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2008 mustang window mod 530t


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hazeleye94 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: January 26, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: August 08, 2008 at 1:15 PM / IP Logged  
Here is what I found.... answers in bold!

Hope this helps... let me know if you need anything else.

i am an idiot wrote:
In the drivers door module, there is a wire labeled DACC it is RED / Lt.Blue in color. I am assuming that it is a switched voltage on this wire to only allow the window to work when the key is on. Can you verify that there is 12 volts on this wire only when the key is on or until you open the door?  This wire showed 12V while switch was at ACC and ON positions. It did not show voltage with switch off.  Door open or closed did not change anything.
The WHITE/ black wire is the window up wire. There will be 12 volts on that wire when the window is traveling in up direction, I need to know if there is ground on the violet/lt.green wire when the window is traveling up? I can't tell if there is ground on this wire only when auto up is activated. Attach red lead to the WHITE/ black wire. Black lead to the violet/lt.green wire. Now roll window up without activating auto up. Is there 12 volts displayed on your meter? If not do it again this time activating the auto up feature. Let me know what you find out. With leads placed on wires listed, meter showed neg 11V at rest, and pos 1.1V while traveling up.  The meter remained neg 11V while auto up was engaged.

i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,667
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: August 09, 2008 at 8:35 AM / IP Logged  

It appears as though all we have to do is to apply power to the DACC wire (RED / lt blue) and a positive voltage to the window up wire (WHITE/ black). 

In order to not cut any wires untill we know we can get it to work, is it possible to get the pins out of the molex plug?  I can't tell if the plug is in the door or in the kick panel.  What we need to do is to supply a temporary fused power source to power the end of the RED / lt blue wire that goes into the motor without powering the smart junction box.  This will be a simple install of a relay if this works.  Fuse that wire at 5 amps first if the window does move or attempt to move you can up it to 10 amps. 

You must power the above wire and keep it powered while trying the below.  Leave the 5 amp fuse in each wire until you see the window move or attempt to move.  No movement or attempt to move  and a blown fuse= stop and let me know.  Movement or attempt to move and then a blown fuse = up the fuse size to 10 amps in the one that blew.  If only one blows leave the other at 5.

Now with separate fused power source (5 amps) apply power to the WHITE/ black wire.  If the window does not attempt to move and blows either fuse, stop and let me know.  If the window moves or at least attempts to move, up the blown fuse to NO LARGER than a 10 amp fuse.  You do not need to cut or disconnect the WHITE/ black wire, just touch the temp wire to the terminal or in the plug.

I do not remember if you wanted window up and down, if you need both, we have just did up.  All that needs to happen to test down is remove the wire from WHITE/ black and touch it to yellow.  I also need to know what kind of output your window module has?  Can we time it to have a 5 second output?  Tell me whatever you can about the module.

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