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Need Help.. About to give up on Remote Start...


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nishalp 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: December 27, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: December 27, 2002 at 8:17 PM / IP Logged  

I am just about to give up on installing the remote start on a 2000 Nissan Altima.  I have the entire Alarm (Viper 790XV) wire and working including the door locks, remote trunk and all zones.  The Remote Start is all connected including the Immobilizer 555U from DEI which I placed a full key in.  When I hit the Remote Start buttons, all accessories start up and I can hear the Fuel Pump start.  But it wont crank.

I verified that my Start Wire for the Remote Start is on the Starter side of the wire and not the Ignition kill side.  The ignition kill works when the alarm is triggered so I know I have the right starter wire.

There are siz wires on the Ignition harness.  I tested all of them using a Voltmeter to verify which ones are the accessories, ignition and starter.  Just to let you know, this is my definition of each just in case I am wrong:

Accessory - 12 Volts when the key is in the accessory position and no volts when cranking.

Ignition - 12 volts in Accessory and during ignition.
Starter - 12 volts only when cranking.
Constant - 12 volts all the time.

Here are the wires I found:

WHITE/ Red - Constant

BLACK/ Red - Ignition
BLACK / YELLOW - Starter #1
BLACK/ Blue - Starter #2
BLACK/ Pink - Accessory #1
BLACK/ Blue - Accessory #2 (Radio Power)

I connected all of them except for Accessory #2.  No Luck, so I even connected the second accessory, no luck. 

When the Remote Start Sequence occured, I checked for voltage on the starter wire and it was fine for both wires.

Fine, all the connections are ok so I thought it was the Immobilizer.  The Security light was flashing.  Then when the Remote Start engages, the Security light stops flashing meaning it found the key from the 555U bypass.  Just to make sure, I put my second key into the ignition and put it into the Run Position.  Still Remote Start wont work.

I am out of options.. Any help would be greatly appreciated. 

PS - I checked the Wiring from the install bay on this site and it says that the BLACK/ Blue wire is the second ignition.  I checked the wire, that is the wire that turns on the radio.  I verified this by applying 12 volts to the wire and the radio turned on so I think that wire is wrong on the list.

nishalp 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: December 27, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: December 27, 2002 at 8:35 PM / IP Logged  

Also, one more thing.  There is seperate 3 wire plug for this alarm that has the following options:

Diesel Wait to Start Input - Not a desel car so didnt connect.

Factory Disarm output - I am not arming the car with the factory remote so didnt connect this either.
Channel 4 Output - Extra Output for accessory - Didnt connect.

Since I am not arming the car with the Factory Alarm, I didnt connec the Factory Disarm wire.  Do I need to connect this?  The manaul says that this wire pulses the Factory Disarm wire when Remote Starting and Unarming the car.  

Do I need this?

Thanks.

brianh 
Silver - Posts: 516
Silver spacespace
Joined: August 25, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: December 27, 2002 at 9:07 PM / IP Logged  
The info I have on this vehicle is the same as you except i have BLACK/ pink as the ignition #2 ,  and I have WHITE/ blue as the accessory.  Be sure that all your fuses are good on the alarm(RS outputs) and on the vehicle circuits. Im sure you already did but you can at least eliminate it.  Did you connect the ground when running wire from the R.S unit to the transponder bypass unit?  I belive if you have a factory alarm you need to hook the factory disarm wire up to bypass the alarm system.  If you hear the fuel pump coming online the factory alarm probably doesnt  disconnect the fuel pump.  It might have somthing to do with the starter circuit though.  Try hooking it up and see if that does it .  If it doesnt my best advice is to look at the transponder bypass unit.  It might not be programmed right.(maybe) Good luck with it.  Brian
demeanor 
Copper - Posts: 81
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 10, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: December 27, 2002 at 9:21 PM / IP Logged  

i came accross a similar problem where the starter wouldn't crank either, then i hooked the factory security system disarm wire...and voilá...it worked. the security system has a starter kill, so if you arm/disarm the alarm but not the security system in the car, the starter would not engage.  

hope this helps you out.

It's better to ask a "STUPID" question...than to know a "STUPID" answer. :-)
Velocity Motors 
Moderator - Posts: 12,488
Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Fabrication. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: December 27, 2002 at 9:31 PM / IP Logged  
  • make sure that your hood pin switch is not seeing ground
  • make sure that you are not in manual transmission mode
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
nishalp 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: December 27, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: December 27, 2002 at 9:37 PM / IP Logged  

Ok, thanks for the info.  But I am having a problem finding the Disarm wire.  I checked three different documents and they all say the Disarm wire is GREEN/ YELLOW.  I looked on the SECU (Smart Enterence Control Unit) and this wire is non existant.  Can anybody help me idnetify the location to this wire or how I would test to see if the wire I have is the correct wire using a voltmeter.  Thanks.

Patel

brianh 
Silver - Posts: 516
Silver spacespace
Joined: August 25, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: December 27, 2002 at 10:45 PM / IP Logged  
My info says GREEN/ YELLOW at smart entrance control timer.  It is a blue module behind the driver dash,just right of the steering coulmn. It needs a negitive output from the R.S unit.   Good luck .  Brian
nishalp 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: December 27, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: December 28, 2002 at 1:07 AM / IP Logged  

Ok, now here is what I found out.  I dont have the Factory Theft Option in my car.  I only have the NATS (Immobilizer) and the Keyless Entry.  There are two Smart Control Units.  The one with the Factory Theft has the GREEN/ YELLOW wire.  The main plug has 39 pins.  The one without the Factory Theft does not have the GREEN/ YELLOW Wire and is only 26 pins.  I have shown both diagrams for the units below.  Pin 31 on the view with the Theft is the wire that your talking about.  What do I do now, I dont have that issue.  What else could be wrong?

With Theft - Dont have this.

Need Help.. About to give up on Remote Start... -- posted image.

Without - This is what I have

Need Help.. About to give up on Remote Start... -- posted image.

Velocity Motors 
Moderator - Posts: 12,488
Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Fabrication. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: December 28, 2002 at 8:25 AM / IP Logged  

Your chasing a ghost wire.... look elsewhere for your solution to the problem. If the ignition wires power up and all functions turn on when they are supposed to, make sure you are RS the proper way. You mentioned that the starter wire on the RS unit outputs 12 volts when remote starting, right ? Make sure that both starter wires are getting this 12 volts and relay isolate each starater wire from each other incase of possible feedback. Make sure that the hood pin switch is not seeing a ground and also make sure that hte TACH wire is properly programmed for the vehicle. YOu do have a 6 cylinder or is it the 4 cylinder ?

Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
nishalp 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: December 27, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: December 28, 2002 at 11:57 AM / IP Logged  
Its the 4 Cylinder.
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