car alarm wires

Hello guys...finally I decided to go in pretty new subject to me and get knowledge in car alarm system. And for first it was pretty easy, but after spent some hours and hours on researching and looking for answer I finally got some question that I'm not understand, yet. And I hope that you going to help me and I'm going to help another people that going my way. Let it be small how-to. Because I will not just install this, but will explain for newbie persons like me how i did that ;) Attention tons of pictures This is guide that I followed for wire location Let's start I bought this alarm Code Alarm CA6552 for good reference and nice price compare to DEI models. Anyway the install and guide that was provided as I understood is not easy for person who install it first. Here is the clickable link with specification My car is Mitsubishi Eclipse 2000GS. Here is below the description that I guided for connecting my alarm. And here is questions: 1. Output Harness Ignition 3/ Active Output As in manual said it's additional wire that can be programmed for different purpose especially for transporder bypass. And as I wish to install car alarm remote I understand that I need it. But as I looked on my wire diagram (Start and Immobilizer ) I can't find to which wire I need to contact it. Here is below the picture what's manual said about this: So do I need to cut my starter cable and connect this like it on image 3 for remote start option Here is the picture of what relay I have with this alarm ********************************************************* 2. Output Harness AUX 1 It's provides impulse signal to control my power window, sunroof etc. But I really don't know how and what I need to do with this wire. Here below description of it ********************************************************* 3. Input Harness Door trigger input+ According to my electric diagram we have negative switch it's mean both wires from key cylinder has ground, so should I just cut this wire or I misunderstood the purpose of it ********************************************************* 4. Input Harness External Start Input (-) Should I connect it to one of my ground wire on bypass kit DEI 556U. Right ? ********************************************************* 5. Input Harness Neutral Safety Input(-) It's necessary for remote start, and couldn't locate this wire. Is it in big junction box ? ********************************************************* ]6. Input Harness Tach Input As professional guide side of wiring location the picture from the top thread which I followed it's some plug in my fuse box, can't locate it definitely so need help to find it. Here is what alarm guide said : ********************************************************* 7.Alternate Output Harness - Pulse during crank Should I connect it just to starter wire, because as I understood I haven't second starter wire, and what actually this alarm wire doing. ********************************************************* 8.Start Harness - Starter Output(+) According to manual I should install starter killer, here where I should use this wire Ignition 3 from output harness. Right ? And is it really necessary to install this starter killer because I've immobilizer ? ********************************************************* So here we have pretty a lot of question that I wish to figure out for myself and I wish to help people who going to have probably the same question with DIY Car Alarm. And one more time the list of questions: 1. Output Harness Ignition 3/ Active Output 2. Output Harness AUX 1 3. Input Harness Door trigger input+ 4. Input Harness External Start Input (-) 5. Input Harness Neutral Safety Input(-) 6. Input Harness Tach Input 7.Alternate Output Harness - Pulse during crank 8.Start Harness - Starter Output(+) THE MAIN THREAD GOING BE UPDATED WHILE I'LL GET ANSWERS ON MY QUESTION AND EVERYTHING WOULD BE CLEAR.

So will do Small How To DIY Car Alarm in future from this thread Thanks everybody who going to help me in this !!!;) And here is questions:And here is questions:The degree of your luck depends on your willingness to act

Welcome to the forum!  There are many members that can assist you with your install.  While CodeAlarm is not my usual brand, I can answer

some of your questions.

First, understand that the CA6552 is a generic aftermarket unit that is designed to be flexible enough to handle most normal vehicles.  Not all

wires will be necessary.   Notice that there are both (+) and (-) Door Trigger Inputs.  Depending on the vehicle, only one of them will be used.

Second, it appears that the CA6552 system is an alarm / remote start / keyless entry unit.  For the remote start portion to work, I believe you

will need a transponder bypass module.  Looks like Mitsubishi started incorporating transponders into the Eclipse in 2000. You can verify this by wrapping your keyhead in several layers of aluminum foil and trying to start your car.  There doesn't appear to be any data style units for your car so you will need a spare key and a universal transponder bypass module like the DEI 556UW. 

To answer your first question, the Blue/Black Ign3 wire would be used to control the bypass module, if one is required.  It does have other

uses depending on the vehicles' needs.

The second answer is:  Your car has one Ignition wire, one Starter wire and two Accessory wires.  While you could use the supplied relay

for that, an easier way is to program the Pink/White Ignition2 wire to Accessory2 and use that Pink/White wire for the vehicles ACC2 wire.

