strange wiring issue, alarm, 2010 edge

Let me see if I can find a pic of that switch. The truck switches are easy to get out.

Is this it? If it is, I am pretty sure that there are 3 spring clips behind the bezel, you have to push them in and the switch will come through the bezel. It comes out the front.

Ok, got it out and removed the screws. I don't see any burnt traces and the light also stay on with the switch removed. It also stays this way even if I leave the parking input wire disconnected. I'm going to try to disconnect the +12v constant connection to alarm and reconnect battery rule out current wiring. Any other suggestions?

I popped it out and there is no burnt traces. I just don't see what else could be causing it, especially with the switch removed and the parking light input wire disconnected, but something is supplying that circuit with juice...

Some of the switches have traces on both sides of the circuit board. the board unlocks from the housing with the same type of clips that hold the switch to the dash. Once you get the clips over the edge of the board, the board will just slide out of the assembly. Check the other side of the board too.

How did you test the wires with the battery unhooked? Depending on the bypass and firmware on the bypass will determine if it will work on that vehicle.

i am an idiot wrote: Some of the switches have traces on both sides of the circuit board. the board unlocks from the housing with the same type of clips that hold the switch to the dash. Once you get the clips over the edge of the board, the board will just slide out of the assembly. Check the other side of the board too.

The other side is not accessible. I removed the pub completely from the housing. I can see one side, but the other side is covered by plastic and dip switches. If it was the switch would the lights continue to stay lit with the switch removed from the vehicle.

auto enhancers wrote: How did you test the wires with the battery unhooked? Depending on the bypass and firmware on the bypass will determine if it will work on that vehicle.

The wires for the bypass are the rx, tx & ignition wires. The firmware is ADS-AL(TB)-FM2. Didn't test before connection as those were easily identifiable.

topless stang wrote: i am an idiot wrote: Some of the switches have traces on both sides of the circuit board. the board unlocks from the housing with the same type of clips that hold the switch to the dash. Once you get the clips over the edge of the board, the board will just slide out of the assembly. Check the other side of the board too. The other side is not accessible. I removed the pub completely from the housing. I can see one side, but the other side is covered by plastic and dip switches. If it was the switch would the lights continue to stay lit with the switch removed from the vehicle.

I looked up the cost of replacing the headlight switch. It's only a $30 part, but before I go down that path can someone tell me if the issue I'm having continues after the switch is removed...because that's what's happening to me and with my limited knowledge it should stop after removing a shorted out switch....but that's why I came here, to be educated.

If the issue continues after the switch is out that should be telling you it ain't it since the BCM needs to see the negative trigger off the switch for them to be on. Same issue we had, lights stayed on. Did you try connecting a positive light trigger to a wire at the switch? That's what our installer did and poof.

Have you gone thru every fuse in the car to be sure? Long shot but worth checking...

Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services