remote start 02 sonata

Hi everyone, I could use some professional help. I have the downtime so I figured I would install my remote start. I have done a few before, but never a 2 way. Last one I did had a LOT less wires. The car is a 02 hyundai sonata v6 with no chip in the key. The remote start/alarm is a avital 5303. Please bear with me as I have a lot of questions and more to come. First I was running the antenna and can't tuck the wire under the headliner, I even used a flat head and it won't go in. Maybe because the glue seeped through when the windshield was replaced recently, I don't know. So can I have it mounted at the bottom of the window and still get good range? I'm installing all the 10g thick wires now. 3 of them have constant 12v ignition and I only have 1 RED / constant on my ignition harness. Is it safe to just bundle all 3 of these together? Wiring for my car is here: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~3829 Remote start wiring is here: (and takes awhile to load) http://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/IG/Avital/N5303_2008_07web_.pdf I do not see a neutral safety switch anywhere. Anyone know where it's at or just ground it out? (car is auto btw) If I don't use the hoodpin do I just ground that out as well or leave it disconnected? How do I wire up the rear defroster to work? [quote]blue (-) status output orange (-) 200mA 2nd accessory output Violet (-) 200mA starter output Pink (-) 200mA 3rd ignition output[/quote] I'm assuming I don't need any of these? [quote] blue (-) status output ORANGE / black (-) 200mA anti-grind/ground when armed output Violet (-) 200mA starter trigger orange (-) 200mA accessory trigger Pink (-) 200mA ignition trigger Yellow (+) ignition input to remote start Pink/White 200ma programmable ignition/accessory trigger [/quote] I'm going to assume I don't need any of these either? I just need alarm/remote start/trunk pop. I think that's it. Nothing fancy. [quote]Light GREEN/ black (-) factory alarm disarm gray/black (-) wait to start input GREEN / WHITE (-) factory alarm rearm violet/black (-) 200mA channel 4 output WHITE/ black (-) 200mA channel 5 output Light blue (-) 2nd unlock output [/quote] Car isn't a diesel so I don't need that. I do believe the factory alarm works off the factory remote so as long as I don't use that then I shouldn't need this I assume. That's all for now, I'll have more questions when I finish soldering the big wires and wrap them up. Really appreciate the help!

Can't edit, but does this make it easier to read. Hi everyone, I could use some professional help. I have the downtime so I figured I would install my remote start. I have done a few before, but never a 2 way. Last one I did had a LOT less wires. The car is a 02 hyundai sonata v6 with no chip in the key. The remote start/alarm is a avital 5303. Please bear with me as I have a lot of questions and more to come. First I was running the antenna and can't tuck the wire under the headliner, I even used a flat head and it won't go in. Maybe because the glue seeped through when the windshield was replaced recently, I don't know. So can I have it mounted at the bottom of the window and still get good range? I'm installing all the 10g thick wires now. 3 of them have constant 12v ignition and I only have 1 RED / constant on my ignition harness. Is it safe to just bundle all 3 of these together? Wiring for my car is here: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~3829 Remote start wiring is here: (and takes awhile to load) http://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/IG/Avital/N5303_2008_07web_.pdf I do not see a neutral safety switch anywhere. Anyone know where it's at or just ground it out? (car is auto btw) If I don't use the hoodpin do I just ground that out as well or leave it disconnected? How do I wire up the rear defroster to work?

instructions wrote: blue (-) status output orange (-) 200mA 2nd accessory output Violet (-) 200mA starter output Pink (-) 200mA 3rd ignition output

I'm assuming I don't need any of these?

another wire bundle wrote: blue (-) status output ORANGE / black (-) 200mA anti-grind/ground when armed output Violet (-) 200mA starter trigger orange (-) 200mA accessory trigger Pink (-) 200mA ignition trigger Yellow (+) ignition input to remote start Pink/White 200ma programmable ignition/accessory trigger

I'm going to assume I don't need any of these either? I just need alarm/remote start/trunk pop. I think that's it. Nothing fancy.

more wires wrote: Light GREEN/ black (-) factory alarm disarm gray/black (-) wait to start input GREEN / WHITE (-) factory alarm rearm violet/black (-) 200mA channel 4 output WHITE/ black (-) 200mA channel 5 output Light blue (-) 2nd unlock output

Car isn't a diesel so I don't need that. I do believe the factory alarm works off the factory remote so as long as I don't use that then I shouldn't need this I assume. That's all for now, I'll have more questions when I finish soldering the big wires and wrap them up. Really appreciate the help!

1.)  Neutral Safety - Verify the car can't be started in gear then connect

      NSS wire to Chassis Ground or E-Brake.

