2003 passat lock/unlock wiring

I didn't mention the factory colors in the car because it had already been said. I know you don't have a remote start/alarm, the purpose of hooking up the factory disarm wire FROM the clifford TO the car is to disarm the car's factory alarm automatically before remote start. This way when you remote start the car, the factory alarm will not start honking like it's being broken into/stolen. Like it has been said before, the wires you're looking for should be in the driver's door, wheather or not they are the colors you have been given, they are there. The easiest way to find them would be to follow wires coming from the driver's door key cylinder which WILL involve removing the entire door panel and running wires into the door through the door boot (or molex plug) DO NOT just connect wires from the remote start to wires in the car that you think are them without testing, you could seriously damage your car's electrical system if you send the wrong pulse down the wrong wire. Be ESPECIALLY careful with the bypass module. Can Hi and Can Low wires are NOT something you want to pulse random signals, this type of foolishness could render your car innoperable.

Green from the clifford is lock and will connect to RED / green IN THE CAR, blue is unlock and will connect to RED / blue IN THE CAR, your factory disarm wire FROM THE CLIFFORD will also connect to your RED / blue unlock wire in the car.

The technical support group at Clifford did not help you out because their systems are designed to be PROFESSIONALLY installed, and they will not warranty or encourage their products to be installed by anyone else other than an authorized retailer with professional technicians.

As stated before, if you're truely confident by all means continue the installation yourself, but don't go doing foolish things like splicing wires without testing. Test your wires to know you have the right ones first.

Another way to test your wires is by connecting your positive lead on your multimeter to a constant 12v source (a wire that is hot at all times wheather the car is on or off) and probe the wire you are testing with your negative lead. Once you've done that turn the key in the driver's door cylinder and watch for the meter to show 12v ONLY while you're holding the key in the lock/unlock position. when you return the key back to neatural position, it should read 0v.

This is starting to get stupid. THESE WIRES ARE NOT IN THE DOOR JAM OR IN THE CAR OR ON THE LOCK SWITCH IN THE DRIVER'S DOOR. IN ALL THESE PLACES these are data signals not voltage. Remove door panel, look at a loom attached to the inner metal skin. It runs from the lock mechanism to the processor attached to your window motor. Nothing to do with the lock switch, this is a different circuit which will lock/unlock but not deadlock and will not turn off the factory alarm. don't use it. Throw the catch on the door lock before testing otherwise it won't work. Did you say you already had it working? I noticed you mentioned can units. You will need one as A) you have to by-pass the transponder and B) The factory alarm. IS YOUR CAR MANUAL OR AUTO?

Awesome.  Thank you guys so much for clearing this up.  Now I just have to take the door apart when I get off work.  I had the bottom part of the door off, but didn't take the top part off yet to get to the actual door locking mechanism yet.  I had to hurry and put the stuff back together to drive the car to work today.

My other question about the remote start system is that when I start the car...   the parking lights flash on and off while it is running , no horn blowing or anything.....  Is this standard on the  Clifford (as some people have stated in another forum), or is this because I am not deactivating the factory alarm with the unlock?

2nd, Do I hook my Clifford Factory alarm DISARM and Facory alarm DISARM to these same door locking wires?

I haven't hooked them up, because i was unsure.  You also have to realize that I have been confused very much by conflicting information that I have been finding on the web and other forums.  Thats why I came here to ask you guys BEFORE doing any wiring in the door.   

I will find these two colored wires at the door cylinder lock itself when I get home or this weekend.  My only other question is about what another person said about using the Cliffords factory alarm arm/disarm to unlock doors, start car, lock doors back when I just hit the button to start the car.....    Do I hook these wires in the same door lock/unlock location?

Just asking questions, guys.  No need to get upset.  Remember........  the two wires I tested in the door jam also run almost the entire length in the door and I could have easily made a huge mistake and hooked up to them because, hey, they are "in the door".  LOL.  Thank goodness for this forum and your help or I probably would have.  I was clueless that the correct wires of the same color are actually located at the door locking cylinder itself.  I thank you.  If I can, I will post a pic of this elusive door lock cylinder & wires, because I have yet to actuallys see one on the net doing a search.

Still waiting on a answer to the factory alarm/disarm method another mentioned.  They hook to the same wires?

Hummm.......  I see you mentioned they run from the cylinder to the window/lock switch...  I didn't find these wire colors (directwire info) there at all at the switch and the wires are really tiny by the way.  The window/lock switch is really easy to remove and wouldn't even require removing door panel.  Not my luck i'm sure.  I'll just have to take the cover off and find the wire coming from the lock cylinder.  I just hate european door panels.  The idatalink is easy because you can just wire in at the driver side kick panel, but it also cost $90.  I'm sure its not worth that to just run 2 wires in the backside of your door to the lock.

Do yourself a favor and take the door panel off.  take it off.  (one more time) take the door panel off!  Trying to work on a car without the proper panels removed is like trying to rebuild the engine through the tailpipe.

The wires you are looking for are not, NOT, at the window/lock switch panel.  As stated above they are connected to the door lock module inside the door which cannot be accessed by simply removing the window/lock switch panel.

The parking lights will flash when it's remote started unless you program it for constant, Feature 4.  Also do yourself a favor and turn off the ignition controlled locks, Feature 17 and 18. 

The factory alarm will be accompanied by the horn honking.  If the horn doesn't honk, then the alarm hasn't been set off.

As far as the factory alarm goes, if the idatalink doesn't already turn off the factory alarm, then you'll have to connect the Alarm-Disarm wire from the Clifford to the Unlock of the car, and diode isolate.

Keep up the trial and error and you'll get it.  Remember, all of us here started out the same way.

Can we add blinking lights to Howie II's post?