code alarm ca6225

BTW, Thanks for that link, it's great! I can't edit my post or I would have added it in.

The DEI 451M comes with a resistor pack with many of the most common resistors included.  With it you

should have no problems with the locks.  A 1,000 ohm resistor is available at RadioShack also.  However, you could try a direct connection with the Lock wire to see if that works.  You can try a direct connection with the Unlock wire through a 1K ohm resistor, also.  You might get away with it or even add a 1N4004 diode to see if that works and you don't need relays.   The CA6552 shows a diagram with relays for this style vehicle lock system on Page 18 of the install guide  ( Negative Multiplex Locks ) and DEI does recommend  using relays.   Here is a link to the 451M install guide :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=726See Wiring Diagram Type H

The FLCAN bypass module should be flashed with the FLC-AL(TB)-FM2 (V3.22) firmware.  Hopefully the seller

did this for you.  You can check the white label on the box to see which firmware it left the factory with.

The current FLCAN w/FLC-AL(TB) FM2 firmware install guide is #8786 dated 3/16/12.  The wiring

connections are pretty basic.  It appears that you can connect the FLCAN to the CA6552 via the D2D harness.  This will save only 3 wire connections ( shown in orange dashed lines ).  It looks like you will need two working, non-clone, keys to successfully program the bypass module to the vehicle.  If you go D2D, remember to set the FLCAN's install mode to Data ( one blink ) as shown on Page 12, prior to actual vehicle programming with the keys shown on Page 13.  If you do only need one key to program, it will be evident at Step 3.  Older PATSimmobilizer systems only needed 1 key to program the bypass, while newer PATS systems need two keys.

Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote: The DEI 451M comes with a resistor pack with many of the most common resistors included.  With it you should have no problems with the locks.  A 1,000 ohm resistor is available at RadioShack also.  However, you could try a direct connection with the Lock wire to see if that works.  You can try a direct connection with the Unlock wire through a 1K ohm resistor, also.  You might get away with it or even add a 1N4004 diode to see if that works and you don't need relays.   The CA6552 shows a diagram with relays for this style vehicle lock system on Page 18 of the install guide  ( Negative Multiplex Locks ) and DEI does recommend  using relays.   Here is a link to the 451M install guide :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=726 See Wiring Diagram Type H The FLCAN bypass module should be flashed with the FLC-AL(TB)-FM2 (V3.22) firmware.  Hopefully the seller did this for you.  You can check the white label on the box to see which firmware it left the factory with. The current FLCAN w/FLC-AL(TB) FM2 firmware install guide is #8786 dated 3/16/12.  The wiring connections are pretty basic.  It appears that you can connect the FLCAN to the CA6552 via the D2D harness.  This will save only 3 wire connections ( shown in orange dashed lines ).  It looks like you will need two working, non-clone, keys to successfully program the bypass module to the vehicle.  If you go D2D, remember to set the FLCAN's install mode to Data ( one blink ) as shown on Page 12, prior to actual vehicle programming with the keys shown on Page 13.  If you do only need one key to program, it will be evident at Step 3.  Older PATS immobilizer systems only needed 1 key to program the bypass, while newer PATS systems need two keys.

You were a godsend today! I believe I have everything I need and I'm ready to tackle it tonight after the wife and baby go to sleep. I soldered all connections that have the same connection points to each other and have them ready to go into the car later on. I was looking around and pricing the FLPROG cable...that thing is expensive lol...have you (or anyone else reading) seen any used ones pop up for sale frequently?