2.)  The Hood Pin Safety is important.  If the car has an alarm it might have

      a factory Hood Pin.      Hood Pin      lt. blue  (-)       ETACM, 12 pin plug, pin 2       If not, install the one supplied in the kit.

3.)  For a basic install most/all of those wires are not used.

4.)  Here is some info from DEI on the Factory Alarm :

      Triggering the Keysense wire at the same time as the Ignition and      Accessory wires will disarm the factory alarm without unlocking the      doors.

Soldering is fun!

I'll just ground out the neutral safety switch then. There was 2 wires (red) that had 12v so I used the 3 wires on the remote start to those 2 wires. All the heavy gauge wiring is done. What is ETACM? I understand what keysense does, I just don't see a wire for it on this instruction manual.

As long as those two Red wires are large enough to supply the required current, you will be OK. 

There usually isn't any specific R/S wire designated for the Keysense wire.  Most of the time it isn't necessary to connect it.  Most vehicles have a Keysense wire and it can be either (+) or (-) polarity.   You Sonata's is (+) so you could use an ( isolated ) Ignition (+) output.

Here is a link to the DEI wiring guide :  http://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?make=Hyundai&model=Sonata

The ETACM (Electronic Time and Alarm Control Module) is attached to the fusebox below the fuses.

Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote: You Sonata's is (+) so you could use an ( isolated ) Ignition (+) output.

Can you look at the directions I have in the first link and just tell me which to use? That would help me out a ton. Moving right along. Tach wire sucked to get to so did the brake wire, but I got them and they are all soldered up. I can't figure out the defrost so I'm just going to skip it. All I have left is the

wth' wrote: green (-) lock (+) unlock blue (-) unlock (+) lock

That makes zero sense to me. And then the wire harness that has the biggest amount of wires. Here are some I don't understand

HELP' wrote: Orange (-) 500Ma ground when armed output WHITE/ blue (-) activation input RED / white (-) 200mA Aux trunk release output blue (-) trunk trigger output

So do I use both for the trunk or just 1? This bundle also has door trigger input (+ and a -) so why is there a plug with 2 wires

wth' wrote: green (-) lock (+) unlock blue (-) unlock (+) lock

Do I use all of those for the door locks?

As for the Factory Alarm, if you don't use the factory FOB to lock the car ( and maybe don't lock the car by pressing the door lock button with the door open upon exit ) the alarm won't set. And you won't have to worry about it.  Short of that, you could use the LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK (-) FACTORY ALARM DISARM wire to a polarity conversion relay to develop / supply the (+) Keysense signal.  Here is a diagram : https://www.the12volt.com/relays/page1.asp#n2p

Note :  While Bulldog Security indicates that the Factory Alarm can be disabled with the Keysense signal, DEI says FOB only but also mentions that it can be disabled with a pulse to Keysense, Ignition and Accessories.

Did you verify that the car has a Factory Alarm?

The Avital door lock outputs are the "Flip-Flop" type.  The Green wire would be used as the lock output on a vehicle with a (-), Type B, door lock system like your Sonata.  The Blue wire would be used for the unlock wire.

The next wire needed is the RED / White Trunk Release wire.  Connect to :

 TRUNK RELEASE   GREEN (-)    @ 12-PIN PLUG, PIN 5, @ ETACM

The two Door Trigger Input wires are to accommodate various vehicles.  You connect only one wire to the vehicle depending on the vehicles' available polarity.  In your case its the (-) Door Trigger going to :

DOOR TRIGGER   YELLOW (-)    @ 12-PIN PLUG, PIN 9, FRONT OF FUSE BOX

Soldering is fun!

OK I need some help. I wired up the door locks and everything else (minus the siren and trunk pop) I hooked up to the yellow wire in the back of the fuse box because there wasn't one in the front that matched then I cut it and figured I will deal with that later. And it doesn't work. Like nothing works. I tried to reprogram the fob and nothing still. The LED doesn't even go on at all. The led on the shock sensor worked. I have verified that I have good ground on the 12pin connector as well as a good 12v. The heavy gauge wiring also has 12 volts per my fluke. So where do I start to troubleshoot?

Trunk, siren, horn, keysense are not wired in. I think that is it though, everything is wired, soldered and plugged into the unit. Double checked the led and valet switch are plugged in. Never hooked up the hood pin either just left it disconnected, neutral safety switch is grounded out.

Well I feel stupid. I forgot to plug in the antenna duh! Few issues. The car keeps cranking and won't stop. Also when I hit the lock button the remote it started to crank. wth?!