transponder bypass

Hi all,

I have installed my first remote start and have not been succesful programming the transponder bypass for my 2002 Durango. The bypass i bought (back in 2004) is the type that wraps around the key cylinder after you program it by holding up to the cylinder while powering the IGN1 wire.

My question is, after looking for a replacement, why do they sell these data to data type bypasses when all you need is the wire type like I bought? Do they not work and is that why mine didn't program? Why would you want to wire the door locks, etc to the bypass? i have already completed all that wiring with appropriate relays and resisors and diodes without the bypass.

Should i just buy another coil type or do I need one of these data types. I'm new at this so forgive my ignorance.

Thanks, Jim

All in all I need something and am looking for some advice

Do you know what model of bypass you have? Bypass units that wrap around the key cylinder are tricky to get right sometimes. And some can only be programmed correctly once and otherwise it won't work again. The newer data modules provide direct integration with the vehicle's anti-theft system which is more reliable and much simpler to connect than the type you are referring to.

I'm at work but I think it is a PKU-CH. It is old and I remember readin something somewhere about only getting one shot with programming it so that very well could be the issue considering that the first attempt didn't seem to go well in regards to what was suppose to happen with the security light.

But it is the direct integration of the newer ones that confuse me. My remote start wires to the arm/disarm wire which also controls the lock, unlock. They also offer many other interfaces that i have already done with the remote start. Why?

I ssume they are optional.

Thanks, Jim

Some modules do controls other functions such as door locks, parking lights, factory alarm control, trunk pop, etc. These features are dependent on the year and model of vehicle as they won't work on every vehicle. Depending on the vehicle, a data module provides a quicker way to do locks and other features, as well the immobilizer bypass. Some modules only control the immobilizer bypass thru data. One of the benefits to using a data module is, if it doesn't program the first time, you can usually try again until it works. I recommend the Fortin INT-SL+ for that vehicle. It only controls the immobilizer via data. It only requires about 4 wires and programs right away with more reliability than the ring around the key cylinder. And if it doesn't program correctly the first time, you can keep trying until it does. It's not a one-time use module.

shortcircuit161 wrote: Some modules do controls other functions such as door locks, parking lights, factory alarm control, trunk pop, etc. These features are dependent on the year and model of vehicle as they won't work on every vehicle. Depending on the vehicle, a data module provides a quicker way to do locks and other features, as well the immobilizer bypass. Some modules only control the immobilizer bypass thru data. One of the benefits to using a data module is, if it doesn't program the first time, you can usually try again until it works. I recommend the Fortin INT-SL+ for that vehicle. It only controls the immobilizer via data. It only requires about 4 wires and programs right away with more reliability than the ring around the key cylinder. And if it doesn't program correctly the first time, you can keep trying until it does. It's not a one-time use module.

Thank you, that makes sense. I was actually looking at the INT-SL+ as it was recommended from another member. It does have the other features such as door status, factory alarm, tach, etc but i have alread done all that, so would you just ignore that part of it?

I'm curious how it handles the requirements for relays and diodes and resistors such as I had to do for the door locks, door status, etc? Do you have to load vehicle specific firmware? If so, what is your advice, should I keep it wired to the remote or use the features that come with the bypass unit?

Thanks for your help.

The INT-SL+ doesn't control door locks or any other convenience features on that model year. It only controls the immobilizer. All the other features would have to be wired directly from the remote starter to the truck (you've already taken care of that). Since this is a module that can be used on many different vehicles, the picture on the install manual will show additional wires (locks, trunk release, etc), but those are not used on your vehicle and can be ignored. Here is a link to the manual - https://ifar.ca/en/download/3966/int-sl%2B_installation_guide.rev-20120308.pdf You would follow Install Type 6 on the right side "without datalink". The only wires needed are the yellow, yellow/black, pink, blue and purple.   All other wires aren't needed in your setup. The firmware is already preloaded so there is no need to flash it to your vehicle. Just wire it up, program it and you're done.   

shortcircuit161 wrote: The INT-SL+ doesn't control door locks or any other convenience features on that model year. It only controls the immobilizer. All the other features would have to be wired directly from the remote starter to the truck (you've already taken care of that). Since this is a module that can be used on many different vehicles, the picture on the install manual will show additional wires (locks, trunk release, etc), but those are not used on your vehicle and can be ignored. Here is a link to the manual - https://ifar.ca/en/download/3966/int-sl%2B_installation_guide.rev-20120308.pdf You would follow Install Type 6 on the right side "without datalink". The only wires needed are the yellow, yellow/black, pink, blue and purple.   All other wires aren't needed in your setup. The firmware is already preloaded so there is no need to flash it to your vehicle. Just wire it up, program it and you're done.

Thanks...........

One more question (sorry to be a pain): I searched for this product and found it on Amazon in a couple of places with different labels and different names but all saying INT-SL+.

Fortin lists approved distributors but they want quite a bit more than Amazon. Could they be older versions or something like that on Amazon? Are all INT-SL+ the same? It doesn't look like they are. I'm thinking it the version.

Thanks again

They should all be the same as long as it's INT-SL+ and not the older INT-SL. They either have the name Fortin or Crimestopper on the package. The ones I buy from my distributor say Crimestopper on the bag.

ok thanks......these say crimestopper and I did notice that some say INT-SL but are advertised as INT-SL+

So i called Fortin after ordering the INT-SL+ because the wiring diagram #6 (without Datalink) shows other connections.Anyways, they said that i have to connect the door trigger, lock and unlock, (-) while running) wires 'from the remote start unit" to the INT-SL+.

This means that I disconnect the relays and resistors and diodes that I wired already. Now I am confused because they said I have to do this. Keep in mind that I have not been successful with the ability to unlock the car with the remote. I can unlock it with the factory remote.

Thoughts? Could it be that this car has to be wired to the INT-SL+ this way?

Sorry for the confusion