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03 Murano, remote start problems


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j12v 
Copper - Posts: 58
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 02, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: January 02, 2007 at 3:11 PM / IP Logged  

Ive got the Viper 791XV (The one with the LCD remote start system) currently installed. Everything is ok except for the remote start.  Whenever I try to remote start the vehicle, the vehicle will turn the ignition on, crank, but the starter wont turn over. Either that or the car stays on for a second, and then shuts off on its own.

Yes, Ive got a relay wired up for the 2nd starter using a diagram from Velocity (Something, I forget the rest of his screen name here). As far as the bypass goes, I have one but I didnt hook it up yet BUT I was testing the remote starter WITH the key in the ignition. I also tried it with the bypass all hooked up and still nothing. For the tach wire I went straight to the coil I forget the wire color, but Im 99% sure that Ive got the right wire because when I programmed it to the alarm, the alarm read it. Ive also tried setting the crank time longer. Im also sure I have the correct brake wire. I say Im 99% sure about the tach because I used my testlight rather than my meter because my meter needs to get recalibrated. You might say testlights cant read AC, but the one I use can.

So... Im stuck. I held my test light to the ignition wire of the car while remote starting and it seems like the ignition isnt staying on. I also tried to remote start the car by turning the key to "on" while it remote starts, but you know usually when you remote start a vehicle, and you turn the key on withOUT pressing the brake.... You can still turn the key off, and the engine would be still running right? Not with this car...

Sorry if I jumped from topic to topic. Its just I know the answer is just sitting there in my face and I just cant put my finger on it. Anyways, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

j12v 
Copper - Posts: 58
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 02, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: January 02, 2007 at 3:19 PM / IP Logged  
Oh yeah, the jumpers are on the right spot, and the settings are set for tach inputs ;)
Velocity Motors 
Moderator - Posts: 12,488
Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Fabrication. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: January 02, 2007 at 3:28 PM / IP Logged  
Make sure that if you used a starter disable that you have the proper side of the wire going to the starter side and the switch side. If the IGN is not staying on under crank, then you tagged the wrong wire. The main ignition wire is BLACK/ RED.
The Immobilizer is a RF type system so placing the key in the ignition should work & if not then you have a wiring problem. Check to see that your brake wire is not getting 12 volts ( also test the brake wire when the ignition is ON incase it's got a voltage bleed in the wire ).
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
j12v 
Copper - Posts: 58
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 02, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: January 02, 2007 at 3:41 PM / IP Logged  

Hmm... Im pretty sure that I got the correct BLACK/ red and as far as the starter disable goes (You mean a separate relay right?!) I installed the system with the purple and green wires for the starter, and Im sure I got those wired correctly. But just to make sure, if it was wired incorrectly, the system shouldnt crank then right?

I also tried remote starting the vehicle with the brake wire removed, and still nothing.

I will have to quadrouple check my ignition wires though. Even though Im certain I got the right wires the problem Im having seems like theres a simple solution to it, I just cant pin point it.

I'll probably see that car again this weekend, but I'll keep you guys posted if anything.

Thanks for the help Jeff!

Velocity Motors 
Moderator - Posts: 12,488
Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Fabrication. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: January 02, 2007 at 5:01 PM / IP Logged  
How's the ground to the system ?
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
j12v 
Copper - Posts: 58
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 02, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: January 02, 2007 at 7:25 PM / IP Logged  

You know when you remove the lower drivers side dash? Then you got that metal piece held in by 2 10mm bolts? Its not grounded to the removable metal piece, but where that metal piece secures on to. Used a ring terminal with the handy dandy self tapping screw

j12v 
Copper - Posts: 58
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 02, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: January 04, 2007 at 9:11 PM / IP Logged  

Hey Jeff, one thing I forgot to mention... For the door trigger, I used the keyring light (Reason being is because the red wire that I tested at the BCM wasnt showing me that it was the door trigger). I used a diode also just to be safe.

Do you think this could be the cause? Either way, Im going to test the remote starter withOUT it hooked up but I wont get a chance to see the car till this weekend.

Thanks again

j12v 
Copper - Posts: 58
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 02, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: January 05, 2007 at 6:16 PM / IP Logged  
btt
wkndracr 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: December 28, 2005
Posted: January 05, 2007 at 9:53 PM / IP Logged  
Sounds like a programming issue. I do a lot of fx35's (same car) and always just set it to voltage check and set the crank time to 1 sec (or whatever 3 blinks is). starts every time, not one comeback yet.
your door trigger wire has nothing to do with it.
Chris Luongo 
Platinum - Posts: 3,746
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 21, 2002
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: January 05, 2007 at 11:35 PM / IP Logged  
I use .8 seconds instead of 1.0, but I'm with wkndracer in that they work fine in voltage sense.
Regardless, try the following:
--Try pit-stop mode. Start car with key....engage the remote starter with the car already running.....turn key off, and remove it. Does the car stay running, with everything working properly?
--Try temporarily re-programming for voltage sense mode, with .8 seconds crank time (or longer). If it starts now, you have the wrong tach wire.
--Go into the remote starter's diagnostic mode. It will tell you the reason for the remote start shutting down........hood, brake, over-rev, etcetera........this is much easier than cutting the brake wire.
--Have you tried holding your test light to EACH of the car's two starter wires during remote start? It's possible you made an error in your relay wiring, and the second-starter wire isn't getting powered.
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