEERING COLUMN)

The two Starter wires should be isolated.  Use the Viper Flex relay to power Starter2.

Soldering is fun!

Thanks! Any idea what that Tach wire should read? The only wires I saw were all white (14v at idle) or WHITE/ someothercolor.. and didn't get readings that confirmed the correct volts for a Tach.. Also, the starter wires.. you mentioned one to the flex.. is that to H3/7 Flex relay, or H3/6, like what you have marked?

Tach should read between 0.6V and 5.0V AC.  To test, set the DMM to 20V AC scale, Black lead to chassis ground, Red lead to suspect wire.  Voltage should rise with RPM's.  You could also go to a Fuel Injector or Ignition Coil.

Yes, H3/6 is the Flex relay output.  It is marked Ignition2 because that is the Viper program default.  H3/2 is the input that supplies the power for that output.  ( Basically it's a relay with H3/2 RED / White as Pin 87, H3/6 Pink/White as Pin 30 and H3/7 Pink/Black as Pin 87A. )

Soldering is fun!

Ahhh ac.. I kept testing dc... whoops. Ill test some wires in the morning! Thanks

If a single coil, that's the best place to go. You will have 2 terminals on your coil marked - and +, 61 and 15, or CB and switch, go to the first in each case. When you switch on the ignition but not engine, one will read 12v+, the other not, the one reading not is the one to use. As a guess the BLACK/ white wire at either coil or engine management. My 2000 Nissan has a NSS at the engined management. Check your pin-outs via a vehicle wiring diagram to see if your management has one, if it does use it and program your R/S as an auto. Much better than parking brake, let me assure you from good experience. As for the locking what type of locking system is listed? I'm guessing one wire open circuit (type F) or add actuator.

Just had another look at your post, yes you will need a relay for dome supervision, that dome supervision will be drawing 1 amp per 10watt bulb. Sorry about my lock comments, didn't read your post too well, that spare wire goes again to a 12volt+ constant. Ref your fuse question, why not by a multi way fuse box, thick lead from the battery with say a 100 amp maxi at the battery then run into the body and distribute it. Google car fuse holders then look for 6 and 8 way holders.

@howie- I was hoping to have an uncluttered mess and hook them all to my constant 12 under the dash,but realized with all the juice the thing is pulling, id have to go another route.. I've used the maxi fuses, ill look into that.. run a 4 or 6.

It's neater to run a 100 amp at the battery then an 8 way fuse box for example, go to the Raw Components* website and look up fuse holders, that way you keep all the R/S and associated, siren, locks etc. in one place. I would suggest pos and neg both taken from your battery on an older vehicle. I got called in once because someone installed a Clifford AG4 to a Mkl Golf circa 1982 and the damn thing wouldn't work, I simply ran all the power and grounds to the battery and soaked the fuse holders in moisture retarder. Worked a treat. *My Google search keeps taking me back to UK suppliers but that will give you an idea of what I mean.

Yeah. I needed to rethink how that'd look with one wire in one out.. So I would run one in, connect to fuse block, then wiring in from there, and put a fuse in each holder accordingly. also, I wanted to run my nss since the local shop wants almost as much as a bitwriter costs to switch into auto mode.. thought it'd be safe enough with both nss and brake hooked up? But I am willing to learn from others mistakes, err, findings!