Typically the AUX's are optional.  They can be used to do various things like widow open & close, turn on the defroster, etc.

Soldering is fun!

Where does one start? The first comment would be to take this to a pro and get it done properly but let's have a go. If you don't understand, more proof of my first sentence. 1)Blue/black also known as a GWR or status output wire. Connects to the blue on your 556 2)Violet/black. This wire acts as a trigger for the extra window close modules etc. In that instance you program it as a timed (20) seconds or a latched output. Or use the negative when armed (GWA) wire, probably orange. 3)Ignore. Your GREEN goes to the GREEN/ YELLOW wire that switches to ground when the door opens. As shown on the (best available) crib sheet you printed out. 4)Ignore 5)Goes to parking brake switch or dash warning light on a manual, NSS wire on your engine management if the vehicle has one (I doubt it or DEI would have mentioned it on the above list). On an auto, either to ground or to the reverse light feed, gear shift, rear of gauges or floor loom. Verify the colour at the rear light cluster. 6)This instruction again see DEI list can't be more logical. If this gives you grief..... 7)Irrelevant, read the DEI list YET AGAIN and tell me if you have a second starter. 8)Wrong Use the GWA wire see above and this diagram, I've corrected for the Mits and the Code colours:- BF3_starter_cut.bmp You will need 3 1N4004 diodes, one may already be on that relay. As you can see, dead easy.

g****** it Kregg you beat me again, by about 3 seconds. Correction, 2 diodes, I can see the relay one is already fitted. By the way, bad mood we lost 2-1. Sod it!

Howard, it's way past your bedtime...      My condolences on the loss.

Here are some more answers.  ( I was typing whilst the U.K was busy...)

Before we get to far, be advised that this unit is designed to be installed into a vehicle with an Automatic Transmission.  If you have a

manual transmission, stop right here and purchase a system that is designed and safe for a manual transmission.

The External Start Input won't be used for your install.  However you could use it to test a remote startup without the CA's remotes by

touching this wire to chassis ground.

The Neutral Safety Input should be connected to an ECM wire that shows (-) when the transmission is in Park or Neutral.  On your car,

Code Alarm data has this info : Neutral Safety          BLACK/ RED  (-) PARK AND NEUTRAL SWITCH

On some vehicles, it is connected to the Parking Brake wire.

Most installers have found that running in Tach Mode provides the most reliable starting.  The Tach Input wire should be connected to a

good Tach source.  The DEI info you listed has a tach source listed.  Connect to that wire, program the CA6552 for Tach Mode operationand perform the Tach Learn procedure.

Pulse During Crank probably won't be necessary. 

The Purple Starter Output can be connected directly to the vehicles Starter wire at the ignition switch harness.  If you want Starter-Kill, then

follow the instructions and install the supplied relay.

Soldering is fun!

Yes I vaguely heard the notification over my phone as I was drifting off to sleep, the PC was off so here I am. I just realised that this is probably the same vehicle under the skin as my old 99 Gallant. 2.0L inline 4 cyl. or 2.5 V6? Coil packs on top of block on 4 cyl, 3 wires to each, 12V+ on ignition, ground and a 3rd wire. That's tach. Injectors, each set has 2 wires, one colour is common throughout, use any of the non-common. There that's three tach positions (including the one on the DEI list). Window lifts. If your vehicle has one touch switches in the drivers door that stay live for about a minute after turning off the ignition don't even think about window closers. It's so far from your apparent (to me) level of technical expertise from an electrical and mechanical point of view.

kreg357 wrote: Welcome to the forum!  There are many members that can assist you with your install.  While CodeAlarm is not my usual brand, I can answer some of your questions. First, understand that the CA6552 is a generic aftermarket unit that is designed to be flexible enough to handle most normal vehicles.  Not all wires will be necessary.   Notice that there are both (+) and (-) Door Trigger Inputs.  Depending on the vehicle, only one of them will be used. Second, it appears that the CA6552 system is an alarm / remote start / keyless entry unit.  For the remote start portion to work, I believe you will need a transponder bypass module.  Looks like Mitsubishi started incorporating transponders into the Eclipse in 2000. You can verify this by wrapping your keyhead in several layers of aluminum foil and trying to start your car.  There doesn't appear to be any data style units for your car so you will need a spare key and a universal transponder bypass module like the DEI 556UW.  To answer your first question, the Blue/Black Ign3 wire would be used to control the bypass module, if one is required.  It does have other uses depending on the vehicles' needs. The second answer is:  Your car has one Ignition wire, one Starter wire and two Accessory wires.  While you could use the supplied relay for that, an easier way is to program the Pink/White Ignition2 wire to Accessory2 and use that Pink/White wire for the vehicles ACC2 wire. Typically the AUX's are optional.  They can be used to do various things like widow open & close, turn on the defroster, etc.

