Add-on remote start to existing alarm problems

hola,

Here's the link to Diagram B of the Checkmate Alarm:

The guy from Checkmate said to hook up the yellow/black (ign input) wire of the

Sorry I forgot to say what I would like it to eventually do:

I would like to be able to remotely start the car (without having

Any ideas?  Thanks!

If you go back to D'oh #2 it seems the remote start and keyless entry were working fine but you were given another problem in that when you utilized your windows up/down feature it would cause your alarm to chirp. It seems you have a shock or radar sensor that is being triggered and causing you alarm to chirp. I am not to familiar with Bulldog, but , does that unit have a wire labeled shunt or two wires that might be called sensor bypass. If so, they need to be utilized. If not, there should be at leaset one wire that the Bulldog puts a ground out while activated. That wire could using diodes and or relays, bypass all your sensors and ignition wires to allow for proper operation.

Hmmm, I'm not sure if the Bulldog unit (the remote starter) has a shunt, or sensor bypass that you spoke of...I don't think it does.

It has a factory alarm shut down wire, but I don't think that's what you mean.

http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/pdf/ModelsRS82_85.pdf

Plus, it was more than just the windows, it was everything because the car

Thanks.

Good! But then the doors auto-lock,

• On the alarm wiring diagram, cut the IGNITION input wire from the harness. This will no longer tell the alrm that the car is on and you can arm while the car is running. Do not cut if you require the toggling of the ignition for programming rather place a toggle switch for this connection and toggle off when programming is done and leave it after this in OFF position until you need to program again

I installed it, and remotely started it and the alarm went off. D'oh #1.

• See if there is a IMPACT DISABLE wire coming from the alarm system that you can ground out when running. If not then you will have to lower your impact sensitivity to accomodate the vibrations of the car when remote started.

The above will be allow you to remtoe start the vehicle, arm and disarm while running, have keyless entry and also have other functions like trunk pop and window controls.

QUOTE:  "The above will be allow you to remtoe start the vehicle, arm and disarm while running, have keyless entry and also have other functions like trunk pop and window controls."

Is it possible to have everything you said, except for allowing the car to be armed while running?

When the Checkmate tech told me to connect the yellow of the alarm (ignition) to the yellow/black

I'm thinking in a way it isn't since the keyless entry also controls the arm/disarm.  I guess I'm just

Re-connect the ignition wire from the Checkmate alarm. This is the wire that lets the alarm system know that the user is in the car and that the car is in use. What you may have to di is have two remote controls that will allow you to arm/disarm the alarm and one for keyless entry alone..... unless you have another spare AUX channel that you can run the door lock/unlock system on and use the arm/disarm of the alrm on the original channels ? Did I loose you ??

Yea, I didn't think this would be easy.  I guess the 2 devices just conflict too much.

I did reconnect that ignition wire, we didn't like the way it acted disconnected.

If I attach the remote starter wire to the motor side of the starter kill relay,

Isn't the remote starter wire a (-) output ? It won't do anything to the starter because the starter needs 12 volts and about 30 - 50 amp draw when starting ( Honda's are less ).

I think what I meant by the "remote start wire" is the starter/crank (yellow/black) wire from the remote starter to the BLACK/ white starter wire in the car.

I thought my whole problem was that I had it connected before the starter kill, and I thought I could fix it by connecting it after the relay, but I think it's (obviously)

more involved than that.