Ultrastart 4560, '97 F350

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hairbear65

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Joined: December 25, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: August 27, 2006 at 9:23 AM / IP Logged

I'm installing a 4560 in my 97' F350. I've never done an install that included a alarm.. This unit ahs afew Auxiliary connectors on it.

If you are a Ultrastart installer or have done a 4560 please PM me. I need help.

Thanx Tom

Twelvoltz

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Joined: March 24, 2005

Location: New Jersey, United States

Posted: August 27, 2006 at 10:05 AM / IP Logged

Why not try posting your questions here in the forum? This way anyone who may have the same problem in the future will benefit from the answers provided.

hairbear65

Member - Posts: 13

Joined: December 25, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: August 27, 2006 at 10:24 AM / IP Logged

I would like to, but I have alot. The Ultrastart instructions are not very good in my opinion...they are very vague as to the proper hookups. Those that have done these..its probably second nature to them so...I was hoping to find an installer that can help me with it. I installed a 1250 in my wifes 4Runner, but I think I may have bit off more than I can chew with this model.

I have the main connector in and the antenna, but all the auxiliary hook-ups are confusing me and the directions ain't helping.

AUXILIARY SENSOR CONNECTOR(4 pin white)..is this needed?...and the other Auxiliary hook-ups.

I know when to ask for help.

Thanx Tom

iskidoo

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Joined: December 08, 2002

Location: Maine, United States

Posted: August 27, 2006 at 10:38 AM / IP Logged

Auxilary 4 pin is most likely for a prewired shock sensor that they carry as an option.

Steve G

iskidoo

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Joined: December 08, 2002

Location: Maine, United States

Posted: August 27, 2006 at 10:50 AM / IP Logged

Ask a few questions at a time and I'll try to help until you understand it all.

Steve G

hairbear65

Member - Posts: 13

Joined: December 25, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: August 27, 2006 at 11:56 AM / IP Logged

First AUXILIARY CONNECTOR (4 PIN WHITE)

1-WHITE/ green LED(-) External LED output

2-black Dome Light(-) 250ma dome light supervision output

3-WHITE/ Blue Siren (+) output to activate siren (MENU 1@2)

4 Red Trunk Input(-) input to detect when trunk is open

1/ is the LED req'd...I'm assuming this is for a visual for the thieves

2/Dome light.....Does this get tied into the door trigger

3/ Wh/Blue siren.....tie into red lead on siren...other black lead on siren to ground..Correct?

4/ Red..trunk input..its a pickup...Can I just eliminate this wire?

This is a start...I appreicate any help you guys can offer....the trucks ripped apat in the drive and right now..its pouring out.

Thanx Tom

iskidoo

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Joined: December 08, 2002

Location: Maine, United States

Posted: August 27, 2006 at 12:19 PM / IP Logged

1. yeah it's just an optional. I'm assuming Ultrastart still has the 2 LEDs on the antenna that already serves as a flashing theft detterent when armed.

2. No this provides a transitorized output that is capable of driving a relay. You will need to add a relay to trigger the domelight. You will burnout the output wire if you connect it directly.

3. Correct, make sure it's set to provide a constant +12 volts in the programming menu.

4. You can just cut and tape off

Steve G

hairbear65

Member - Posts: 13

Joined: December 25, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: August 27, 2006 at 1:27 PM / IP Logged

Thanx Steve..the relay for the Dome light...I could get 12v to power the relay from anywhere..doesn't matter?

Round Two...Aux 14 pin.

1- yellow re-arm(-) 0.75 second pulse when (lock symbol on remote) is pressed and after remote start shutdown. Used for factory alarm re-arm.......DO I NEED THIS AND IF SO...WHERE OR WHAT do i tie it into to?

2-Orange Anti-grind/starter kill (-) output active during remote start. progammable starter kill output.

3-Brown Dis-Arm (-) 0.75 second pulse when (lock symbol on remote) is pressed and before remote starter activation. used for factory alarm dis-arm.

