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2002 ex accord, python 900 alarm


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frunkis 
Member - Posts: 18
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Joined: November 27, 2007
Posted: November 27, 2007 at 6:40 PM / IP Logged  
Hello all, great site - thanks for all the information.
I am tracking down the current wiring diagram for my car year make and model:
2002 Honda Accord, EX.
The alarm for the install is a Python 990
As far as I can tell, there seems to be two types of wiring diagrams floating around. One indicates that the yellow wire in the ignition harness is Accessory, another diagram indicates its a Second Ignition. Now considering this alarm has both sets of hook ups, which diagram am I really look at to be correct?
Another question for the door lock and unlock. I have been doing searches ( Link to search) for any information I can find and map out before I do the install.
Trying to iron out the door unlock and lock process. I am noticing a lot of talk in other threads that its all controlled by one wire, with a (-) power string. Now this may be self explanatory once I open everything up and multimeter test my harnesses, but does anyone have details on this such of a deal?
Please see the included diagram for the door lock connections for more detail.
2002 ex accord, python 900 alarm -- posted image.
I am sure I will have more questions as I keep my research on, thank you all so much.
-Jon
frunkis 
Member - Posts: 18
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Joined: November 27, 2007
Posted: November 27, 2007 at 6:55 PM / IP Logged  
I'm sorry, I forgot to mention that this car is a Coupe.
frunkis 
Member - Posts: 18
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Joined: November 27, 2007
Posted: November 28, 2007 at 8:14 AM / IP Logged  
Anyone have any comments on this? I've done more research on the door locks, without looking at it and testing it it seems its going to be a 3 wire (-) pulse system? Ground, Lock and Unlock
KarTuneMan 
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Posted: November 28, 2007 at 10:31 AM / IP Logged  

It matters NOT wich diagram you look at.....test all of your wires, and it will unfold in front of you like a book.

Locks are neagative pulse. The outputs from your alarm should do the trick without relays.

12 VOLTS White Ignition switch harness   + 
 IGNITION BLACK / YELLOW Ignition switch harness   + 
 ACCESSORY Yellow Ignition switch harness   + 
 ACCESSORY 2 WHITE/ black Ignition switch harness   + 
 You must power the second acc. wire when doing remote start or the ABS light in the dash may light up.
 STARTER BLACK/ white Ignition switch harness   + 
 If you are adding a starter-kill to the vehicle, it is important that you cut the starter wire at the ignition switch and NOT between the fusebox and starter solenoid. Doing so will cause the vehicle's 'Check Engine' light to come on.
 KEY SENSE Blue/white Ignition harness   - 
 TACH SIGNAL Blue 1-pin plug in engine compartment   AC 
 Located beside the battery on the 2.3L engine and on the driver's side shock tower for the 3L. (see photos)
 LOCK BLACK/ blue In passenger side fusebox   - 
 Use these wires for vehicles with factory alarm only. They are found in the green connector at the top of the passenger side fusebox. Disarm without unlock is BLUE inside driver's door. For Accord LX with no factory alarm, use BLACK/ WHITE(lock) and GREEN/ RED(unlock) found on a two pin plug at the front of the driver's side fusepanel.
 UNLOCK Orange In passenger side fusebox   - 
 Use these wires for vehicles with factory alarm only. They are found in the green connector at the top of the passenger side fusebox. Disarm without unlock is BLUE inside driver's door. For Accord LX with no factory alarm, use BLACK/ WHITE(lock) and GREEN/ RED(unlock) found on a two pin plug at the front of the driver's side fusepanel.
 DOORPIN BLACK/ WHITE/ silver dots 4-pin plug on passenger side fusebox   - 
 TRUNK PIN ORANGE / silver dots in harness running behind driver's side fusebox   - 
 TRUNK RELEASE WHITE/ red in harness running behind driver's side fusebox   + 
 FACTORY ARM Arms with lock wire    - 
 Use these wires for vehicles with factory alarm only. They are found in the green connector at the top of the passenger side fusebox. Disarm without unlock is BLUE inside driver's door. For Accord LX with no factory alarm, use BLACK/ WHITE(lock) and GREEN/ RED(unlock) found on a two pin plug at the front of the driver's side fusepanel.
 FACTORY DISARM Disarms with unlock wire    - 
 Use these wires for vehicles with factory alarm only. They are found in the green connector at the top of the passenger side fusebox. Disarm without unlock is BLUE inside driver's door. For Accord LX with no factory alarm, use BLACK/ WHITE(lock) and GREEN/ RED(unlock) found on a two pin plug at the front of the driver's side fusepanel.

