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valet 562t cranks no start


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pappasteve 
Member - Posts: 22
Member spacespace
Joined: December 09, 2008
Posted: January 03, 2009 at 10:57 AM / IP Logged  

I think it has to do with the tach wire.  I went out to check the things that were suggested and it started without the key in it (for the 1st time).  Sarted up a few times with the remote and all was good.  Programed it to not flash the parking lights.  Would not start up after that even with the key in the on position.  I went thru the tach learn set up and it started a few times and then wouldn't. 

Whats the best way to keep this from happening. I tried progamming it for voltage sense instead of tach but didn't have any luck and the manual is kind of confusing on directions.  I used the tach wire and hooked it up to one of the injector wires at the ECM.  Programmed it for voltage instead of tach but it didn't start either.  Then I read in the manual that if you program for voltage sense you don't use the tach wire.  I'm confused.

I have had no luck in finding the tach wire at the ECM.  I can't get the dash apart to try and find it at the cluster.  Some here say that the tach wire is sometimes unreliable.  If voltage is better, please help me understand how to set this up to make it work right.  I know i'm getting close but am just missing something simple.

Also I did hook up the second acc. wire and program it but it didn't help. 

stiver_32 
Member - Posts: 36
Member spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2007
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 03, 2009 at 11:04 AM / IP Logged  
pappasteve wrote:

I think it has to do with the tach wire.  I went out to check the things that were suggested and it started without the key in it (for the 1st time).  Sarted up a few times with the remote and all was good.  Programed it to not flash the parking lights.  Would not start up after that even with the key in the on position.  I went thru the tach learn set up and it started a few times and then wouldn't. 

Whats the best way to keep this from happening. I tried progamming it for voltage sense instead of tach but didn't have any luck and the manual is kind of confusing on directions.  I used the tach wire and hooked it up to one of the injector wires at the ECM.  Programmed it for voltage instead of tach but it didn't start either.  Then I read in the manual that if you program for voltage sense you don't use the tach wire.  I'm confused.

I have had no luck in finding the tach wire at the ECM.  I can't get the dash apart to try and find it at the cluster.  Some here say that the tach wire is sometimes unreliable.  If voltage is better, please help me understand how to set this up to make it work right.  I know i'm getting close but am just missing something simple.

Also I did hook up the second acc. wire and program it but it didn't help. 

I believe "Voltage Sense" refers to the remote starter being able to sense the vehicle is running because the voltage in the system is above 12v+ due to the alternator working after the vehicle's engine is running.    For this reason... you dont need to have a tach wire connected.  Do you understand now?

stiver_32 
Member - Posts: 36
Member spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2007
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 03, 2009 at 11:07 AM / IP Logged  

It really would help if you listed all the wires you have connected.  Do you have a good ground??  do you have the neutral safety wire grounded??  the hood pin isnt grounding out is it?  I would just disconnected the wire from the hood pin to role it out until you get everything working.

pappasteve 
Member - Posts: 22
Member spacespace
Joined: December 09, 2008
Posted: January 03, 2009 at 11:47 AM / IP Logged  

wires that are connected.

H1 on control module

red wire 12 volt constant. hooked to green @ign.harness                                                                                                

(Horn)brown wire hooked to lt GREEN/ red @ steering colunm

black to a good ground on drivers side kick panel.

(parking lights)white wire hooked to blue/red wire @steering column

H2 - not hooked up

H3

(neutral safety)black white - grounded

(Brake shutdown) brown hooked to BROWN / red wire at brake switch

(hood pin) gray disconneted

(tach input) violet/white hooked to WHITE/ blue injection wire at ecm

jumpers in factory settings

relay satellite heavy gauge wires

purple wire starter side of starter wire black yellow wire @ ign. hraness  -still need to hook up second starter wire yet

green wire key side of starter wire -  BLACK / YELLOW  wire @ ign. harness  

red wire constant 12v hooked up to green wire @ ign. harness

orange wire hooked up to RED / yellow wire @ ign. harness

pink/white wire hooked up to 2nd accessory WHITE/ blue wire at ign. harness (programed for accessory)

RED / white constant 12v hooked up from battery

The Tach wire is the one that I can't seem to find.  The car does have a tach in the cluster.  I looked at a repair manual and it showed a 3.3 engine should have a RED / blue wire at the ecm but I couldn't find a wire that color. I can't get the dash apart to check the back of the cluster.

pappasteve 
Member - Posts: 22
Member spacespace
Joined: December 09, 2008
Posted: January 03, 2009 at 2:34 PM / IP Logged  

It's been  along time since I have had electricity class.  I tried to hook up the relay to make the second start wire work.  Could not get it too work.  It is a 4 prong relay.  Thats the last thing I have to try before I give up and disconnect everything and take the car  back. 