Thank you for so kind answer. IT's really encourage for future work and help. I have bypass module DEI 556 UW, that I'm going install after will see that alarm working)) so there would be some more questions or may be not. Yes, and I need to do spare key. My car is A/T I don't see my second Accessory wire as I looked in my ignition harness, may be I should look some different place. You can see as it from official wires location picture from my first post. [QUOTE]Where does one start? The first comment would be to take this to a pro and get it done properly but let's have a go. If you don't understand, more proof of my first sentence. 1)Blue/black also known as a GWR or status output wire. Connects to the blue on your 556 2)Violet/black. This wire acts as a trigger for the extra window close modules etc. In that instance you program it as a timed (20) seconds or a latched output. Or use the negative when armed (GWA) wire, probably orange. 3)Ignore. Your GREEN goes to the GREEN/ YELLOW wire that switches to ground when the door opens. As shown on the (best available) crib sheet you printed out. 4)Ignore 5)Goes to parking brake switch or dash warning light on a manual, NSS wire on your engine management if the vehicle has one (I doubt it or DEI would have mentioned it on the above list). On an auto, either to ground or to the reverse light feed, gear shift, rear of gauges or floor loom. Verify the colour at the rear light cluster. 6)This instruction again see DEI list can't be more logical. If this gives you grief..... 7)Irrelevant, read the DEI list YET AGAIN and tell me if you have a second starter. 8)Wrong Use the GWA wire see above and this diagram, I've corrected for the Mits and the Code colours:- BF3_starter_cut.bmp You will need 3 1N4004 diodes, one may already be on that relay. As you can see, dead easy. [/QUOTE] Thanks too for answer . 1.No questions 2.No questions 3. Green from door trigger (-) just used. 4. As my friend said according to question #4 This is used typically when you add this remoter starter to an existing alarm system or to OE keyless entry. You don't need it for most applications. So, it's like if I'm going install second one ? 5.I have A/t car Here what answer on this question I got before and it's a little bit different with your If your vehicle is a manual transmission this wire MAY be used IF this model is capable of being used safely on such a car. This is right ? Because person said just ignore it, and remote still will work. What's your opinion. 6. Yeap, I'm going to find this tach switch, won't connect it to coil or injector. 7. No I haven't, I looked in my starter diagram ( i'm going post picture later) and don't see it also there no 2nd starter in ignition harness's 8. Thanks a lot for this diagram. I'm going to do this . I see diode or resistor...mmm dummy, going post picture for you . It's connected in parallel 87-30 [QUOTE]The Neutral Safety Input should be connected to an ECM wire that shows (-) when the transmission is in Park or Neutral. On your car, Code Alarm data has this info : Neutral Safety BLACK/ RED (-) PARK AND NEUTRAL SWITCH On some vehicles, it is connected to the Parking Brake wire.[/QUOTE] Parking wire (-) or (+) ? Also what is ECM. Can you explain and where is to look for it. [QUOTE]Yes I vaguely heard the notification over my phone as I was drifting off to sleep, the PC was off so here I am. I just realised that this is probably the same vehicle under the skin as my old 99 Gallant. 2.0L inline 4 cyl. or 2.5 V6? Coil packs on top of block on 4 cyl, 3 wires to each, 12V+ on ignition, ground and a 3rd wire. That's tach. Injectors, each set has 2 wires, one colour is common throughout, use any of the non-common. There that's three tach positions (including the one on the DEI list). Window lifts. If your vehicle has one touch switches in the drivers door that stay live for about a minute after turning off the ignition don't even think about window closers. It's so far from your apparent (to me) level of technical expertise from an electrical and mechanical point of view. ___________________________________[/QUOTE] Yes, It's 4 cyl. probably the design of engine the same . 2 Coils, 4 injectors. From my first picture wire location it's says that tach switch should be near with T-shape terminal in junct. box that what I was looked for. What you mean one touch switch ? It's not stay alive, when you turn off switch the window not working. I would think about them probably after I install alarm ( starter killer and remote control) this is more important for me now Thanks a lot GUYS. Really, when I finish and everything would be fine. Let's go get some beer P.S. I have ton's of pics of the process. I know that this things is obvious for you. But may be for some new guys would be very helpful in future, so I'm going post it tomorrow The degree of your luck depends on your willingness to act