frunkis 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: November 27, 2007
Posted: November 28, 2007 at 10:19 PM / IP Logged  
Thank you for that information. I figured it was going to be more testing each wire to confirm which I connect to.
I am also installing a battery backup for the alarm, so as far as the parking lights go - should I run then as a relay instead, considering the battery backup instructions warn highly that during remote start the draw from the parking lights could over do it on the limits for the battery? Personally, I am not really looking to have the parking lights flash - the LCD will tell me if the car is r/s or not, so why announce to everyone else that my car is currently running...
frunkis 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: November 27, 2007
Posted: November 28, 2007 at 10:34 PM / IP Logged  
I was doing some more research on the wiring grid provided with the alarm. As far as the harness goes for the lock unlock, it seems some have mentioned that if you use the factory arm / factory disarm (-) leads off the alarm harness, it will unlock then lock the car on r/s. Obviously this is something I do not really want to happen - but it seems that these two wires are the only ones that send out a pulse (-) in the line.
The door lock harness seems to segment between both (+) and (-).
Well my question is, which set of wires (the door lock harness or the factory arm / factory disarm (-) wires) do you recommend I connect. I would think the factory arm / factory disarm (-) wires are the ones to connect, as the 'Disarm but don't unlock' blue wire will be grounded when r/s is activated letting the system know that we are disarming the alarm but not grounding it, which would block the factory disarm (-) from unlocking the doors. So I would be connecting those wires but NOT connecting the door wire harness.
Does that sound like a scrambled mess? Sorry if it does, its late.
It seems the locks are the only thing I am stuck on mapping out before I install everything.
Thanks all for your help!
frunkis 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: November 27, 2007
Posted: November 29, 2007 at 9:57 AM / IP Logged  
Well I am not going to know until I sit down and test the wires on how the brain reacts, but I am going to say it should be put in like this:
factory arm / factory disarm (-) wires go to the lock and unlock wires on the car. Since the factory alarm arms/disarms with the lock and unlock, these wires would do the deed (considering they output a pulse (-) signal).
The blue wire on the drivers door will be connected to the ground pulse wire to tell the alarm to disarm but stay locked.
The lock/unlock wires will not be used (looks like they would be used with relays)
Does this look all correct?
frunkis 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: November 27, 2007
Posted: November 29, 2007 at 9:48 PM / IP Logged  
frunkis wrote:
Well I am not going to know until I sit down and test the wires on how the brain reacts, but I am going to say it should be put in like this:
factory arm / factory disarm (-) wires go to the lock and unlock wires on the car. Since the factory alarm arms/disarms with the lock and unlock, these wires would do the deed (considering they output a pulse (-) signal).
The blue wire on the drivers door will be connected to the ground pulse wire to tell the alarm to disarm but stay locked.
The lock/unlock wires will not be used (looks like they would be used with relays)
Does this look all correct?
I guess it does look fine, so I'll keep on with the research unless someone chimes in on it.
frunkis 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: November 27, 2007
Posted: November 30, 2007 at 10:25 PM / IP Logged  
On my alarm, I have to options. It comes with a relay pack for the door locks, but also has the option to run wires directly out of the brain for the locks. Question being, if I am not going to use that relay pack, what are the polarity on these two wires coming out of the lock port on the brain? Are they the pulsing (-) format we need for our locks?
Or am I going to end up using the relay pack that came with the Python 990 - and if so anyone know how to wire this up? It is not even mentioned in the install manual.
frunkis 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: November 27, 2007
Posted: December 01, 2007 at 12:20 AM / IP Logged  
Well for reference for others, I found a diagram to use the relay pack that comes with the alarm. Click here for diagram
Now that it looks much more straight forward, I have my last piece of the puzzle for the install!
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