2004 ford f150 lariat remote start 5706v

Is there any down side to attaching the door sense to the dome light instead of at the BCM? Just seems easier than messing with isolating 4 wires. I will go the normal route if there is ANY reason connecting to the dome wire is not advisable. Thanks

Depending on the after-market alarm system, Dome light delay / fade can cause issues.  Compustar units have this programming option :

3-03 Dome Light Delay – This option is used when connecting the door trigger input to the vehicles dome light circuit. It 

  delays the door trigger input to prevent the door open icon displaying on 2 Way remotes upon    lock/arm.

Can't remember if the 2004 F150 has dome light delay and not sure about your Viper 5706v capabilities.

Soldering is fun!

The viper has the door chirp error off. It ignores the door pin for ~10 seconds I believe.Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

First, I want to thank everyone that has already helped with the questions I had up to this point. I’ve searched countless forums and read anything I could find about installing the remote start in my truck. I feel like I am at a point where I can get this installed. I plan on mounting the remote start next to the BCM (behind the rear seat) since most connections can be made here and ease of access. I do still have a few questions where I either found conflicting information and/or feel like I could go another route. My first area of concern is the (+) 12V connections. One person says they made the connections at the BCM. His connections where: 6-pin harness pin 1 (Red) to BCM (Tan/Wht), 10-pin harness pin 2 (RED / Blk) and pin 5 (Red) to BCM (Lt Grn/Yel). Another person made all three of these connections at the amplifier (+)12V constant. My concern is whether or not the BCM wire can carry the extra load. If there was an overload, I would hate for it to be at the BCM. Are there any real concerns using these connections? How about the alternative of using the Amp wire? My thought was to go ahead and run an independent 8 gauge wire from the battery back to remote start. I know some of this load is momentary but not sure how heavy that load is. My second question is for my heated seat connections. I plan on using the Blu/Wht (24-pin harness pin 2) (-) 200mA Rear defogger to switch the relay for the driver’s heated seat. I would make this connection behind the switch o the Wht/Red (high/low, on/off signal). This is a negative switch but would I need a relay or is this lead enough to power this option? My service manual wiring diagram either does not show if this is a relay or I’m missing it. I wanted to use the defogger since it is supposed to trigger automatically when the temp is less than 55 degrees. I plan to do the same type of connection for the passenger side via the AUX1 Wht/Vio to the Wht/Yel behind the switch. No need to have both seats come on every time. Again, this is a (-)200mA ouput. I would set both to pulse. I do not plan on using the dome light feature since, as I understand it, the only difference it makes it that I will not get a courtesy light when I hit unlock. The light would still function the same in every other aspect, correct? I also plan on omitting the hood pin but do plan on putting both warning stickers in the engine compartment. One on the battery and the other near the hood latch. My other dealer installed remote start does not have a hood pin shutdown. I’m not dead set on this though. What are your thoughts? My follow-up question about attaching the door sense to the dome light wire. My dome light stays on until I lock the doors. Once I lock the doors, the light immediately fades off. Is this considered a delay or will the viper delay allow for this. I just read about this suggestion yesterday so I have not had a lot of time to see if this has been answered so I apologize if it has. I know that most of what I’ve asked has been answered in some form but I’m finding conflicting information (or different opinions).    I just wanted to check in with people “in the know” before proceeding. My last question is about programming the system to learn the tach. Should I do this with a cold start so that the tach revs high or do this at operating temp? My truck (most older cars)can take a lot more cranking in these cold temps we are getting so I want to make sure the system can adjust for that with the tach wire. Sorry for the super long post! I did fill out the excel spreadsheet for my wiring plan that another member created but not sure how to attach it here. I would be more than happy to share that if anyone wants to look at it and tell me how to post it. Thanks again!

I captured my excel spreadsheet to post here. Hope this helps.

Personally, I keep the R/S system and the bypass module under the drivers side dash area.  The majority of the wires

can be found in that area.  You could grab the door trigger wires at the BCM, diode isolate into one wire and pull thatone wire up to the front.  Running thick ignition wires that distance could be problematic if not executed perfectly.

If your truck currently has RKE, do the interior lights come on with an Unlock command?  If yes, you might not need

dome light supervision.

Can't help with the heated seats, sorry.

For the Tach, you might have to play around / trail and error to find what engine RPM at Learn works best for all

situations. 

Not sure what your objection is to a hood pin.  It is a nice safety feature.  You are already running a wire into the

engine compartment for the Tach, so another wire for the hood pin shouldn't be an issue.  I don't like drilling holes for the hood pin, too much chance for rust, etc.  My solution is using a mercury tilt switch mounted to an existinghood hinge bolt.  Like this :

Soldering is fun!

I really like the idea of a mercury switch. How would it do parking on an incline? Is it a pretty drastic on off differ? Thanks

kreg357 wrote: Personally, I keep the R/S system and the bypass module under the drivers side dash area.  The majority of the wires can be found in that area.  You could grab the door trigger wires at the BCM, diode isolate into one wire and pull that one wire up to the front.  Running thick ignition wires that distance could be problematic if not executed perfectly. If your truck currently has RKE, do the interior lights come on with an Unlock command?  If yes, you might not need dome light supervision. Can't help with the heated seats, sorry. For the Tach, you might have to play around / trail and error to find what engine RPM at Learn works best for all situations.  Not sure what your objection is to a hood pin.  It is a nice safety feature.  You are already running a wire into the engine compartment for the Tach, so another wire for the hood pin shouldn't be an issue.  I don't like drilling holes for the hood pin, too much chance for rust, etc.  My solution is using a mercury tilt switch mounted to an existing hood hinge bolt.  Like this : <IMG src="https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/uploads/D9E_2013_gc_hood_pin_switch.jpg">

You caught the main issue with the mercury tilt switch.  When adjusted properly, the switch will only trigger with the hoodraised to 30 degrees, or so.  If you lived in San Francisco and parked facing uphill, it might prevent a R/S.   In most instances,if you park on a somewhat level surface, it should work fine.  The other issue is using mercury tilt switches in alarm applications.An alarm should trigger before the hood is raised enough to get at any wiring and the 30 degrees opening provided by a tiltswitch is way too much.  They are move expensive but provide a much longer service life compared to the standard pin switch.Soldering is fun!

I will go ahead and run the wire for the switch and try to work out a mounting method that will work for me. What are your thoughts on a labeled manual switch? This post https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=136501 seems to indicate that I can use the dome for the door sense.

Sorry, forgot to ask, what are your thoughts on the (+)12V connections? I think I go with the rear install running 14 gauge wire to the front. Nothing against your preference, I really like how installs turned out with other people's installations. Can you offer any insight with the amp vs BCM (+)12V connections? Does the rest of my wiring connections listed work? Any good way to test negative current draw from a momentary switch? Thanks for taking the time to reply.