code alarm ca6225

Im trying to install the alarm/remote start in the title and I also picked up the FLCAN to use as a bypass. I believe I'm ready to go, but I have a couple questions for the gurus here. Is a Tach wire necessary? Do I have to install the pin switch? Do I need the Neutral safety wire, does it get that i fo from the FLCAN or can I just ground that (I have an automatic)? Is the 'ground when armed output' connection needed? Also everything is accounted for, but there was a relay left over. I'm assuming it's for the starter kill/anti-grind. The book mentions cutting the starter 1 wire, but doesn't show the connections made to the 4 wires on the relay. Any help would be appreciated. thanks!

I forgot to mention, this is going in a 2007 Mazda5.

The Tach Mode is usually the most reliable method of remote starting

a vehicle.  Here is the Tach wire info from DEI :Tach  NOT BLACK/ Green, Black, or GREEN/ Blue (ac)  @ any ignition coil or fuel injector

The Hood Pin is an important safety feature and should be connected.

The supplied hood pin switch might not be necessary if you car has afactory installed switch.  Check the car for it and then test / verifythis wiring listed in the DEI wiring guide :Hood Pin    Gray/Red (-)     @ pin switch or BCM, 16 pin plug, pin 1A

The FLCAN only does the transponder bypass function and does not supply

a Neutral Safety signal.  You can either connect to the EBrake (-) orchassis ground.

The Starter Kill is optional.  Here are the generic relay wiring diagrams :

https://www.the12volt.com/relays/page2.asp

Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote: The Tach Mode is usually the most reliable method of remote starting a vehicle.  Here is the Tach wire info from DEI : Tach  NOT BLACK/ Green, Black, or GREEN/ Blue (ac)  @ any ignition coil or fuel injector The Hood Pin is an important safety feature and should be connected. The supplied hood pin switch might not be necessary if you car has a factory installed switch.  Check the car for it and then test / verify this wiring listed in the DEI wiring guide : Hood Pin    Gray/Red (-)     @ pin switch or BCM, 16 pin plug, pin 1A The FLCAN only does the transponder bypass function and does not supply a Neutral Safety signal.  You can either connect to the EBrake (-) or chassis ground. The Starter Kill is optional.  Here are the generic relay wiring diagrams : https://www.the12volt.com/relays/page2.asp

Now that was quick! I saw that diagram right after I posted, and it generated another question lol.... The orange wire says 'From Alarm (-) When Disarmed'. Would this be the Orange wire on the 6 pin output harness? That's what it's labeled as in he book and it is an output harness, but I just wanted to be sure.... I'm assuming the Pink is going to the Ignition(+) wire on the ignition column. The Black wire goes to the Ignition Switch side of the cut Starter wire and the WHITE/ black wire goes to the Motor side of the cut Starter. If I use the starter relay do I use the stand alone wire from the alarm brain also? If so do I need to connect the Purple Starter (+) wire on the starter harness? What connection is the Pulse During Crank? There is also a Pulse After shutdown connection that is used to relink doors, does that just get connected to the door lock connection?

First, let me state that I am not a CodeAlarm installer and am not

real familiar with their specifics.  I can't find an install guide forthe CA6225 you mentioned.  Possibly it is a CA6552?  Anyway...

Yes, the CA6552 Orange GWA wire is the correct one to use for Starter

Kill.  The Pink wire in the diagram goes to the CA6552 thick PinkIgnition wire ( which continues to the vehicles Blue Ignition wire ).Too confusing...   Here is the relay wiring :Relay Pin 85 to CA6552 ORANGE GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT (-)Relay Pin 86 to CA6552 PINK IGNITION 1 (+) (which continues to the vehicles Blue Ignition wire)Relay Pin 87A to cut key switch side of vehicles BLACK/ Blue Starter wireRelay Pin 30 to cut vehicle side of vehicles BLACK/ Blue Starter wire AND           CA6552 thick PURPLE STARTER OUTPUT ( both wires connected to Pin 30 )

The CA6552 GREEN / WHITE wire may not be necessary on your vehicle.  It can be

used for several things like RAP shutdown, lock after shutdown, etc.  Here is thedescription from the install guide :This wire will supply a ( - ) 200mA pulse after the remote start shuts down. This

is typically used to re-lock the vehicle’s doors if they unlock upon remote start

shutdown. It can also be used to pulse a door pin-switch wire to prevent the

vehicle’s accessories from remaining on after remote start shutdown.

Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote: First, let me state that I am not a CodeAlarm installer and am not real familiar with their specifics.  I can't find an install guide for the CA6225 you mentioned.  Possibly it is a CA6552?  Anyway... Yes, the CA6552 Orange GWA wire is the correct one to use for Starter Kill.  The Pink wire in the diagram goes to the CA6552 thick Pink Ignition wire ( which continues to the vehicles Blue Ignition wire ). Too confusing...   Here is the relay wiring : Relay Pin 85 to CA6552 ORANGE GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT (-) Relay Pin 86 to CA6552 PINK IGNITION 1 (+) (which continues to the vehicles Blue Ignition wire) Relay Pin 87A to cut key switch side of vehicles BLACK/ Blue Starter wire Relay Pin 30 to cut vehicle side of vehicles BLACK/ Blue Starter wire AND           CA6552 thick PURPLE STARTER OUTPUT ( both wires connected to Pin 30 ) The CA6552 GREEN / WHITE wire may not be necessary on your vehicle.  It can be used for several things like RAP shutdown, lock after shutdown, etc.  Here is the description from the install guide : This wire will supply a ( - ) 200mA pulse after the remote start shuts down. This is typically used to re-lock the vehicle’s doors if they unlock upon remote start shutdown. It can also be used to pulse a door pin-switch wire to prevent the vehicle’s accessories from remaining on after remote start shutdown.

You are correct sir, I haven't really slept since Thursday night lol. It's my wife's badly on Tuesday and I'm installing this alarm and also installing a new deck, amp, speakers and subs. Finished the audio buildout a little bit ago and I'm now in planning stages for alarm install. Your help has been great! One last thing...that GREEN / WHITE wire...if that's not installed will the alarm still unlock the doors?

Also, what size resistor do I use for the door lock connection? It says 1k ohm, but what wattage?

The Ca6552 uses its' 3 Pin Lock Output Harness with these wires to interface

with the vehicles locks :1 BLUE UNLOCK ( - )2 OPEN3 GREEN LOCK ( - ) 

Does the Mazda5 have the Factory alarm system?  If you do have the Factory

Alarm, you will have to connect the CA6552s' Arm and Disarm outputs to thevehicle and might find that they also lock and unlock the doors.  Here is alink to the DEI wiring info for your car :  http://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?make=Mazda&model=Mazda5

If you don't have the Factory Alarm and must connect to the one-wire door

lock wire, relays are necessary and the 1,000 ohm resistor is typically1/4 Watt rated.  If you don't already have the relays, see about a DEI 451M module.  It comes with the resistor, too.  They can be had for less than $10.

Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote: The Ca6552 uses its' 3 Pin Lock Output Harness with these wires to interface with the vehicles locks : 1 BLUE UNLOCK ( - ) 2 OPEN 3 GREEN LOCK ( - )  Does the Mazda5 have the Factory alarm system?  If you do have the Factory Alarm, you will have to connect the CA6552s' Arm and Disarm outputs to the vehicle and might find that they also lock and unlock the doors.  Here is a link to the DEI wiring info for your car :  http://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?make=Mazda&model=Mazda5 If you don't have the Factory Alarm and must connect to the one-wire door lock wire, relays are necessary and the 1,000 ohm resistor is typically 1/4 Watt rated.  If you don't already have the relays, see about a DEI 451M module.  It comes with the resistor, too.  They can be had for less than $10.

I don't believe it had an alarm...I know it had keyless entry and the panic button worked, but that's it I believe. If the factory connection is there can I just connect to that? I was also looking over the FLCAN instructions and it said that two keys are required, but in step 4 it says if the light turns green after using one key then programming is complete...I'm kinda confused on that one....

Thanks for that link...looks like that relay can be had at Best Buy for $10...I was afraid I was going to have to order it lol....and you say it already has the resistor soldered in? Is the wiring diagram for that somewhere on here or in the book? The book has one listed for reverse polarity locks, but it shows two relays. One on lock and one on unlock, but the wonderful page you sent me to only says to use it on The lock wire. The relay diagram says the relay uses +12v, green lock output wire(coming from alarm brain) and to cut the door lock motor wire and use that on 87a & 30, is that correct?