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did i damage my remote start?


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husyor 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: April 15, 2013
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: April 15, 2013 at 4:20 PM / IP Logged  
So this was my first install and really had no clue to what I was doing. Basically though, I am wondering if I damaged my trunk release output? I originally had the -200mA trigger from the alarm hooked up to the +12v for the trunk. Of course it didn't work and have since tried connecting a relay. I have connected 30 and 86 to +12v and 85 the -200mA from the alarm and 87 to the trunk wire. I used a multimeter and have detected a small positive voltage when I press the trunk button on the remote to see if there is something there but when all is said and done, the relay doesn't work. When I have it wired up to the relay, I get +12v at all the terminals except 87. I wouldn't think I should get that at 85. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
husyor 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: April 15, 2013
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: April 15, 2013 at 4:21 PM / IP Logged  
A little more information just in case. Its a Viper 4103 on a 98 mustang.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: April 15, 2013 at 5:25 PM / IP Logged  
Test the RED / white from the Viper, it should go to NEG (-) when you press and hold the trunk release button for about 2 seconds.
You will destroy the R/S aux circuits unless you follow this diagram:-
Z18_trunk_release.bmp
The lack of a diode is why you see 12 volts at 85.
The diode is absolutely mandatory.
Also known as a back EMF quenching diode.
when a relay shuts down the coil "spikes" an EMF or EMP of about 200 volts.
husyor 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: April 15, 2013
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: April 16, 2013 at 3:37 PM / IP Logged  
So with the positive side of the multimeter connected to the wire and the other side grounded, when I hold AUX down, I get about +.5-1v coming out of the remote start unit. I assume it is damaged then?
Also, if I were to get another unit, would the diode need to be part of the relay I assume? If so, how does this one look?
http://www./itm/Automotive-Relay-12V-40Amp-5-Pin-Changover-Diode-Genuine-Tyco-TE-Part-/140938481507#vi-content
I couldn't really find any otherwise. I appreciate all the help.
husyor 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: April 15, 2013
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: April 16, 2013 at 3:38 PM / IP Logged  
husyor 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: April 15, 2013
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: April 16, 2013 at 4:01 PM / IP Logged  
I guess it doesn't like ebay listings....
This is the listing description.
Automotive Relay 12VDC 40 Amp 5 Pin Changeover With Diode
This is a genuine Tyco part. Not a cheap imitation.
Product information:
For sale is a Standard Mini ISO Relay 12VDC coil, 40Amp, Single Pole Changeover Contact
With Protection Diode Across The Coil
This relay fits into standard relay base using 6.35mm terminals.
Coil data
Nominal voltage 12VDC
Operate voltage 7.8VDC
Release voltage 1.2VDC
Coil resistance 90Ω +/-10%
Ambient temperature -40to +85 °C
Terminals: Brass Unplated
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: April 16, 2013 at 4:49 PM / IP Logged  
Yes that's the type, you MUST get a diode, Radio Shack etc. and use it.
No you're testing is wrong, POS (red) probe to a 12V+ constant, black to RED / white.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: April 16, 2013 at 4:50 PM / IP Logged  
Solder the diode across the terminal bases, band to 86.
husyor 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: April 15, 2013
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: April 19, 2013 at 8:57 PM / IP Logged  
Ok. I want to say thank you again and sorry for being so ignorant on this subject.
So I wired it up and soldered the diode and it's not working. I'm thinking I damaged the remote start unit. I tested the alarm out wire with a multimeter. With the wire connected to the relay, the positive side of the multimeter on +12v and the negative to the wire, I get 0v and then after pressing the button, I get about +.5v.
With the wire not connected to the relay and just connected to the negative side of the multimeter, with the positive side on +12v, I get 0v until after pressing the button, then I get +12v.
Whats the verdict? Am I still doing something wrong?
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: April 20, 2013 at 12:02 AM / IP Logged  
"With the wire not connected to the relay and just connected to the negative side of the multimeter, with the positive side on +12v, I get 0v until after pressing the button, then I get +12v".
That reading would be correct after about 2 seconds until releasing the aux. so back to your relay wiring.
Incorrectly wired?
Diode wrong way round?
Wire up relay and test the output at 30, should be 12V+ from 0v.
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