4-RED / White trunk release...programmable output

5-WHITE/ purple Ground while Running(-) 250ma ground output while remote starter is activated

6-green door pin(-) input detect(-) when door is open

7-GREEN / WHITE Hood Pin (-) Input to detect ground when hood id open MUST BE CONNECTED

8- Purple Door pin (+) Input to detect 12v when door is open

9-pink Brake Light (+) Positive brake light switch input. used to detect the brake switch being applied.

10-black Ground(-) system ground chassis input

11-blue/white Tach(A/C) A/C tach signal input.

12- Diesel (+/-) Programmable wait to start input...applies to my truck..wh/pnk or blk/pnk in pass.kick panel

13-White Park light (+) 10amp positive output to activate park lights

14BLACK/ White Parking Brake(-) Input to detect (-) when parking brake switch is applied

Man..Steve..I'm sorry for all the ?s and I do greatly appreciate you taking your time to help..more than you know.

Tom

iskidoo

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Joined: December 08, 2002

Location: Maine, United States

Posted: August 27, 2006 at 1:53 PM / IP Logged

round 2:

1. I dont believe you will need that wire for your truck.

2. this is optional. you can use a relay to break the starter wire in 2 while the alarm is armed. It also keeps you from accidentally regrinding the starter motor should you get into the remotely started truck and by habbit turn the key all the way over.

3. Disarm - depends on whether or not your truck has a factory security system. If so you wire it to the FACTORY ALARM DISARM DARK GREEN/ PURPLE (-) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL

4. You shouldn't need this unless you want to use it to trigger a power window roll-up module or something.

5. This would be used to turn on a security ignition bypass but i don't believe that yours has one if it's a super-duty.

6. hook this to the wire that goes negative when you open any of the doors. Yours is Positive trigger so you wont use this wire.

7. You will need to drill a hole under the hood and install the hood pin. Then connect this wire to the hood pin. When the hood is up this wire should see ground on it.

8. This is the positive door pin input which you will use. connect it to DOOR TRIGGER BLACK/ BLUE (+) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL

9. This will connect to the switch above the brake pedal and it should be: LIGHT GREEN (+)

10. connect to a good solid metal part under the dash. this needs to be a good solid connection or will cause headaches later. I usually find a small bolt and loosen it and put a ring terminal on the wire and tighten it back.

11. This is an important part of the remote starter and will be on a DIESEL... WHITE/ PINK located at the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) or at the Main Harness that runs on the inside of the firewall to the left of the brake pedal.

12. looks like you found that already

13.Run to the light switch and connect to BROWN @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH or in DRIVERS KICK PANEL

14. should only need if it's being installed on a manual transmisson vehicle. Is this automatic or manual?

Steve G

hairbear65

Member - Posts: 13

Joined: December 25, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: August 27, 2006 at 1:56 PM / IP Logged

Lock/Unlock Connector (4pin red)

Green Lock(-) programmable 250ma LOCK Output

Red 12volts 250ma 12volt output for relays

Blue Unlock(-) PROGRAMMABLE 250MA UNLOCK output

Pink 2nd Unlock(-) Ouput when (lock symbol) is pressed twice within three seconds

AUXILIARY SENSOR CONNECTOR(4PIN White)

Blue Pre-Warn Input

Green Full Warn Input

Black ground Output

Red 12volt output

Is this connector even needed...as I do not have any type shock sensors...as you stated before?

AUXILIARY CONNECTOR (3PIN White)

GREEn Horn(-) 250ma horn output. Programmable auxiliry #5 output

Pink Auxiliry#6(-) 250ma auxiliary #6 output

Blue Disconnect(+) Positive disconnect. Programmable positive start input.

I think I know some of the hook-ups...but I'd like you to verfiy them Steve..if you don't mind. I have remote door locks on my Ford.....Do you know if I need relays to power my door locks or Do I just tap inot the factor system?

Thats all the hookups on this thing...

Thanx again Tom

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