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791 xv 2000 jeep grand cherokee


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chriswallace187 
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Posted: May 26, 2008 at 2:56 AM / IP Logged  
Check to make sure you aren't in valet mode(LED on solid is valet mode)...also give it some time(1 minute should be enough) after you arm in order for it to set.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
faberry1 
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Joined: March 16, 2007
Location: Tennessee, United States
Posted: May 26, 2008 at 10:05 AM / IP Logged  

Sorry to put you through such a headache. I got a big one from this. On the comment before about the door locks, the actual door-lock switch on the back lift gate, and the passenger front door are stripped or something. The back lift gate will not lock or unlock, I have to manually lock and unlock it. The passenger side door, will unlock, but will not lock, again I have to lock it manually. The alarm could be sensing that the passenger door is not locked since they are electronically sensed through the information system. When I arm the system the door will flash on the transnitter, almost like it is detecting a door unlocked or something. Sort of like I seen before when I was trying to get the system to army and it wouldn't. The reason that was, it was because when I hooked up the hood pin switch wire to the underhood lamp, it was seeing ground constantly detecting the hood was open. So I used the push-pin switch supplied with the alarm and made a hood pin myself. Using the toggle switch that was for the nuetral safety switch, I used that for the blue/white for remote start activation and de-activation. Simply turn it to on or off.

So I got everything to work right except the remote start activation. I know I have to have everything hooked up right, because the starterkill works right. So, the only other thing has to be the programming. When I did that honda a while back, when I transmitted the remote start (*+*) It would show me on the transmitter it was going to remote start, and a few seconds later it remotely started. I get nothing on my transmitter. You know the tail pipe and the little puff of smoke comming out of it? Not to insult your intellegence. But like I said earlier, all voltage, and mA's are good on the satellite relay, the brain and everything else. Darn it it just won't remotly start. By the way, It's not in valet. But when I turn the ignition on then off, the lights flash twice. Is this normal? Also when I arm it the LED will flash 3 times, then 3 times again and so on. Sometimes it will flash twice, then sometimes it will flash one time. If any programming thoughts or suggestions please let me know. Thanks again for the info.

Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic
chriswallace187 
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Joined: March 11, 2002
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: May 26, 2008 at 12:41 PM / IP Logged  
I'm 99.9% certain that the screwed-up door lock actuators won't cause problems with the door sensing. Chrysler to my knowledge has never used any kind of position sensing in their lock actuators, and even if they did it would only sense that the door was unlocked, not that it was opened.
The door switches are built into the door latches at the back of each respective door. If you want to rule them out as a problem, watch the domelight after you shut all doors(don't try to arm the alarm at that time)...it should stay on for a few seconds and then fade out like normal.
Also for now...disconnect that toggle switch until you have the r/s working properly. That WHITE/ blue (-) activation input is designed to receive momentary pulses to ground...it may not hurt to have it constantly there but just do this to make sure that it's not causing problems.
Make sure again that the neutral safety BLACK/ white wire is connected to ground. If it's not the remote start's likely to not do anything.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
JWorm 
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Joined: December 11, 2002
Location: New Hampshire, United States
Posted: May 26, 2008 at 9:29 PM / IP Logged  
You mentioned using the toggle switch on the WHITE/ blue activation input. That switch is supposed to be on the BLACK/ white neutral safety input. The other side of the switch goes to ground, then you need to put it in the ON position. That is probably why it won't try to remote start. The WHITE/ blue wire does NOT need to be connected to anything.
I have my doubts about the XK531 being able to detect a door trigger. I would connect the yellow (-) wire at the underdash light directly to the green (-) door trigger input of the Viper. If the domelight doesn't shut off immediately when arming, then you will need to turn off the error notification in programming.
faberry1 
Member - Posts: 42
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Joined: March 16, 2007
Location: Tennessee, United States
Posted: May 27, 2008 at 1:21 AM / IP Logged  
Shoot! I misunderstood in the earlier post. I was thinking you did not have to connect the neutral safety wire up at all. I already reconnected the green  (-) door trigger to the courtesy light's yellow wire. I'm going to try to hook up that neutral safety switch wire up now. Thanks for the info. Catch you in the next post. Hopefully it will be good and not another bad one.
Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic
faberry1 
Member - Posts: 42
Member spacespace
Joined: March 16, 2007
Location: Tennessee, United States
Posted: May 29, 2008 at 1:35 AM / IP Logged  
Ok Chriswallace187. I hooked the wire up and at first it would spin the starter for a split second. Then I tried again and again. Walked away and tried one more time and it started. Then I shut it down and then it did it again. Start for a split second and have not tried again. The white blue/wire is not hooked to any switch or ground. But everything else seems to work fine. It flashes the lights before remote start, turns on the accessories and then a split second start. Maybe you will know what this is. It seems to have the same problem as It did before on that honda I did. But on the honda I never used a bypass kit. Or maybe I did not need one for the honda. They took it to a professional and I never knew what the problem was, nor did they. Hopefully you could help. Thanks. 
Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic
faberry1 
Member - Posts: 42
Member spacespace
Joined: March 16, 2007
Location: Tennessee, United States
Posted: May 29, 2008 at 1:40 AM / IP Logged  
Now I just walked out there again and it started again. Do you know what this might mean. Is something might just be over loading something, or is that just remoter start?
Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic
chriswallace187 
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Joined: March 11, 2002
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: May 29, 2008 at 11:21 AM / IP Logged  
Where's your tach connected, and did you program it?
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
faberry1 
Member - Posts: 42
Member spacespace
Joined: March 16, 2007
Location: Tennessee, United States
Posted: May 29, 2008 at 3:26 PM / IP Logged  
Tach's connected to tan wire on #2 injector line. The only tan wire I have. Yes I programmed for the unit to learn tach. Start the vehicle, valet button, stayed on constant and so on.
Ricky Berryman
2000 Mazda Protege
US.Army
Mechanic
Mike M2 
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Joined: June 29, 2005
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Posted: May 29, 2008 at 5:50 PM / IP Logged  
I had the same issue with my Caravan when i used an injector wire. MY DEI RS would spin the starter barely enough to start, sometimes it wouldn't. It was worse in the mornings it seemed. I reconnected to a coil wire and all was good. It did tell me it learned tach thru the injector wire too. Move the wire to a coil and i bet it will work....
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
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