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12 volt constant at ignition gone


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orandaberg 
Member - Posts: 38
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Joined: May 24, 2008
Location: Norway
Posted: September 18, 2011 at 4:21 PM / IP Logged  

Hi

My car did not start when I turned the key to the start position,not even a crank over, so I checked the 12 volt constant and it had no power,so I found another hot source and tapped into the harness wire and it starts, but I need to know why my 12 volt source quit in my harness, All fuses are OK as far as I have tested.

I need to know if using that other hot source will cause any further problems, should I put a fuse between the hot source and where I tapped my harness?

I have a Chrysler 300C 07 model, the color of the 12 volt constant is light blue/red, would be nice to know where that wire goes to or what fuse controls it if there is one

howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
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Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: September 18, 2011 at 5:42 PM / IP Logged  
Fuse box or circuit breaker at battery? Both in trunk.
Don't worry your car will be called a Lancia next year so take it to a dealer and they will say Fix It Again Tony.
KPierson 
Platinum - Posts: 3,527
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: April 14, 2005
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: September 18, 2011 at 5:55 PM / IP Logged  
No, it's not safe to jump power like that. You need to find out what failed, and why. Most likely you have a blown fuse somewhere and by simply jumping power most likely you will just blow it again and possibly damage more because you are using a different circuit to provide power.
Kevin Pierson
orandaberg 
Member - Posts: 38
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Joined: May 24, 2008
Location: Norway
Posted: September 18, 2011 at 6:00 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks but I have checked all the fuses acording to the fuse location manual, can anyone give a hint where to look?
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: September 18, 2011 at 6:08 PM / IP Logged  
OK,now I'm effing invisible! Re-read my post again dummy it tells you where to look AND test each fuse with a DMM, looks can be deceiving.
If you can't find it; for safety sake, run a thick lead at least 3mm from the rear battery and fuse it at the battery with a 50 amp fuse.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: September 18, 2011 at 6:09 PM / IP Logged  
Oh and another thing, if you have to take that last route, don't just join to the original lead, cut the original then join them.
orandaberg 
Member - Posts: 38
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Joined: May 24, 2008
Location: Norway
Posted: September 18, 2011 at 6:19 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks but don't call me a dummy! I know about the fuse box, I checked each one with a Volt meter front and rear, but I do appreciate the reply:). Do not take this wrong but I think what you are saying is cut the original lightblue/red from the harness and use the wire I tap in directly to the lightblue/red wire that is left still attached to the key connection that plugs into the key cylinder
KPierson 
Platinum - Posts: 3,527
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: April 14, 2005
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: September 18, 2011 at 6:23 PM / IP Logged  
Have any modifications been made to the car? Anything change on the car right before it lost power?
Kevin Pierson
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: September 18, 2011 at 6:28 PM / IP Logged  
Yes but my original point was don't check with a voltmeter, use continuity.
orandaberg 
Member - Posts: 38
Member spacespace
Joined: May 24, 2008
Location: Norway
Posted: September 18, 2011 at 6:33 PM / IP Logged  

Hi

Yes an attempt was made to add a touch start, I touched the start button and thats when things went wrong

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