Your queries:- 5) That wire has to see a ground before the remote will activate. On an auto I connect it to the reverse light wire, locations and finding the colour as above. In park or neutral, that wire will be at ground. If a thief gets into your car during the remote start cycle and attempts to move the shift lever out of park, reverse will be the first to engage shutting off the r/start. Parking brake switch at it's base, there will be a switch with a single wire coming off it. That's the alternative though on autos I always go for reverse. This wire always (on any car) reads NEG (-) when the parking brake is engaged.The person who said ignore that wire in Q.5 should be ignored! That wire MUST see a ground for the R/Start to work. 8) Diodes (all 1N4004) no resistors, the one across 85 and 86 NOT 87 and 30, that would blow out the relay's power fuse to 86! It goes across the relay coil, 85 and 86, band to 86 when (as in general convention) 86 is the POS (+) side of the coil. The next question, at a guess BLACK/ red is the reverse light wire I mentioned before. Are you confusing parking brakes and parking lights? All parking brakes will read NEG (-) when activated. Your parking lights wire is POS (+). ECM = engine control module, probably one of two "boxes" mounted at engine bulkhead on centre transmission tunnel in centre console. Last thought Ref: the tach. The fuse box mentioned is in the engine bay, not in the car.

Ken;3301473 wrote: Not trying to be an ass, but have you ever had to redo someone's hack job? If you had this done by a professional it would be installed in about 3-4 hours, not days. Reference the stickied "Eclipse Alarm Install" thread, it answers a few of your questions.

So far, not so well :). But I'm still here and will do it. I'm sure F...k spent whole day on assembling and after assembled all wires ( nothing about remote control ) the horn and siren start chirp like crazy, and only key in ignition for 10 second can stop it, after that it's show that it's arm, everything blinking like should , but nothing going how it should be. 1. The doors not locking, and when I lock them manually they don't unlock. 2. In disarm position I have blinking icon on my fob ( like door was opened ) even it's closed. 3. When opening trunk with key, the alarm not start. Should check tomorrow everything. Never thought that's it take so much time. Plus to make all this wiring it's really a pain in the ass, because they are located it such place. Not very convenient... I have couple theories why the door's is not locking. 1.First, the wire orange and light green black is not that wires that need for Lock, Unlock and Arm,Disarm. So R/S not get information from key cylinder. 2. Or I screwed up with door pin, and it's not get information that's why it's think that door is ajar. 3. If the lock switch is working, like in loop may be it's give the signal to R/S that passenger lock switch is hacked. Because, right now I don't have passenger window switch with lock button. 4. I have not just simple negative lock.    But:     a) Reverse polarity locks - Rest in ground and register positive voltage when the lock and Unlock switches are activated.     b) Negative Multiplexed locks - variable ground when switch activated If this is going be true I would need additional parts to install for appropriate work of car alarm. Huh..will do tomorrow double checking for each variant. There some problem that I going figure out. For sure. If somebody have some suggestions would be appreciated to hear them. The degree of your luck depends on your willingness to act

My first line coming back to haunt you. Never met a Mits (and I've owned 3 Gallants between 84 and up to two years ago, installed to Colts, Gallants, Pajero/Montero/Shogun FTO and GTO), EVERY SINGLE VEHICLE HAD 2 WIRE NEG LOCKING Go to a wreckers yard, obtain a parking light bulb, holder and some (a few inches) of attached wiring and use that as a tester. Forget DMMs that's more than adequate, still a Snap-On CT-42 tester would be even better! Close all doors bar your access, throw the tongue over in the lock, make sure the lock button and lock/unlock work freely. Using the test bulb apply one wire to ground and the other to each suspected trigger wire, that should throw the lock/unlock. I bought my last Gallant in 06, one day to remove existing (POS Italian alarm), install new alarm and separate R/S, h/lamp flash, s/fit trunk solenoid (Euro vehicles still use a lever by the front seat), hide the alarm LED in clock fascia, and 2 x 530t window/closers, Alpine head unit and autochanger and Bluetooth kit. =1.5 days* with no crib sheet or foreknowledge and I'm 66 next month. This vehicle is one of the easiest in the world to do. Your problems. Lack of knowledge. Too much writing about the problems. Not enough testing. Please read my bottom lines about testing and assuming. You've taken the list in your first post as gospel and haven't tested or verified ANYTHING beforehand, only after failure. *The right tools help.