kreg357 wrote: The DEI 451M comes with a resistor pack with many of the most common resistors included.  With it you should have no problems with the locks.  A 1,000 ohm resistor is available at RadioShack also.  However, you could try a direct connection with the Lock wire to see if that works.  You can try a direct connection with the Unlock wire through a 1K ohm resistor, also.  You might get away with it or even add a 1N4004 diode to see if that works and you don't need relays.   The CA6552 shows a diagram with relays for this style vehicle lock system on Page 18 of the install guide  ( Negative Multiplex Locks ) and DEI does recommend  using relays.   Here is a link to the 451M install guide :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=726 See Wiring Diagram Type H The FLCAN bypass module should be flashed with the FLC-AL(TB)-FM2 (V3.22) firmware.  Hopefully the seller did this for you.  You can check the white label on the box to see which firmware it left the factory with. The current FLCAN w/FLC-AL(TB) FM2 firmware install guide is #8786 dated 3/16/12.  The wiring connections are pretty basic.  It appears that you can connect the FLCAN to the CA6552 via the D2D harness.  This will save only 3 wire connections ( shown in orange dashed lines ).  It looks like you will need two working, non-clone, keys to successfully program the bypass module to the vehicle.  If you go D2D, remember to set the FLCAN's install mode to Data ( one blink ) as shown on Page 12, prior to actual vehicle programming with the keys shown on Page 13.  If you do only need one key to program, it will be evident at Step 3.  Older PATS immobilizer systems only needed 1 key to program the bypass, while newer PATS systems need two keys.

Just looked at diagrams again. The 451m has a three plug harness similar to the one on the 6552, but it's backwards and also has an extra connection (red middle +12v). So I clipped the 451M harness off and did the same to the 6552 harness. I then soldered the blue to blue and the green to green coming from the 451M going to the 6552 harness. I did not connect the red wire as the 6552 manual says the middle connection on that 3 wire harness is not used. But looking at the wiring diagram for the negative multiplexed locks in the 6552 manual it shows a +12v connection between relays @ points 85 & 86. Is this red middle wire on the 3 wire 451M harness supposed to provide +12v? According to the 451M type H install the purple wire is connected to ground, the green is Lock & the blue is unlock, there is no +12v connection. I think this is my last hurdle. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks again for the help so far!

Red has to go to a constant 12v+. If you test your unit when it's powered up you will probably find that the middle pin is just that. You could have left the plug as was just used lock as unlock and vice versa. These products are made for professional installation, the guides on all the leading brands make assumptions for instance, knowing how to wire relays, diodes, etc and why you need relays with resistive multiplex locking systems, you know what status, GWA, and GWR are, thus beginners find the guides "bad" or make mistakes from lack of understanding.

As Howard points out, the center Red lead from the 451M goes to +12V constant.  I just did the same thing you did, clipping the connectors and combining the lock wires between the R/S and the 451M modules for an install planned for later today.  The Red wire was connected to a thick gauge +12V input wire to the R/S brain ( like the Red or RED / white wire on your CA6552 unit ).   All that is left is the direct connection of the GREEN/ Black wire to the lock wire on the vehicle and the Blue/Black wire, through a 1k ohm resistor, connected to that same vehicle lock wire.

As for a FLPROG cable, they are rare to find used, but can be had new for around $50.  It is the same as the iDatalink ADS USB cable.  However, you must be a registered, authorized, verified dealer / installed to gain access to that area of the WEB site.  http://www.flashlogic.com/   Click on the "Flash Your module" and then "Register a WEBLink Account" for more info.  

Soldering is fun!

Thanks for responding guys. I guess I'll either have to pay Worst Buy to get the Klon set up or buy another key from the dealer...whichever is cheaper....I just hopped back online to try to find a wiring diagram for my BCM. Looks like I'll also solder the +12v from the relay to one of the fat +12v wires.

I'm not familiar with the vehicle but just in case that BCM is a sleeper and shuts down, could I suggest fusebox main input constant or the ignition constant, fused 3-5 amps.

howie ll wrote: I'm not familiar with the vehicle but just in case that BCM is a sleeper and shuts down, could I suggest fusebox main input constant or the ignition constant, fused 3-5 amps.

Will do. I found the diagram and the BCM, but I'm struggling trying to get it out so I can get at the wires/harnesses on the BCM.

Actually it's not the KLON process but just a firmware flash on the module.   Some Best Buys are pretty helpful and will do it for free or a nominal fee.  An alternative to the FLCAN is the PKALL bypass module ( $40 ).     Link to PKALL info :    http://www.xpresskit.com/product.aspx?productid=196Soldering is fun!