strange wiring issue, alarm, 2010 edge

I began installing my 6552 alarm in my 2010 Edge. I believed I had wired everything up correctly, so I connected all harnesses to test. What happened next I'm not really sure Is possible, but that's why I came here. I reconnected the battery and to my surprise the headlights came on, so I went to turn them off, except the switch was already off. The hi beam light on the cluster is lit. I can not turn hem off ow without disconnecting the battery. I disconnected the harnesses from the alarm, but the problem remains. Before I undo what took me a few hours to do I'd rather see if anyone here has seen this issue before. I used the ignition switch to connect the alarm to and for the remainder of the wires I used the wires in the kick panel instead of the sjb as reaching the wires on the sjb was proving to be too difficult. Also, I installed a flash logic flcan bypass. This setup was installed and removed from my wife's old mazda5 by me, so I know it was working prior to being removed and sitting. The FL-Can firmware I have also lists the Ford Edge as being compatible, but do I need to have it reflashed? During programming it gets to a,point where it flashed red which is supposed to tell me it's a firmware issue. I tried a factory reset and it didn't work. Any help would be appreciated. Mthamks!

Tail & parking lights stay on too

What did you hook your parking light wire too ?   Did you test before you connected ? There should be a PURPLE / white positive trigger wire in the DKP for parking lights. It seems you may have burnt a trace on the headlight switchIf i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

On that harness I connected the parking input to a constant 12v(all of my constant wires use the same source. Then I connected the parking output ire to the PURPLE / white wire in the kick.

Not trying to freak you out, but i saw a similar problem before. I had an installer that was connecting the positive lights on an Edge and found a wire on the back of the switch that went to 12volts when you turned the lights on, so he connected it to the alarm. Not sure what the wire was for, but as we know there is no 12volt connection in that location just a negative.  He fried the BCM which controls the lights...Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

There is a burnt trace inside the light switch assembly. It is an easy repair. I have not fixed one on an Edge, but the trucks are very easy to repair. Pop the switch out and remove 3 screws. Remove the back cover and look for the trace that has blown like a fuse would blow. Using some very small wire, (An IDE hard drive cable is a very suitable candidate) Strip the insulation off a few inches of the wire then tin it with solder. Then solder this jumper across the open in the trace. ****** Check the polarity of the wire you tagged. The only way this happens is if the polarity is wrong. ********

I have repaired about 20 of these light switches for every stereo shop in my town. I have never seen or heard of them taking out the BCM. You know how the dealerships are about troubleshooting, I am betting that they ordered a BCM, and when it did not fix it, they found the light switch was the problem. Then in an effort to not look like an idiot, they left the new BCM and light switch and charged the shop for both.

Craig, sounds about right.

i am an idiot wrote: There is a burnt trace inside the light switch assembly. It is an easy repair. I have not fixed one on an Edge, but the trucks are very easy to repair. Pop the switch out and remove 3 screws. Remove the back cover and look for the trace that has blown like a fuse would blow. Using some very small wire, (An IDE hard drive cable is a very suitable candidate) Strip the insulation off a few inches of the wire then tin it with solder. Then solder this jumper across the open in the trace. ****** Check the polarity of the wire you tagged. The only way this happens is if the polarity is wrong. ********

Connected a PURPLE / white wire to the light trigger switch. The 12v+ is the same 12v+ used for everything else, so the polarity should be ok. The thing that has me puzzled is also the fact that the alarm doesn't unlock/lock the doors. In one wire diagram I saw that the factory alarm & disarm wires were supposedly non exist ant on this car, but on another it gave me a pair of wires to use. Do you guys also know if I can use the same bypass, or do I need to get reflashed? Thanks for the info, I'm going to go out and try to pull the light switch now.

Are there ever dupes of the same wires? There looked to be dupes of the PURPLE / white wire...this switch is not coming off easily, any suggestions on persuading it?