python 4206p r/s in 2006 f 150

Hi everyone, I'm newly registered to this forum, but I've done hours of browsing trying to learn as much as I can. Go easy on me Alright, I've been gathering as much info as I can for my particular install before I even think about starting. Thanks to this site, I have acquired the appropriate wiring table for my truck. Also, I learned that the directed 1100F is the better immobilizer bypass module for my truck. I wasn't able to find a install pictorial for my year of truck. Maybe there is one that applies to my truck of which I am unaware? I have experience with car audio, but I have never tampered with remote start units. I could have a unit installed for me, but I'd much rather learn something new during the process. My questions would be: what is a good remote start unit that is easily programmed, has a 2000 ft or more range, two way, good remote battery life, all for the low 100 dollar price range? I found the python 4206p sold on Amazon for about 115. Anybody have other recommendations? Also, for my particular truck, is there any additional hardware I'll need to do it right (and safely)? (Diodes for BCM? Extra inline fuses and whatever else) As someone who has never installed one before, I'd like to dive in with all of the necessary tools and hardware. Any heads up or gotchyas would be much, much appreciated. Thanks!

Hi and welcome to the 12 Volt!

For the money, you can't beat the 1100F bypass module.  There should be an install guide in the Downloads section.  The guide

I have does list your truck.  You can go to the iDatalink WEB site, look up your truck and use the AS TBSL TI install guide to getthe transponder connector type, location, wire colors and pin numbers. 

If I remember correctly, the hardest part of that truck ( 2004 - 2007 are the same ) is finding the Lock and Unlock wires.  They are

in a bundle of about 100 wires in the drivers door sill heading towards the rear of the truck.

If you are just doing a remote start with keyless entry on a F150 gas engine with power locks, there isn't anything else you need

other than the R/S and the bypass.  I would suggest getting a mercury tilt switch and using that instead of the kit supplied pinswitch.  No holes to drill and they last a lot longer.

Finding a quality long range, two-way R/S w/keyless entry system for $100 will be a challenge.  Stick with a well known brand and

you will be fine.

Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the info! So really a person is only concerned with the BCM if installing an alarm unit, right? I'm sure I'll have fun hunting down those door unlock wires. What do you recommend for wire testing? This may a dumb question, but is it effective to use A DMM for testing through wire shielding or is it best to get a probe with a light for that situation? I can imagine looking for voltage on the door wires without a pin connector in site to touch would be a pain using a DMM... Mercury tilt sensor sounds like a good idea. Just for my own knowledge, how are those affected by driving or being parked on a steep incline? Thanks again!

For checking wires like ignition, door triggers and locks, I use a LED test probe.  It draws a mere 3mA so it is very computer friendly.  You can see it in use and get more info in this Pictorial :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=133496&tpn=1&PN=1   Bulldog Security remote starter kits include a cute LED test probe.  They draw 17mA but are very handy.

I usually try to make the R/S's connections in the drivers dash / kick panel area.  The BCM on that truck is on the drivers side rear cabin wall, I think.

Mercury switches aren't good for alarm installs due to the amount the hood has to be raised before it will trigger.  As you pointed out, using them for the hood pin on a remote start install in Pittsburgh or San Francisco wouldn't be a good idea, either.  I usually adjust them to trigger when the hood is about 2/3's open.  That will allow proper operation when parked on normal slopes.

Think if you do some searches on that model/series truck, you will find a picture of the door lock wires.  Still have to test, though.  Wait, I found it!

Soldering is fun!

Awesome. I appreciate your time. I'll keep this posted on how everything goes.

Link to a youtube video of the basic wiring for a remote start. The video shows lights being energized to simulate the vehicles Ignition, Accessory, and Starter circuits. As well as parking lights, dome light, and a relay activated with the 200mA circuit. http://youtu.be/uq1ETQxMp7MWhen all else fails, Read the Instructions

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Thanks! That's a great video.

