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2004 ford f150 lariat remote start 5706v


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kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 09, 2015 at 8:32 PM / IP Logged  

A manual switch for service mode can be done inside the vehicle, too.  The Vipers Neutral Safety Switch provides this for you.

Another way to get an instant hood trigger is with a magnetic reed switch.  Here is an example of a current listing on EBay :

http://www./itm/Normally-OPEN-NO-Magnetic-Contact-door-window-reed-switch-BLACK-2pairs-/301466010233?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4630c64279

These could be secured in place with HotGlue.  No rust, no holes and improved life span ( they are slightly more fragile ).

As for door triggers, I like using the actual door trigger wires, if they are the N.O. type.  Less issues and more logical to me.

Here is a link to a wire gauge to amps and distance calculator : http://www.bulkwire.com/wireresistance.asp 

You can use it to estimate the needed wire gauge for your runs to the steering column.  Might also consider additional fuses.

Soldering is fun!
willy1094 
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Joined: December 26, 2014
Location: Kentucky, United States
Posted: January 09, 2015 at 8:46 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks Kreg! Any thoughts or input on the (+)12V connections? Mainly, it it too much of a load to add to the amp wire or BCM? I'm leaning toward the amp since it is not a critical component. I could easily replace the amp. I'm just used to running new feeds for heavy load audio (amplifiers) and Leary of adding additional load to a circuit that may already be toward it's limit. The amp seems to be a pretty heavy wire for a factory amp.
kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 10, 2015 at 2:15 AM / IP Logged  
Sorry, I have never looked at / evaluated wires found at the BCM for use with R/S systems and ignition wires.  As mentioned, I keep the R/S under the dash and draw supply power from the main ignition harness.  It can handle the load and all the high amp wires are short. 
Soldering is fun!
willy1094 
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Joined: December 26, 2014
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Posted: January 10, 2015 at 6:17 AM / IP Logged  
kreg357 wrote:
Sorry, I have never looked at / evaluated wires found at the BCM for use with R/S systems and ignition wires.  As mentioned, I keep the R/S under the dash and draw supply power from the main ignition harness.  It can handle the load and all the high amp wires are short. 
Thanks again. I may have to rethink my install location. Thinks for the link also. I've used voltage drop calculators for AC before but haven't used one for DC.
If anyone can offer input on the heated seats, that would be very helpful. I guess I could play it safe and use relays.
willy1094 
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Joined: December 26, 2014
Location: Kentucky, United States
Posted: January 10, 2015 at 7:11 AM / IP Logged  
Kreg, do you typically combine the 12V constant, 12V accessory/starter input, Fused 12V ignition 1 input and connect them to light GREEN/ purple at the ignition harness? If not, what would the best connection for these be if installing under the dash? I'm thinking I could install under the dash to keep these heavy wires short and then run the smaller wires back to the BCM if needed.
willy1094 
Member - Posts: 26
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Location: Kentucky, United States
Posted: January 10, 2015 at 7:21 AM / IP Logged  
willy1094 wrote:
Kreg, do you typically combine the 12V constant, 12V accessory/starter input, Fused 12V ignition 1 input and connect them to light GREEN/ purple at the ignition harness? If not, what would the best connection for these be if installing under the dash? I'm thinking I could install under the dash to keep these heavy wires short and then run the smaller wires back to the BCM if needed.
Sorry, I can't edit my posts yet but I just saw that I would connect the fused 12V ignition 1 input to the ignition 1 dark blue/light green at the ignition harness. So I guess my questions would be if I would combine the 12v constant and the 12v accessory/starter input?
willy1094 
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Joined: December 26, 2014
Location: Kentucky, United States
Posted: January 10, 2015 at 7:32 AM / IP Logged  
Scratch that last post. Both of those are for the relays. Sorry, I'm still working out these new (under dash) connections. Boy, I wish I could edit 2004 ford f150 lariat remote start 5706v - Page 3 -- posted image. 2004 ford f150 lariat remote start 5706v - Page 3 -- posted image.
willy1094 
Member - Posts: 26
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Joined: December 26, 2014
Location: Kentucky, United States
Posted: January 10, 2015 at 8:23 AM / IP Logged  
OK, I think I have it worked out. I've got red 12V constant input to light GREEN/ purple, fused 12v accessory/starter input to light GREEN/ purple, fused 12v ignition 1 input to light green purple and ignition 1 input/output to dark blue/light green.
Do you have a preference of attaching the tach wire to the coil or fuel injector, or does it make a difference?
kreg357 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 10, 2015 at 11:20 AM / IP Logged  

My rule of thumb :  Ford = F.I. and Chrysler = Coil

Soldering is fun!
willy1094 
Member - Posts: 26
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Joined: December 26, 2014
Location: Kentucky, United States
Posted: January 10, 2015 at 12:13 PM / IP Logged  
This may be a stupid question...would it be better to grab one of the injectors at the rear of the engine as opposed to the front? Is there any concern about signal interference if I run it through too much of the engine compartment?
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