avital 4103 2006 camry

Hello everyone! My name is Caleb, I am new here (also to the remote start install world) and I have a question about my install of avital 4103 in a 2006 Camry. So I put this unit into my 1999 accord no problems. I has a bypass that hardwired to my car and it programed itself and all is good there......Now on to the Camry. I have been stuck all weekend trying to wire a relay to my second starter. I have read all through these forums and tried the different connection combinations. Finally the combo I got to kinda work was: 12v to 86 and 87, 85 to orange wire on avital 4 pin (-) accessory output and 30 to the second BLK/YLLW wire at ignition switch. ALSO I have to ground the purple (-) starter output to get the engine to turn over. Now the car starts but dies quickly. I have the universal bypass with the key in the box and wired around the ignition. The car will stay running with the other key in the ignition. So what have I done wrong? Am I going to ruin something if I wire the relay in that manner? And is my only problem the universal bypass is not wiRED / working correctly? Thank you for any help!

On the Starter2 relay wiring, Relay Pin 85 should go to the 4103 Purple (-) Starter Output, not the (-) Accessory Output wire.

If this doesn't work because the 4103's (-) Starter Output wire has a problem, you can wire the Starter2 relay like this :Relay Pin 86 to Avital thick Purple Starter Output ( which also goes to the Camry Starter1 wire )Relay Pin 85 to Avital H2/5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT *** Set to 2nd StatusRelay Pin 87 to +12V consatnt thru 20 Amp fuseRelay Pin 30 to Camry Starter2 wire @ ignition harness

What brand of universal bypass module are you using?  The problem could be that the 4103 BLUE STATUS OUTPUT wire

is not connected to the bypass Ground When Running input wire.

Soldering is fun!

I have the Directed universal bypass module. Have the blue status wire on the avital connected to the blue wire on the bypass. And the bypass has power and ground.

And IHOH you will need a diode 1N4004 across the terminals 85 and 86, band to 86 of that relay, it's MANDATORY else you will cook the 4103. When you say starts and dies quickly are we talking 1-2 seconds or 10-15 seconds? If the first then yes the second starter and possibly the by-pass, if the second you haven't learned tach properly.

Please excuse my ignorance but what is IHOH? Also it starts and runs for 2-3 seconds then stops. If I put another key in the ignition it starts, runs, ands stays on. That points me to the bypass. Do I really need a diode? I did not read that anywhere.

IHOH is a very colloquial term used only on this forum and coined while an esteemed member was

placed on an involuntary furlough.  IHOH = In Honor Of Howie II  Howard is a big advocate of protective diodes.

The diode across relay's coil ( pins 85 to 86 ) is a quenching diode to prevent damage to the

remote starter when the coils field collapses and possibly generates a 200v impulse.  Here isan excerpt from this relay info link :   http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm

Quenching Diodes:

Anytime that a relay coil is driven by a circuit that is not specifically designed to drive a relay, you should use a

quenching/suppression diode connected in parallel with the relay coil. The diagram below will show the connection

of the diode. Initially, you may think the diode serves no purpose because the voltage applied to the relay cannot

pass through the diode. This is true when the relay is energized. The diode comes into play when the power source

is removed from the relay coil. When power is applied to the relay coil, a magnetic field is created and energy is

stored in the coil. When power is removed, the magnetic field collapses causing a reverse voltage to be generated

(it's called inductive kickback or back EMF). The back EMF can easily reach 200 volts. The diode will absorb the

reverse voltage spike. This voltage, if not absorbed by the diode, will cause premature failure of switch contacts

and may cause the failure of power switching transistors. You can use virtually any type of rectifier or switching

diode (i.e. 1N4001, 1N4002, 1N400x... or Radio Shack part #s 276-1101, 276-1102, 276-1103, 276-1104).

Soldering is fun!

Are you sure it has a transponder key? What trimline and what motor is this Camry? Also Kreg is right; you're now powering up that extra BLACK / YELLOW like an accessory, rather than a starter. You want the small purple to trigger the relay. Also, while it's always best to be testing all the wiring you do, a quick thing is to put your hand on that relay you made, and you should be able to feel it click on ONLY when the remote starter is starting the car. I have the utmost respect for Howie, and he's one of our best forum members here, but I do also want to say that I've used those outputs from the 4103 to trigger relays without using any diodes, and without problems. However, he's right that putting that quenching diode on a relay is good practice, although few installers do this.

Thank you to all for the help. I have not had time to try any of the suggestions yet. To Chris I have a transponder key for sure. I made a copy of the factory key without the expensive transponder electronics inside and the key does not start my car. How do I know if I fried the purple second output on the 4103? When I had my relay wired the "correct way" (no diode) and tried the remote start, the purple wire on the 4103 never energized. I have the same HU in my accord, should I swap them and try the purple output again? The purple output was not used in my Accord.

Chris, someone else asked me why the diode, proceeded to leave it off and cooked his lock and aux circuits! I wouldn't risk it with Avital products. I found out the hard way what a kick the relay gives about 40 years ago!

Ok first of all let me tell you it is freezing here in michigan!! I wired the relay with a diode and the way kreg told me to and nothing. So I wired it back the way it is supposed to be with the purple second starter output on the avital connected on the relay and again nothing. When say nothing I mean the starter activates but no crank. So I then hit the remote start again and touch a ground wire to the purple second starter out and it cranks and runs and stays running. I also repositioned the loop on the immobilizer and the remote starter stays running but only if I touch s ground wire to the purple on the avital second starter output. So I'm thinking a ground wire somewhere is not connected or connected properly? I grounded the avital main ground on the 9 pin harness and also the gray and white wire on the 5 pin. I did not use the toggle switch for the gray and white because I didn't use the toggle on my accord. And I also grounded the immobilizer. All at the same point. Please help. I'm starting to loose my mind!