I've been working through the wiring template for my install. Here is what I have so far... Vehicle Information: 2006 Ford F-150 XLT 5.4L    Alarm / Remote Start Unit: Python 4206P    Bypass Module: Directed 1100F    Alarm / Remote Start / Bypass Unit   Vehicle Connection     Color     Description     Color     Polarity     Location: H1/1      RED      (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT +      H1/2      BLACK      (-) CHASSIS GROUND -     Any good ground point on Chassis H1/3      BROWN      (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT      NA? H1/4      WHITE/ BROWN      LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a light flash relay      Brown Park light wire?     +     Headlight switch or harness in door sill H1/5      WHITE      PIN 30 of LIGHT FLASH RELAY      Brown Park light wire?     +     Headlight switch or harness in door sill H1/6      ORANGE      500 mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT      NA H2/1      PNK/WHITE      (-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT      NA H2/2      BLACK/ WHITE      (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT      Grounded? Ive seen in a couple threads that this is not necessary. True? H2/3      BLUE/WHITE      (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT      NA H2/4      GREEN/ BLACK      (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT      NA H2/5      RED / WHITE      (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT      NA H2/6      GREEN      (-) DOOR INPUT**      NA H2/7      BLACK / YELLOW      (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT      BLACK/ Light Blue     +     drivers kick panel, gray plug, pin 6 H2/8      EMPTY      ------------------------------------      NA H2/9      DARK BLUE      (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT      NA H2/10      PINK      (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT      NA H2/11      WHITE/ BLACK      (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT      NA H2/12      VIOLET      (+) DOOR INPUT      NA H2/13      WHITE/ VIOLET      (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT      NA H2/14      VIOLET/BLACK      (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT      NA H2/15      ORANGE / BLACK      (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT      NA H2/16      BROWN      (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT      Lt. Green     +     brake pedal switch H2/17      GRAY      (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO)      Needed Run through firewall H2/18      VIOLET / YELLOW      (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT      NA H2/19      BLUE**      FACTORY HORN INPUT (Use Jumper to set polarity)      Dk Blue **     -     steering column harness. Do I only need this for the "alarm" portion of the two way remote? H2/20      GRAY/BLACK      (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT      NA H2/21      WHITE/ BLUE      ACTIVATION INPUT      NA H2/22      ORANGE      (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT      NA H2/23      VIOLET/WHITE      TACHOMETER INPUT      Not RED / lt green or red     AC     any ignition coil or fuel injector H2/24      GREEN / WHITE      (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT      NA H3/1      PINK      (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT      Dark Blue/Light Green     +     Ign switch harness H3/2      RED / WHITE      +12V FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2/FLEX RELAY INPUT      NA H3/3      ORANGE      (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT      BLACK/ Light Green     +     Ign switch harness H3/4      VIOLET      (+) STARTER OUTPUT      RED / Light Blue     +     Ign switch harness H3/5      RED      +12V FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT      NA H3/6      PINK/WHITE      IGNITION 2/FLEX RELAY OUTPUT      NA H3/7      PINK/BLACK      FLEX RELAY INPUT 87a (IF REQUIRED) OF FLEX RELAY      NA H3/8      RED / BLACK      +12V FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT      Light GREEN/ Purple     +     Ignition switch harness 1     BLUE      (-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT      Pink/Light Green     Type B     Drivers door boot/sill 2     EMPTY      NOT USED      NA 3     GREEN      (-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT      Pink / YELLOW     Type B      Drivers door boot/sill * The Normally Closed setting will only work if one of the vehicle's doors is connected. If more than one door is to be monitored, then it is recommended to use the Xpresskit DTIMAZDA or tech tip # 1921 on www.directechs.com to interface with these types of vehicles. ** This optional input can can be connected to the horn circuit (+ or -). When this wire receives an input for a minimum of .5 seconds, the system reports a trigger on the 2way remote. This is useful on vehicles that have a factory security system that can be armed/disarmed with our system. The system will not report that a zone has been triggered when unlocking with the remote and is not available with the 1-way re- mote.       ------------------------------------------------------------ I have a feeling the formatting is not going to be so good.... I used this to get my wire colors and locations. Seems to be in line with all of the other ones I've seen. Anyways, I am wondering about the horn trigger input H2/19. I am guessing this is an input to the brain when the horn is sounding so it can radio back to the two way remote notifying you the factory alarm is sounding? What about H1/3. Is this connection necessary? Also H2/2. What's up with this guy? I've seen some people have issues with this connection. Is it necessary? Does this have anything to do with the supplied neutral safety switch in my kit and do i need that installed? I'm confused with the Main harness connections, specifically H1/4 and H1/5. Which one of these do I splice into the brown parking light wire? Lasty, am I completely missing anything? I'm still waiting for the 1100F to come in the mail, so I'll have to figure out how all of that meshes into this. Thanks for your help!        

A few updates...