I was trying to help out a lady at work by get it hooked up.  I have put in a number of bulldog remotes and never had any kind of problems like this.   Definently won't ever try to put this brand in again.

hydrodancer91 
Copper - Posts: 72
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 26, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: January 03, 2009 at 2:56 PM / IP Logged  

to wire the second starter relay take a standard  prong relay pin 85 will be the thin purple wire from the remote start relay pack, pin 86 and 87 will be 12volt constant and pin 30 will go to the second starter wire.  if you think it is tach related (which i dont) you can use an uncommon injector wire for tach. the way you do that is look at a couple of injectors under the hood they will have 2 wires coming off them. one of the wires will be the same color on each injector use any of the wires that arent that color. sometimes on nissans the car will start with out the second starter wire sometimes they wont most of the time they wont. i think thats your problem

kevindanielk 
Member - Posts: 42
Member spacespace
Joined: February 18, 2003
Location: New York, United States
Posted: January 03, 2009 at 3:07 PM / IP Logged  

The relay for the second starter wire(cold start injector) should be wired as follows;

You wire pin 30 to 12vdc (high current) and pin 87 to the 2nd starter wire. Pin 85 of the relay should be wired to the purple heavy guage starter wire and finally pin 86 should be Ground.

Pin 85 and 86 connect the electromagnet within the relay and when the remote start sends the + start current through the purple wire, it will energize the magnetic circuit(85+ and 86-) causing pin 30 and 87 to contact each other, sending + current to the second starter wire from pin 30 to pin 87.

I hope that explains the relay inner workings. Try it again. Don't give up yet.

kevindanielk 
Member - Posts: 42
Member spacespace
Joined: February 18, 2003
Location: New York, United States
Posted: January 03, 2009 at 3:18 PM / IP Logged  
Also, adding to what hydrodancer91 stated, you can just connect the tach wire directly to any uncommon injector wire, right there close to the injector. You don't have to trace it all the way back to the ecm to try and hook it up there. I've always hooked it up very close to an injector and it's worked every time. These 562t rs are usually a breeze to hook up. I also would say it has to be that second starter wire, once the injector wire is hooked up and tach learn procedure is performed again, just to be sure.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: January 03, 2009 at 5:32 PM / IP Logged  
Have we removed the steering column cowl to see if it needs a by-pass?  If you have a plastic ring around the ignition switch with two thin wires coming out,  you have a factory transponder immobiliser  and this must be by-passed, secondly you must connect the second starter. Thirdly, if you have doubts about tach use the DEI inductive pick-up, I believe they still market it,  that way you are not going to affect the vehicle and it's great for diesels.
KPierson 
Platinum - Posts: 3,527
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: April 14, 2005
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: January 03, 2009 at 5:53 PM / IP Logged  

Tach wires, when hooked up properly, are the most accurate way for a remote start to work.  When monitoring the tach signal the starter output is flexible - it will stay on until the car is started (up to a preset amount of time then it will time out).

When set to voltage sense the starter output is time based.  It cranks for x amount of seconds and then shuts off.  The unit then checks the 12vdc input to see if the voltage is above a certain level. 

Tach is a closed loop system (provides actual feedback) while voltage is an open loop system (no actual feedback).  I have NEVER had a car come back because the tach wire was hooked up - I have seen numerous cars come back because the installer was too lazy to hook the tach wire up.

What I would do, if I were you, is first hook up the 2nd starter wire like people have mentioned.  I would then download a Nissan factory service manual and find the injector wire at the ECU (since you said the ECU was easy to get to).  I would then hook the tach up to a fuel injector at the ECU.

These days, I will ONLY install Valet remote starts - I really, really like them.

Kevin Pierson
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