2009 camry transponder bypass

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specs

Copper - Posts: 120

Joined: October 02, 2009

Location: Saskatchewan, Canada

Posted: February 07, 2012 at 8:45 PM / IP Logged

Hello all, going to be installing an Autostart AS-2371TW-FM in a friends' wife's 2009 Toyota Camry 4 cyl. (not hybrid or PTS).....looking for some recommendations on a door lock interface/transponder bypass from those with experience with this vehicle. Would like to be able to do this D2D if possible, so something that will "play nice" with DEI/Autostart products. I know a lot of folks on this forum feel W2W is the more reliable way to go, but I'd like to at least give D2D a go........any specific tips on this vehicle/install also greatly appreciated! Thanks, Al

tedmond

Gold - Posts: 4,610

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Joined: January 06, 2007

Location: Ontario, Canada

Posted: February 07, 2012 at 9:05 PM / IP Logged

for toyota vehicles, i usually hard wire everything because all the wiring is so accessible. the bypass of choice to use is the Fortin Key-override-all.

if you want to go d2d and prevent wiring as much as possible, the idatalink ADS-DLSL CA2 comes pre-programmed for w2w not DBI (d2d).

if you have your own ads-usb you can purchase the ads-al-ca and flash it for the vehicle youre working on. its going to be hard to find a bypass all ready to go online. youre best bet is have a local shop flash whatever module they have available for that 09 camry.

Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

kreg357

Platinum - Posts: 7,783

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Joined: January 30, 2009

Location: Pennsylvania, United States

Posted: February 07, 2012 at 9:25 PM / IP Logged

X2 with Ted. The PKALL ( DEI version of Key-Override-All ) will do the bypass and go D2D & hardwire the rest.

If you what to try D2D with a full function module, try to get an iDatalink ADS AL-CA flashed with the DBI AL(DL) TL1 firmware. That should go two way D2D with your AutoStart unit. Here is a link to iDatalink : http://www.idatalink.com/support/helpdesk Download install guide #7709 for more info. You will also need the ADS HRN DBI harness for the D2D connection.

Soldering is fun!

Mike M2

Platinum - Posts: 2,652

Joined: June 29, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: February 07, 2012 at 9:31 PM / IP Logged

I agree, this car is so easy that all you need is a bypass for the transponder. The locks/tach/brake/etc are so easy to get it isn't worth an expensive module, go with the module that's cheap...

Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

tedmond

Gold - Posts: 4,610

Joined: January 06, 2007

Location: Ontario, Canada

Posted: February 07, 2012 at 9:48 PM / IP Logged

Kregs suggestion of the pkall will work d2d, and Mike has a point. Use the most cost effective solution is key.

hardwire everything, most if not all connections are at the kick panel/fusebox.

Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

Chris Luongo

Platinum - Posts: 3,746

This member consistently provides reliable information

Joined: May 21, 2002

Location: Massachusetts, United States

Posted: February 08, 2012 at 7:12 AM / IP Logged

Flashlogic FLTB1 has data-to-data and comes pre-programmed for your car; does transponder only. They sell something similar under the iDatalink brand, but I'm not sure what firmware comes on that one...you might need to reflash it.

Fortin's KEY-OVERRIDE-ALL or DEI's rebadged version (PKALL) works just as well, but does not support the DBI protocol, at least as far as I know.

If you can spend a little more, and want a cleaner install that's also easier for the car's owner to use, consider the Flashlogic FLCAN iDatalink ALCA. It does trunk, locks, tach, brake, and door/trunk trigger through data, saving you some connections to the car.

More importantly, it keeps the OEM remotes working even when the car is running, and if your aftermarket system is an alarm/starter combo, the OEM remotes will arm/disarm it, so the car's owner will never trigger the alarm by using the "wrong" remote. You'll also get the Toyota signature "beep" sound from both remotes (even the aftermarket).

Do keep in mind that FLCAN/ALCA require "flashing" the correct firmware. This requires a special "flasher" cable, as well as an account with ADS, and they only give accounts to professionals in the business. If you're planning this as a DIY install, only buy your module from someone who will sell it to you already flashed with the firmware you need.

Where I work, we would do this car with the FLTB1 and hardwire the locks/brake/trunk to keep product cost down.

If it were my personal car, I'd spend the money on the FLCAN (around $20-40 more depending on where you buy) to reduce wire splices into my car, and to keep the OEM remotes fully functional.

By the way, you don't need an account to look at the installation guides; they'll help you greatly in your decision. www.flashlogic.com and then select your car. Look at the guide for each module.