Vehicle Information:          2006 Ford F-150 XLT 5.4L   

Alarm / Remote Start Unit:          Python 4206P    Bypass Module:          Directed 1100F    Alarm / Remote Start / Bypass Unit   Vehicle Connection     Color     Description            Color     Polarity     Location: H1/1      RED      (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT      +12V constant Light GREEN/ Purple (+)   @ Ignition switch harness H1/2      BLACK      (-) CHASSIS GROUND - Any good ground point on Chassis H1/3      BROWN      (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT          NA         H1/4      WHITE/ BROWN      LIGHT PIN 87a           NA H1/5      WHITE      PIN 30 of LIGHT FLASH RELAY           Brown Park light wire (+)     Headlight switch or harness in door sill H1/6      ORANGE      500 mA G W A OUTPUT       NA

H2/1      PNK/WHITE      (-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT   NA

H2/2      BLACK/ WHITE      (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT          Grounded, if auto trans H2/3      BLUE/WHITE      (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOG OUTPUT     NA H2/4      GREEN/ BLACK      (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT    NA H2/5      RED / WHITE      (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT   NA H2/6      GREEN      (-) DOOR INPUT** NA H2/7      BLACK / YELLOW      (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT     BLACK/ Light Blue     +     drivers kick panel, gray plug, pin 6 H2/8      EMPTY      ------------------------------------ NA H2/9      DARK BLUE      (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT To 1100F, Blue/White GWR Input wireH2/10      PINK      (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT       NA H2/11      WHITE/ BLACK      (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT NA H2/12      VIOLET      (+) DOOR INPUT NA H2/13      WHITE/ VIOLET      (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT NA H2/14      VIOLET/BLACK      (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT            NA H2/15      ORANGE / BLACK      (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT         NA H2/16      BROWN      (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT Lt. Green (+)     brake pedal switch H2/17      GRAY      (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO) Needed          Run through firewall H2/18      VIOLET / YELLOW      (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT               NA H2/19      BLUE**      FACTORY HORN INPUT (Use Jumper 2 set polarity)        NA if the F150 does not have a Factory alarm ( H2/4 is NA )H2/20      GRAY/BLACK      (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT NA H2/21      WHITE/ BLUE      ACTIVATION INPUT NA H2/22      ORANGE      (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT         NA H2/23      VIOLET/WHITE      TACHOMETER INPUT        Not RED / lt green or red (AC)  any ignition coil or F.I. H2/24      GREEN / WHITE      (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT       NA H3/1      PINK      (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT Dark Blue/Light Green     +     Ign switch harness H3/2      RED / WHITE      +12V FUSED (30A) FLEX RELAY INPUT           NA H3/3      ORANGE      (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT   BLACK/ Light Green     +     Ign switch harness H3/4      VIOLET      (+) STARTER OUTPUT        RED / Light Blue     +     Ign switch harness H3/5      RED      +12V FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT Light GREEN/ Purple     +     Ignition switch harnessH3/6      PINK/WHITE      IGNITION 2/FLEX RELAY OUTPUT      NA H3/7      PINK/BLACK      FLEX RELAY INPUT 87a          NA          H3/8      RED / BLACK      +12V FUSED (30A) ACC/STARTER INPUT      Light GREEN/ Purple     +     Ignition switch harness 1     BLUE      (-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT      Pink/Light Green     Type B     Drivers door boot/sill 2     EMPTY      NOT USED      NA 3     GREEN      (-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT        Pink / YELLOW     Type B      Drivers door boot/sill

1100F

4 Pin plugRed to H1/1 RedBlack to H1/2 Black

9 Pin Plug

Pink to H3/1 PinkGREEN/ RED - ECM-RX    to F150, Gray/Orange, Pin 4 @ 4 Pin transponder plugGRAY/RED - ECM-TX       to F150, WHITE/ Light Green, Pin 3 @ 4 Pin transponder plug This connection might not be necessary if the interior lights come on with a Factory RKE Unlock :H2/7      BLACK / YELLOW      (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT BLACK/ Light Blue (+)     drivers kick panel, gray plug, pin 6

Soldering is fun!

H1/3 to Horn Wire Dark Blue(-) not the H2/19 H1/5 is the wire you want to use for parking lights. H2/2 to chassis ground if truck is automatic H2/7 Needs a relay to convert (-) to (+). Does your truck have keyless entry? Does the dome light come on when you press the unlock button? If yes, then H2/7 not needed. H3/5 to 12 volts constantWhen all else fails, Read the Instructions

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