the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

clifford 70.5, 2001 galant


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
mark 17 
Copper - Posts: 63
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 22, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: August 03, 2008 at 3:15 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks guys, this helps out alot. I love this web site.  i wish it was here years ago when i installed my first alarm (viper), it went well.  this is my second so I will definitely be back with more questions soon. again thanks.

By the way, how much difference is there bettween the viper and clifford if there both made by dei.  when i was looking at the matrix 70.5 and i think it was the viper 7901 they both had very similar features even some of the some componants, is one better?

JWorm 
Platinum - Posts: 2,208
Platinum spacespace
Joined: December 11, 2002
Location: New Hampshire, United States
Posted: August 03, 2008 at 4:36 PM / IP Logged  
Viper, Clifford and Python are all the same, just slightly different colors and shapes of remotes.
DEI does it so they can have a Viper dealer on one corner, then a couple miles down the road, a Clifford dealer, then down the road a Python dealer. It can help prevent price shopping from uneducated consumers. SImilar in how GM has multiple brands, as well as Ford.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: August 04, 2008 at 2:40 AM / IP Logged  
Use reverse GREEN/ red as your neutral safety, tach is on left hand plug at rear of inst. panel, either white yellow or white green. Alternatively go to the injectors, one colour will be the same on all (the common), use any of the others.
mark 17 
Copper - Posts: 63
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 22, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: August 05, 2008 at 10:30 PM / IP Logged  

Ok, so i've got the control module and the satellite relay mounted in thier locations and the wires loomed and ran to where i believe i will need to make my conections. my question is about tapping a constant power source for both units.  I have my constant 12 from the ignition ( blue/yel) heavy gauge. The control module has a small gauge fused red wire for input, and the satellite relay has three heavy gauge fused red wires for its input. How do i tap all four of these wires into this one blue / YELLOW ignition wire? This doesn't sound right to me, is it.

Do you guys solder all you connections, or maybe crimp first to make sure everything works then go back and solder?

chriswallace187 
Gold - Posts: 1,661
Gold spacespace
Joined: March 11, 2002
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: August 05, 2008 at 11:19 PM / IP Logged  
That is correct on 3 red or RED / stripe wires going to the one at the ignition harness. You can just use the 2 heavy gauge ones that are already fused instead of cutting the looped one.
The reason there are multiple 12 volt inputs for the relay satellite is because some vehicles will have several different feeds to the ignition switch.
Also, I think howie's right except for using GREEN/ red reverse as a neutral safety input???
My understanding of the neutral safety wire is that it's a vestige from the early days of remote starters(say mid to late 80s) where many cars and trucks were fuel injected and had mechanical starter safeties instead of using the switch on the transmission like they do now.
Apparently some models of GM had a separate wire which went to the engine control module that let it know when the shifter was in park or neutral. I have no idea why GM would bother, nor have I ever actually done an install using that wire, but it seems every manufacturer around at the time decided to have an input to use it and they haven't gotten rid of them since.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
mark 17 
Copper - Posts: 63
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 22, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: August 05, 2008 at 11:41 PM / IP Logged  

Ok, this helps.  So how should i make the actual connections, with a really big crimp connector?  I would have the three large gauge red wires from the relay, the small gauge red from the control module and the large gauge blue / YELLOW from battery on one side of the crimped connector. The other side would only have the one blue/ yellow wire to the ignition switch.  is that right?

Or did you say i could use only one of the three reds into the rs relay.

howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: August 06, 2008 at 4:37 AM / IP Logged  

CW, What am I doing wrong here? I always wired that cable to either the parking brake on manuals or reverse on autos such that it sits on ground when brake up and goes pos when brake released or transmission shifted out of park.

Mark, solder, don't crimp unless you have a professional crimping tool. I only crimp grounding ring terminals. Also have fun if you use 530ts or similar for window closing, wiring is ign+,  neg and data as far as the motor, the up and downs are attatched to the motor which on the back doors you have to drop to get at. It works beautifully but it's a right pain.

chriswallace187 
Gold - Posts: 1,661
Gold spacespace
Joined: March 11, 2002
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: August 06, 2008 at 1:19 PM / IP Logged  
I never thought of that really - I guess it doesn't hurt to have the redundancy there. I've always just grounded the wire through the toggle switch DEI supplies.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
mark 17 
Copper - Posts: 63
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 22, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: August 09, 2008 at 7:39 PM / IP Logged  
 Hay guys, im finally making a little progress. I've got the siren and pin switch mounted under the hood and wires ran inside.  I've started making control module connections and am at the dome light supervision wire.  My install guild says the BLACK/ white (-) dome light output wire should be hooked to a relay to run the dome light because it only supplies 200mA.  I have a disk from car alarm pros that says i can use the door trigger wire(GREEN/ orange) (-), to make this connection.  Does this sound right to you guys, how should i do this and how will it work?
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: August 10, 2008 at 4:58 AM / IP Logged  

Without going into explanations, if your alarm module has TWO BLACK/ whites, then join one to ground, the other to the alarm's green. If only ONE then alarm black white to relay 85, 12v+ to 86, ground to 87 and 30 to alarms green. Don't confuse yourself with too much information at this stage of the game.

N.B. If your dome light turns on on unlock or open door and stays on for either 30secs or so before door close and ign. on then you don't need it anyway!

Do the simple things first.

Page of 4

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Thursday, April 25, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer