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clifford 70.5, 2001 galant


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mark 17 
Copper - Posts: 63
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 22, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: August 10, 2008 at 7:27 PM / IP Logged  

   Thanks Howie, and yes my dome light stays on for 30 seconds after the door has been opened and closed.  I've made some real progress here in two days I'm over half way through with my connections.

I had to skip the WHITE/ blue(-) remote start activation input wire.  My install guild does not say where to connect it. It shows a diagram of it being connected to what looks like the hood pin switch, i've already made that connection, should this wire be connected there as well?

chriswallace187 
Gold - Posts: 1,661
Gold spacespace
Joined: March 11, 2002
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: August 11, 2008 at 10:30 AM / IP Logged  
That's not the hood pin, it's a regular momentary push button switch (like the valet/program switch DEI supplies with their alarms/RS).
That wire's purpose is to activate the remote start when it sees 1, 2, or 3 ground pulses(depending on what you've programmed it to). DEI suggests it can be wired to a push button switch so that the valet take-over can be done without fumbling for the remote, but your install will work fine without that wire connected to anything.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
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mark 17 
Copper - Posts: 63
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 22, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: August 11, 2008 at 11:55 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks for the info on that, I think I will leave that one unconnected. 

I'm getting down to the end, I have to install the antenna/reciever and the shock senser and make my heavy gauge wire connections to the rs satellite relay.  I've already connected the three (red) 12v input wires to the constant 12 at the ignition.  I'm i correct in these next steps?  i completely cut the starter wire and connect the (purple) wire to the starter side wire and the (green) to the key side wire.  The (orange) accessory output wire only gets tapped into the vehicle accessory wire for climate control. And the (pink) ignition output wire only gets tapped into the vehicle ignition wire. I don't think my car has a second ignition wire so i shouldn't have to connect the (pink/white). well thank again for all the help.

Hay, I've got three pages on this now, should i change the topic or just keep going?

mark 17 
Copper - Posts: 63
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 22, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: August 14, 2008 at 12:32 AM / IP Logged  
 Can someone tell me the best way to make the heavy gauge connections for the rs satellite relay.  I already have the two reds and one RED / white soldered to the constant 12 from the ignition. How do you guys do it, can i just strip the wire back a little and solder the other wire onto the side of it?  also, the only wire i actually cut is the starter wire for the green and purple wires, right?  I just want to be sure I'm reading this right.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: August 14, 2008 at 2:13 AM / IP Logged  

What you've done is correct, but there is a thick red in that area going to the fusebox which would stand you in better than the ign feed. Join your cables into one by soldering and sleeving then strip your feeder either with strippers, ideal standard etc or a stanley knife, push a small hole through it, run your cable through the hole and solder, make sure the solder flows, tape over (Scotch 33+) and you're done.Make sure the starter cut wires go the right way, i.e. to ign side and starter side.

As a point of interest because I was running other stuff through I ran all the starter cables to the battery.

mark 17 
Copper - Posts: 63
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 22, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: August 15, 2008 at 12:25 AM / IP Logged  
 Thanks man,  Saterday morning ill be out there doing that.  I'll let you know how far i get. iI'm hoping to be able to put the fuses back in and do some programing on the remote.
mark 17 
Copper - Posts: 63
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 22, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: August 16, 2008 at 4:11 PM / IP Logged  

The install is a success, partially . The alarm is fuctioning great, I will install the window module and trunk sileniod later. 

The remote start will not keep the engine running.  It  start but immediately dies.  I have the second accessory wire connected, i didn't at first.  It is programmed to voltage sence and i think i have the run time set at 12 minutes. How can i find out if there is an immobilizer. Can you think of anything else that might cause this.

mark 17 
Copper - Posts: 63
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 22, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: August 16, 2008 at 4:16 PM / IP Logged  
 An immobilizer wouldn't even let the engine crank, would it?
megaman 
Copper - Posts: 385
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 24, 2008
Location: Montana, United States
Posted: August 16, 2008 at 4:22 PM / IP Logged  

Yes, there's an immobilizer on that vehicle.  You are experiencing exactly what you should with that vehicle... it starts and then immediately dies.  Put your factory key in the ignition and then remote starting without turning the key.  It should run.

You'll need a universal bypass, such as DEI's 556U, and you'll lose one of your keys.

mark 17 
Copper - Posts: 63
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 22, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: August 17, 2008 at 12:35 AM / IP Logged  
  Thanks man,  that's exactly what it was, I tried it with the key in and it started.  I installed the 556u module and now it remote starts like it should but, only on the second crank.  I push the button twice and it cranks briefely but does not start, then on it's own, after 5 or10 second or so it cranks again and does start successfully.  Any ideas how to get it to fire on the first crank?
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