dei remote start won't function 90 accord

Can some please help me troubleshoot this problem? I'm a DIYer, not a pro. I have a 1990 Honda Accord EX, manual transmission. I self installed a Clifford Responder LE Model 3.3x. Added to the standard alarm a back-up battery, proximity sensor, glass break sensor and tilt sensor. All the add-ons are DEI and all work fine. The Valet take-over function works as it should. With the engine running I can put the car in manual transmission mode, exit, arm and lock the car, unlock and reenter.   I can also shut the vehicle down using the remote control. The Remote start mode does not work. I put the running vehicle in manual transmission mode, activate the remote start and exit. The car shuts down properly when I arm via the remote. When next trying to start the vehicle using the remote the parking lights flash and my driver’s side automatic seat belt engages (this is a feature of this particular model and year. When the driver turns the key to ignition, the driver’s seat belt automatically engages.). The seat belt then dis-engages and the light flash / seat belt sequence repeats 2 more times. After the third and final sequence the start-up procedure terminates with the parking lights flashing five times. My remote starting diagnostics chart says 5 flashes indicate the brake wire is active. Anyone have any tips on how to correct this error?

Have you changed the brake lights to LED's recently?

Hmm, that brake-light diagnostic code is interesting, because it doesn't make sense in this case. Generally, a remote starter will make three attempts to start the car if it doesn't see the engine starting----suppose the car were out of gas, for example. There would be three start attempts. On the other hand, if the unit sees a safety input, such as the brake coming on or the hood being opened, it should shut down right away and never try again, for safety reasons. So, if your system is making three attempts, it's not going to be brake, I don't think. You could temporarily disconnect the brake wire as a troubleshooting tool. Have you tried sitting in the car with your foot on the clutch, and engaging the remote starter then? That would be a quick way to test if you have your clutch-switch wiring right or not. It might also be interesting to temporarily program the system for automatic-transmission mode and see if that changes anything. NOTE: I'm sure you know this, but during these troubleshooting steps you're going to be temporarily eliminating some of the manual-transmission safety features. I would recommend ALWAYS making your tests while sitting fully normally in the driver's seat, ready to apply brakes, clutch, shift to neutral in the event the car starts when it shouldn't.

Thanks Chris I didn't think of that, just that I've seen LED lighting conversions that need a blocking diode also some BMWs send a signal back through the brake lights on start, need an aux timed 10 seconds linked to remote start triggering a relay to open that circuit, i.e. isolate it from the brake feed back to the R/S. I agree with first disconnecting that brake feed, also the safety precautions.

No LED conversion. Brake lights are stock. I'll try the "foot on clutch" test. I don't understand how to disconnect the brake wire as a test. Just disconnect the wire that taps into the brake lights so it would never send a signal to the alarm brain? Thanks for the input!

Yes.

Probably posting when not needed as usual, but maybe it will help. I always leave the unit in automatic mode with the ebrake applied to the BLACK/ white. This tells me everything else is good to go or not and is MUCH easier to pin point issues. I always make sure it is in neutral with the ebrake applied my hand over the brake pedal ready to push it to the floor if the car so much as moves, and I take care that if the car did move that I can get out of the way. Treat it like it WILL take off and over prep your work area and the car. Side note a co-worker did not believe his old f150 manual would take off by starting in gear. This was way before our shop had the proper remote starts and he wanted one hacked in. I told him to sit in the driver seat with his foot on the clutch and hand ready to turn the key off, and I went under the hood and bypassed the NSS. He fired it off in 1st gear and went about 150ft before figuring out how to stop. Needless to say that was the end of his desire for a non manual remote start. To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

RJ one comment, LIKE!!

Ok, just gave it "the clutch test." Shut the car down using the manual transmission shutdown procedure but stayed in the car. Held the clutch down, then activated Remote Start. Remote Start worked perfectly. Tested several times and holding the clutch in was the key to proper function. So....do I more likely have an error in the Neutral Safety Switch Input or the Brake Shutdown Input? The diagnostic code indicates Brake Light but everything functions when the clutch is in. And is the solution just to make sure the wiring for that part of the circuit is secure with good tight soldier joints and no shorts or is there anything else I can do?

You need to by pass the clutch.