P.S. I've only used data-to-data from Flashlogic to Audiovox and DEI products. When it works it works well, but our industry has done a shamefully poor job of testing/fixing DBI before foisting the flawed products on us installers to suffer from.

I've never installed an Autostart before, so hopefully someone can come along and tell you how well they work in data mode.

specs

Copper - Posts: 120

Joined: October 02, 2009

Location: Saskatchewan, Canada

Posted: February 08, 2012 at 9:43 PM / IP Logged

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions..most likely go with the simple/low cost approach and get the PKALL, hardwire the rest. One further question, anyone have any opinions to offer on the DBALL as far as an all-in-one for this vehicle? I can get my hands on one of these for just a few dollars more than the PKALL....looks like it may save me a bit of work/time (if D2D works as it should!). Liked the looks of some of the other bypass/door lock modules that were suggested above, but I have the XK Loader already, so am equipped to do any flashing on the xpresskit modules only........Thank you all again for the valuable advice, Al

kreg357

Platinum - Posts: 7,783

Joined: January 30, 2009

Location: Pennsylvania, United States

Posted: February 09, 2012 at 4:47 AM / IP Logged

Just for clairification, you will need the XKLoader2 to flash the DB-ALL. Sorry, never used a DB-ALL but from reading some of the posts from others that have used them...... 2009 camry transponder bypass -- posted image.

Soldering is fun!

offroadzj

Gold - Posts: 2,043

Joined: June 03, 2005

Location: New York, United States

Posted: February 09, 2012 at 5:54 AM / IP Logged

I never go D2D with DEI products. Every time I have in the past its had issues. W2W takes only a few minutes more and can be done right at the bench (or in the warmth of your living room) and it will save you a lot of headache later. With D2D you have almost zero diagnostic abilities (no wires to test for signal).

My suggestion is to save the money, get the PK-ALL, and do W2W. Otherwise you may end up pulling it all back out and re-doing it later.

Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

specs

Copper - Posts: 120

Joined: October 02, 2009

Location: Saskatchewan, Canada

Posted: February 13, 2012 at 11:22 PM / IP Logged

Hello all....sry for taking so long to post back to this topic, bit of a change of plans on this end. Instead of the above-mentioned Autostart r/s, I'm now installing a Viper 571XV into the 2009 Camry!....don't ask!! Anyway, would appreciate if someone could give my wiring plans a going over and see if I've got everything covered....any criticisms, suggestions welcomed! Will be using the PKALL as recommended above and everything will be done w2w. Thanks again, Al

PKALL

6 pin conn.- PURPLE / white Rx(data in) -----light grn or brown (pin 4 @ ignition switch)

yellow/black Tx(data out)-----tan or red(pin 5 @ ignition switch)

blue/white(GWR)-----blue (pin 1 r/s aux harness)

green-----blue(keysense..pin1 of 2 pin plug @ ignition switch)

4 pin conn.-blue-----+12v

black-----ground

Viper 571XV

H1 conn.- H1/2 +/- light flash output (white) to black(-) @ headlight switch

H1/8 ground input(black) to chassis ground

H1/10 (-) horn output (brown) to pin 11 @ dash fusebox (white)

H1/11 power input (red) to constant 12V

H1/12 (-) 200mA channel 2 output (RED / white) to trunk wire (black) drivers running board harness through relay

Heavy guage satellite relay-

1. Starter output (purple) to starter side of cut starter wire (blue @ ignition switch)

2. Starter input (green) to key side of cut starter wire (blue @ ignition switch)

3. 12V input (red) to 12V from battery

4. Accessory output (orange) to accessory (white @ ignition switch)

5. 12V input (red) to 12V from battery

6. Ignition output (pink) to ignition 1 (yellow @ ignition switch)

8. Ignition output (pink/white) to ignition 2 (pink @ ignition switch)

H3 conn.-

H3/2 hoodpin shutdown(gray) to hood pinswitch

H3/3 brake shutdown (brown) to brake switch above brake pedal (blue)

H3/4 tach input (violet/white) to pin 9 diagnostic conn. (black)

H3/5 neutral safety (BLACK/ white) to ground

H4 conn.-

H4/1 door lock (green) to drivers kick panel (purple)

H4/3 door unlock (blue) to drivers kick panel (green)-set to double pulse

auxiliary wire harness-

1. (-) 200 mA status output(blue) to GWR of PKALL

4. (-) 200mA start relay (purple) to 2nd starter wire (grey) ignition switch through relay

Well, think that's it....sorry for the long post, any input appreciated..thank you

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