2005 dodge ram 2 way alarm / remote start

I'm hoping someone can chime in on this one for me.  I'm looking to install a 2-way alarm/remote start on a 2005 Dodge Ram 1500.  I'm looking for unlock/lock, remote start, glass breakage, security.  Not really looking for any more features outside of that.  My truck has the factory "alarm" along with keyless entry and the gray key.  I've been reading a lot of information and have become quite confused.  Do I HAVE to use relays, diodes, and resistors, or will an Xpresskit, or other module, take care of all of that?

I'm looking at a Viper 5901 (or Clifford clone) or a Prestige SS9000.  It seems if I use the 5901 and the Xpresskit DBALL I would NOT have to use external relays, ect, but every post I see on this topic for this vehicle says it does.  Now the amount of relays, value of resistors, and diodes all varies from post to post.  I guess my question is:

What all do I need to hook this up with the fewest wires, extra parts, as possible?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

If you go with the DB-ALL you will have to either flash the firmware yourself (must have an XKLoader to do so) or it will have to be flashed for you. You are better off going with an idatalink ADS-AL SL CH. It will come pre-programmed to control the immobilizer through data (no key required), door locks, factory alarm, door status, tachometer, brake pedal, ebrake, and ignition status... which will make the installation a lot easier. You will have to go with a wire to wire installation (not data) but it is more reliable in wire to wire anyways. I don't know that unit very well but if it has the parking light isolation option built in it will also eliminate the need for that relay as well. You will simply be able to put a resistor where the fuse jumper would normally be, and wire in the 2 parking light connections to either side of the factory parking light wire. If you decide to go with a Compustar unit, and have someone with idatalink access, you can get the blade-al bypass which will do all of the above, but the bypass actually slides into the remote starter brain and makes for a few less connections and 1 less module to tuck away.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

Thanks for the quick reply, offroad!

The idatalink looks pretty good to me.  I have a couple questions with what you had said.  You said that "pre-programmed to control the immobilizer through data (no key required), door locks, factory alarm, door status, tachometer, brake pedal, ebrake, and ignition status...", but then said I would have to go with a wire to wire install.  Do you mean wire to wire to connect the idatalink box to the remote start/alarm and then it's data from the idatalink to the truck's OBD2 port? 

I'm understanding all of this to mean that using this idatalink box I would NOT have to use additional relays and resistors, correct?  The Type 3 wiring diagram for the idata box doesn't show anything additional is needed..except and SKIM Immobilizer module.

Ok, 3 questions. lol  I assume since I would not have an RS232 port on the Viper, or similar system, that I could not use hte idatalink cable..thus the wires in red are required to be connected..I'm reading that correctly, right?

Thanks again!

w2w indicates wires from the alarm/rs of your choice to the idatalink, and from the idatalink wires to the obd2. the only additional relay is if you want defrost. i havent seen a newer viper unit without the data dbi port. the red and black dotted lines must be conneted in w2w, and not required in datalink rs232 mode.Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

Excellent!  I'm glad to hear I don't need to mess with all the additional relays. I could do it, I just didn't want to have to deal with all the extra trouble. I understand the W2W now.

Ok, I think I'm getting clear on this.  I do have a couple of additional questions, if you guys don't mind. 

1. Is the Viper data dbi port an RS232 connection?  Do I can connect the 5901 directly to the idatalink directly with this connection, and not need W2W on all of that, right?

2. offroad recommended the ADS-AL SL CH. I checked the idatalink website and there are a bunch that "fit" my truck.  Is this the one to use, or should I use another? I'm not second guessing offroad, just wondering why this particular one.  The website isn't real clear on why this one would be the one.

Just trying to get a full understanding of this before I dive in. I appreciate all the help.

Ok, so I'm more confused now. I keep reading on this forum that resistors are needed for the door lock/unlock.  I thought this would be controlled through the data J1850 line to the OBD2 port.  Why are these resistors needed if that's the case?

the resistors are required if you only use an immobilizer bypass. You are using a databux bypass which esentially has the resistors built in (not literally, but thats basically how it works)Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

Ahhh..ok.  So I wonder why more people don't use the "all-in-one"? Seems it makes life a lot easier.

Man, I hate to say it, but I'm looking at the Viper 5901 install manual and the ADS-ALSO-CH install manual and really can't for sure determine what all wires connect to what.  I'm also unsure what all wires I don't have to use on the 5901.  The manual isn't clear on this.  It seems I have to connect each and every wire.

I'm going to look into compustar alarm/rs, but I'm not being able to find install manuals for those...at least not yet..the search continues.

yes the viper dbi port is an rs232 data connection. you can connect the viper to the idatalink directly, but you must obtain the correct firmware for the idatalink (DBI-al-ca) for example. if you prefer data, you are not required to connect the red and black-dotted lines. there are 3 series to idatalink. solo, multi, and blade. i did not include their flex because not too many people use it. the solo is great if you're a DIYer the solo is a preflashed module so you dont have to worry about firmware/compatibility issues. the multi is what most installers prefer using. its one module that can be used for immobilizer or databus/can/immobilizer. this is the "all-in-one" module that we, as installers flash specific firmware onto for the vehicle we are working on. With that being said, you need the idatalink ads-usb to update these modules. last but not least, idatalink BLADE. These are only compatible with select brands out there, but they are exclusive to compustar. They slide into the backside of the compustar brain, making less wires to connect, and a much cleaner install. this requires you to use a compustar, idatalink ads-usb, and an account registered for weblink/compustar (dealer access only) as far as the resistors, they are only required if you are not using an "interface" module. that requires physical connections to the car. when using an interface module such as an idatalink piece, the firmware flashed on the unit tells it to send a pulse with a certain resistance, similar if you had a resistor inline. hope that explains everything.Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

Ok, it's coming together for me now. Thanks for all the help guys! So I guess my next dilemma is going to get the idatatlink flashed. I understand if I buy from Lessco Electronics they will flash it for me for like $5. I just have to hope they do it right for me. Any thoughts on that? For some reason I like the Viper most. No experience with any of them so perhaps I going in a little ignorant. Ok, I def am, but the Viper does get good reviews and seems used here alot. Now, I'm assuming the idatatlink helps only with whats listed and the wires you would w2w to it. After looking at the Viper install and the idatalink install , I'm not sure what wire from the Viper connects to the GWR blue/white on the ilink. Also, I'm not sure about the light flashing relay and parking light control. The wiring for my truck says to use a 590omh resistor for the light flash relay if it is to be isolated. I assumeit does and I connect it as so. I'm trying to lay out the wiring completely so I know what attaches to what and get it completely mapped out vefore I even start. Have a schematic ready to go ahead of time kinda thing. Obviously I'm no installer, but try to be a diyer and think I have some ability, but never dealt with one thses before and I admit is a bit overwhelming. With that said I truly do appreciate all the help and input.