2004 ford f150 lariat remote start 5706v

I usually go for the F.I. that is easiest to get at the wires with a soldering iron.  Never had any issues with interference due to the length of the run but I also protect the wire in 1/4" split tube loom.Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote: I usually go for the F.I. that is easiest to get at the wires with a soldering iron.  Never had any issues with interference due to the length of the run but I also protect the wire in 1/4" split tube loom.

Thanks for all your help! I've got everything planned out and I'm ready to do the install. I'll have to find a garage or a day that is not in the single digits.

When contemplating an installation where the Module will be a long distance from the Ignition Switch, another solution is to use the relay outputs instead of the on-board relays, and locate cube relays adjacent to the Ignition switch. Or find a "Satellite Relay" package from a circa 2008-2010 DEI RS system. Then you can use light gauge wires for the relay triggers. No concerns about power draw from BCM wiring, etc. The one drawback on a Ford is that there are 4 IGN or ACCY to power up if you want everything to work during RS. I've found it easier to power them all instead of figuring out which ones do what, and don't have to be powered in an unoccupied car. So you'll have 5 relays. Still better /easier than running all those heavy wires from the rear of the cab.

The drivers door sill has a very thick bundle of wires that can makes things easier :

Soldering is fun!

Ok, good news! I did some playing around today with the wht/red wire. I used a logic probe and confirmed that the wire went to ground when you push the button. Then I used the multimeter to check out what kind of current went through the wire when the button was hit. This was the most troublesome area of my testing. It would range from 6 volts down to .09 volts. I'm not sure I was doing the multimeter testing correctly. I put the red probe to a hot wire and then the black to the wht/red wire and would hit the button (this was awkward to do by myself). I'm not sure if this test really told me if the 200mA is enough or now since it was probably just trying to read the full 12V current for the wire I had the red probe to. If you or anyone else can clue me into how to test this, that would be great. Maybe red to ground and black to the wht/red??? Anyway, to the good news. I very cautiously/nervously used a jumper wire and grounded the wire and sure enough, high heat. I grounded it again and it went to low and then to off.     I am inclined to think that this is hitting a relay and trigger the seats but unless someone can help me figure it out, I guess I relay both of these wires. I'm just happy that I will have a remote function for my heated seats. These wires are something like 24 AWG and I'm thinking of using taps here instead of soldering. I know taps are the devil but these are not a "critical connection and will not have constant current. I will cheat though. I plan on cutting back the insulation and sliding the wire into the prongs to make sure they don't get cut and that I have good contact. I'm going to solder everything else. I just have to say, for now, I'm VERY happy that I decided to do this install DIY.

It just dawned on me that I should have been checking amps, not volts, when testing this wire. I'm still not 100% sure I know how this is done. Do I just switch my (+) probe to the AMPs plug and put it to ground, then the (-) probe to the wire and hit the button? Thanks

I got out to locate all the wires and have a couple questions. The horn wire is a lot heavier wire than the one one the RS ( a lot might be an exaggeration) Second question is for the parking lights. I have two brown wires behind the switch. According to my test probe, they both go positive when I turn the switch on. Which one do I use? I'll check my wire schematic but wanted to ask in case I can't figure it out. Thanks

Well, I got the remote start installed and it unlocks, locks and starts but I did notice a couple issues today. Since getting the RS installed, my high beam indicator does not come on. I will have to check to make sure the high beams themselves come on when I get home (noticed this on my lunch break). I will try investigating this more but could use some tips. Any reason why installing a RS would cause this? Also, sometime the computer display lights up when remote started and sometimes it does not. It does come on once I turn the key to run and hit the brake.

Hello I just thought I'd give an update. The remote start is installed and everything is working well. My "issues" all came from my use of the dome light as the door sense. I switched to the the 4 wires at the BCM and everything is fine. I even got the heated seats to come on remotely. Thanks for the help