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need a discreet sounding chirp siren


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tillithz 
Member - Posts: 48
Member spacespace
Joined: July 06, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: April 26, 2008 at 12:01 AM / IP Logged  
right on, the reason i ask is because many of the factory vehicle stuff is a speaker and not a beeper/piezo or siren. But knowing that you arent supplying a special frequency to that beeper merely 12 volts dc then that simplifies everything. Also, what freq. beeper is that you have?
KPierson 
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Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: April 26, 2008 at 8:44 AM / IP Logged  
If I remember right its around 2500-3000hz.
Kevin Pierson
KPierson 
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Posted: April 26, 2008 at 8:59 AM / IP Logged  

Yes, but you still need to control the duration of the pulse, and when it actually pulses.  You can't use a door lock actuator output because they are too long.  You need a dedicated controller.

You could possibly use an alarm siren output, but you would need to put a delay on the actual siren so that if the siren output is on for longer then ~0.5 seconds the siren kicks in and starts doing its thing.

I don't have an aftermarket alarm on my car, so I had to do the whole controller.  I also wanted my parking lights to flash, so I used every wire on the thing!

Kevin Pierson
tillithz 
Member - Posts: 48
Member spacespace
Joined: July 06, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: April 26, 2008 at 9:41 AM / IP Logged  
thats cool.
Well, what I was thinking and in fact I had already done this but tried with the factory device which is more like a speaker then a beeper was use a tr7 and horn output from my alarm. In my case I can address the timing via the alarm (10ms, 16ms, 20ms, and 30ms)Also, if that isnt enough control the tr7 itself would work.
I also wanted it to ONLY sound the beeper when arming/disarming and chirps are enabled. So if i armed or disarmed silently I dont want it to sound the beeper. I also didnt want it to sound when/if the alarm went off. But like I said, i think i have that part figured out and will write something up for the rest of the readers once done with model numbers and pictures if possible so that its easily discussed and integrated for almost anyone
trevors 
Copper - Posts: 86
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 14, 2008
Posted: April 26, 2008 at 4:58 PM / IP Logged  
KPierson wrote:

Half assed???

Modified on-the-shelf PacTec plastic enclosure ( www.PacTec.com)

Genuine Molex connectors ( www.digikey.com, www.mouser.com)
Modified Projects Unlimited electronic beeper ( www.projectsunlimited.com)
Wiring ( www.delcity.net)

The Molex connectors are nice, but the crimp tool is outragiously expensive (~$200).  If you are only doing a few you can get a knock off version fairly reasonable, but I wouldn't trust the crimped connections to last forever.

The PacTec enclosures are great.  Hammond also makes some nice enclosures.  I've been using more Hammond then PacTec lately.

Delcity has great prices on bulk wire.  I haven't been able to find a place to beat their prices on 20 ga stranded automotive grade wire.

Looks very clean -- good show!  I haven't seen Molex or their competitors available to the general public.  Although I think of DigiKey for electronic components, connecters didn't occur to me!  I just today picked up a couple 1/8" mini-phone panel jacks and cable plugs and I expect my "project box" to arrive late next week :).  I'm using the wire left over from the keyless entry install.  I can get away with the mini-plugs because it's just two wires in and two wires out, but it isn't my preference for wiring a car.

I installed the "peeper" under the hood today -- there was one open spot on an actuator shelf adjacent the HVAC relay box at the far left of the firewall.  A single tiewrap secured it.  Routed the wiring through the fender like oem -- used quick disconnects for the actual connection to the piezo, but then taped and tiewraped them.  Can't finish it properly until the cabinet arrives, but it's working fine -- just need to turn down the loudness a tad.

trevors 
Copper - Posts: 86
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 14, 2008
Posted: April 26, 2008 at 5:06 PM / IP Logged  
KPierson wrote:

That entire thing is soley for the electronic beep.

It has constant power and ground so that it can operate with the igntion off.

It has an ignition input so it won't beep if the car is on

It has a + door lock input and a + door unlock input so that it knows when to beep, and what beep pattern to use (one beep for lock, two beeps for unlock, one more beep for priority unlock)

It has a 200mA (-) parking light output to flash the parking lights (same patturn as the beep, just longer).

Sounds like you went just a tad fancier than mine, but it also sounds like you didn't already have the keyless entry (I finished installing a standard box a little over a week ago.)  If the keyless entry controller thinks it's cool to flash the parking lights, that's good enough for me (the peeper will fire off too :)!) 

KPierson 
Platinum - Posts: 3,527
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: April 14, 2005
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: April 26, 2008 at 6:08 PM / IP Logged  

I used my OEM keyless system.  For some reason it flashes twice when you lock and not at all when you unlock.

I fixed it, though!

Kevin Pierson
trevors 
Copper - Posts: 86
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 14, 2008
Posted: April 26, 2008 at 6:58 PM / IP Logged  
KPierson wrote:

I used my OEM keyless system.  For some reason it flashes twice when you lock and not at all when you unlock.

I fixed it, though!

That does sound a little unusual!  My 1990 Eclipse didn't have keyless entry (they weren't big then), but it did have a factory security system.  So after I recently  picked up a Scion, I decided I liked keyless entry and wanted the Eclipse to have it too (on the other hand, the Scion DIDN'T have a security system, so I installed the factory accessory.)  That led to the Keyless Entry controller, remote lift-gate release, and then the "peeper" :)!  I'd still like to have remote lock security enable, and I'll probably be tinkering with that next!

trevors 
Copper - Posts: 86
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 14, 2008
Posted: April 27, 2008 at 8:58 AM / IP Logged  

KPierson wrote:
Modified on-the-shelf PacTec plastic enclosure ( www.PacTec.com)
Genuine Molex connectors ( www.digikey.com, www.mouser.com)
Modified Projects Unlimited electronic beeper ( www.projectsunlimited.com)
Wiring ( www.delcity.net)

The Molex connectors are nice, but the crimp tool is outragiously expensive (~$200).  If you are only doing a few you can get a knock off version fairly reasonable, but I wouldn't trust the crimped connections to last forever.

The PacTec enclosures are great.  Hammond also makes some nice enclosures.  I've been using more Hammond then PacTec lately.

Delcity has great prices on bulk wire.  I haven't been able to find a place to beat their prices on 20 ga stranded automotive grade wire.

 

By the way - thanks for the source info.  I've been looking them over and am impressed!  I see this Hammond box would have housed my oneshot nicely :)!  http://www.hammondmfg.com/dwg2XXFL.htm  Hopefully I have enough leftover wire for the remote-lock-security-enable project, otherwise, I may have to order some.

Did you etch your own PC board?  I'm using an old CSC Proto Board for breadboarding and even older perfboard for point to point building.  Does the job, but point to point wiring to DIP sockets can be a little hairy :).  Almost all bits and pieces come from a box of miscellany I accumulated over past years of playing with electronics, but I occasionally have to break down and purchase something :)!

KPierson 
Platinum - Posts: 3,527
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: April 14, 2005
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: April 27, 2008 at 9:09 AM / IP Logged  
www.4pcb.com has great prices for prototype boards.  You can get the boards for $6-7 a piece usually (in prototype form).  I then have a few other sites for full featured production quality boards.
Kevin Pierson
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