jeep grand cherokee and avital 4113

Hey all! I’m new to the forum and I’m in desperate need of help. I have an Avital 4113 remote starter that I am trying to install in my 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee but for the life of me I can’t get it to work. I have checked and rechecked that I have all the wires hooked up correctly from the remote start module to their respective wires underneath the dashboard but it still won’t work. I have grounded the neutral safety switch, connected the tachometer input wire and the hood pin wire, but still nothing. The best I can get is I can get the red light on the module or “brain” of the remote starter to light up but I can’t get it to blink like the manual says it should, and I can’t get any of the relays inside the module to click and send power to the ignition circuit and starter. At first I thought my problem was the remotes that came with the remote starter but today I tried to activate the remote starter manually by connecting a wire on one of the wiring harnesses to ground as described in the manual. Even with this technique (which is presumably is included in the manual for the installer to test to see if they have everything hooked up correctly, clearly I don’t) I simply can’t get the remote starter to work. Does anyone have any guidance or suggestions for what the problem could be here? At this point I’m hoping for a big “aha” moment or the conclusion that the brain/module of the remote starter is defective. Thanks in advance for any help!

Isn't a by-pass required for this vehicle? If so and you've attended to that, list your Avital wiring next to where you've connected it to the vehicle wiring. The post is too vague otherwise, too many wiring errors possible without us knowing what and where to.

Howie is correct.

Please list the wires from the avital that are connected to what on the Jeep. Also what bypass is being used and those wires. This gives us a starting point.

Did you test the vehicles wiring with a DMM?  Are your connections scotchlocked, T-Taps or soldered?

When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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All the red and RED / + secondary connected to a good 12v+ constant, ignition, fuse box supply or battery? Good ground? Have you tested voltage from ground point to above? Etc. Etc. Etc. Does the factory security light stay on if present? Do the instrument panel (gauges) come on when you initiate R/S? That's why we want your connection list please.

Assuming you need a by-pass, this is one DB-ALL DB-ALL - 401.CHRYSLER2 1.09.from DEI Expresskit Or Fortin EVO-All or INT-SL+ from Fortin. Or ADS-AL-CA DL CH6 from idatalink. Google them. Any of them would have saved you loads of time on the install. You should have posted BEFORE installing. That's all the P's

Check your Factory ignition keys.  If they are Gray, you need a bypass module.  If they are Black,

or you are currently using a plain metal hardware store copy, then no bypass module is needed.

At a minimum, these are the wires you should have connected.

H1/8 BLACK GROUND          solder on terminal ring and connect to clean, unpainted, solid metal chassis boltH1/9 WHITE (+/-) LIGHT FLASH  set to (+)   Yellow @ Headlight switch  ***see relay wiring below

1 PINK (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO IGNITION CIRCUIT          Dark Blue @ Ignition switch harness

2 PURPLE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO STARTER CIRCUIT Yellow @ Ignition switch harness   3 ORANGE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT       RED / Black @ Ignition switch harness   4 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12 INPUT   Red @ Ignition switch harness   5 PINK/WHITE (+) PROGRAMMED to ACCESSORY BLACK/ Orange @ Ignition switch harness   6 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT           Pink/Black @ Ignition switch harness  

H2/1 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT Chassis ground

H2/2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE     See note belowH2/3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE          WHITE/ TAN (+)  @ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL H2/4 GRAY (-) HOOD PINSWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE           to Avital hood pin switch supplied in kit

Tach Note :

4.7L engine, go to any coil and use any wire that is NOT DARK GREEN/ ORANGE.   4.0L engine, use any wire with a TAN STRIPE at the coil pack.

Parking Light Relay ( 30/40 Amp SPDT, 1N4007 diode, 1300 ohm 1/4 watt resistor )

Relay Pin 85 to Chassis groundRelay Pin 86 to Avital 4113 H1/9 White (+) Parking Light OutputRelay Pin 87a to headlight switch side of cut Yellow wireRealy Pin 30 to vehicle side of cut Yellow wireRelay Pin 87 to chassis ground thru 1300 ohm resistorConnect 1N4007 diode across relay Pins 85 to 86 with band towards Pin 86***Note some wire guide listings have resistor value of 915 ohms.

You will have to program the Avital 4113 to Tach Mode and do a Tach Learn prior to a remote start.

Also program the Selectable Ignition Pink/White output to Accessory.

Soldering is fun!

Thanks for getting back to me guys. Sorry about my vague post, I didn’t want to bore anyone with a really long post with all of my wiring connections. And in response to smokeman1 I have the wires threaded through one another (making a hole in the wire on the ignition harness, and then pushing the wire from the remote starter through the hole) wrapped around, then soldered and taped up. I will attach a pdf of the Avital 4113 Installation Guide if anyone wants to take look at it Here are all my wiring connections: PDF: http://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/IG/Avital/N4113_2008-07print.pdf Primary Harness (H1), 9-pin harness: •     H1/1 (Light GREEN/ Black): Connected to the Light GREEN/ Orange wire in the driver’s side door connector [Factory Alarm Disarm] •     H1/2 (GREEN / WHITE): Not hooked up (this model of Jeeps doesn’t have a factory rearm wire) [Factory Alarm Rearm] •     H1/3 (Yellow): Connected to Dark Blue wire in ignition harness [Ignition Out (to alarm)] •     H1/4 (WHITE/ Blue): Connected to Push-button switch connected to a ground wire (to manual activate remote starter and test if it is working) [Activation Input] •     H1/5 (Orange): Not Hooked up (this feature is not applicable for the one button remote system that I have) [Ground when locked input] •     H1/6 (Brown): Not Hooked up (this feature is not applicable for the one button remote system that I have) [Horn Output] •     H1/7 (RED / White): Not Hooked up (SUVs don’t have a trunk release, and this feature is not applicable for the one button remote system that I have) [Trunk Release] •     H1/8 (Black): Connected to a factory bolt underneath the dashboard with a ring connector [Chassis Ground Connection] •     H1/9 (White): Connected to the parking light wire in the steering column through a 463 ohm resistor [Light Flash Output] Heavy Gauge Harness, 6-pin harness: •     1 (Pink): Connected to the Dark Blue wire in the ignition harness [Output to Ignition Circuit] •     2 (Purple): Connected to yellow wire in ignition harness [Output to starter circuit] •     3 (Orange): Connected to RED / Black Wire in ignition harness [Output to Accessory Circuit] •     4 (Red): Connected to Red wire in ignition harness [30 amp high current 12 volt input] •     5 (Pink/White) Connected to BLACK/ Orange wire in ignition harness [Programmable output for accessory or ignition] •     6 (Red): Connected to Red wire in ignition harness (same as H2/4) [30 amp high current 12 volt input] Remote Start Harness (H2), 5-pin harness: •     H2/1 (BLACK/ White): Connected to ground connection, same factory bolt as H1/8 (I removed the optional toggle switch and connected it directly to ground) [Neutral Safety Switch Input] •     H2/2 (Violet/White): Connected to the Tan/Red wire on the first spark plug coil [Tachometer Input Wire] •     H2/3 (Brown): Connected to the WHITE/ Tan wire at the brake switch [Brake Switch Shutdown Wire] •     H2/4 (Gray): Connected to the hood pinswitch mounted in the front of the engine bay [Hood Pinswitch shutdown wire] •     H2/5 (Blue/White): Not hooked up [Rear defogger ouput]

Oh and in response to needing a bypass yes I need one and yes I have one (a 556uw made by Directed Electronics) but it is not hooked up at the moment. For now I have the factory immobilizer hooked up and when I test the remote starter I put my key in the ignition (without turning it of course) so the RFID signal can be read by the immobilizer and it won’t shut down the car. However even if didn’t put my key in the ignition for the RFID signal to be read would the car at least start, but shut down soon after?

w/out imobilizer it would start then die

H1/3 (Yellow): Connected to Dark Blue wire in ignition harness [Ignition Out (to alarm)] Not needed. Can't really see what else you've done wrong. Have you checked for voltage between your ground and 12V+ supplies, after the fuse? Also try the outputs, pink, pink/white, violet (purple) and orange when you initiate the R/S. You STILL haven't answered my question, do the ignition lights come on?