viper 5900, 96 f150 door lock issue

1 - I have everything else pretty much squared away except i noticed that the door locks work normally in the truck just fine I might add but when I arm and unarm the vehicle they do not lock and unlock with them, they do nothing but however they still work manually by the switch so nothing is broken just wired wrong, I wired it per the instructions on the12v wiring diagram for my truck.  did I do it wrong?  I did it right at the plug in the passengerside kick panel.   Any help would be greatly appreciated

2 - Also on my 530t when i arm it they roll up perfectly basically it works perfectly now that i followed the instructions in my last post, but however now they driver side switch will only roll the driver side down and not back up, the only way to get the window up is to arm the system, any suggestions on this as well?

3 -  I was also wondering if when I turn on Remote Start when armed, can i have it unarm it automatically?  Right now I can remote start and it wont set off the alarm but if i just go and open the door to get in the alarm goes off, but I do have the ability to unarm it while its Remote Started, so is there anyway to Automatically disarm then remote start in one swift button config?

Thanks on the remote start portion, 2 left...

It has no keylesss entry,  I have tried playing with all the wires and nothing works.  I really cant see where I went wrong. the wires i hooked it up to give off 12v when the button is pressed, but if it had been right like it was it would of at least did one of the two: unlock or lock  Im lost as to what the problem causing it from locking and unlocking on arm and disarm but working nornally from the switches.

I also didn't hook up any wires on H2 wiring harness, Was I supposed to? Um this 2nd Unlock output looks important I feel like a jackass is this what i am missing?

if this truck didnt have factory keyless entry the door locks are 5 wire reverse polarity. did you use relays and wire them up as such?

I Sure Didnt I guess I got the instructions wrong, swore it said that if i have keyless it was 5wire reverse polarity, so I need to get 1 or 2 relays, how do i know what to get and how do i wire it up to my two wires?

This is what I read and I guess i got it goofed up, So What can I do to Rectify this?

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POWER LOCK PINK / YELLOW (TYPE C) See NOTE *1 IN EITHER KICK PANEL

NOTE *1 If equipped with FACTORY KEYLESS ENTRY, Vehicle is a TYPE "B" Door Locking System, WITHOUT FACTORY KEYLESS, This is a TYPE C Door Locking System and you MUST get the lock and unlock wires in the PASSENGER KICK PANEL (Parking Brake Braket is in the way) you MUST also TEST for SWITCH and MOTOR wires ONLY with the DRIVERS DOOR SWITCH. On this TYPE C System you MUST TEST from the DRIVERS DOOR Switch only when testing for SWITCH and MOTOR wires.

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yep, with keyless they are negative trigger(type B). without they are 5 wire(type C). see the relay/door lock section on this site, it will show you how to wire them up.

Thanks a lot!!  I have an idea as to what i am doing I just must of got them backwards.  Luckily nothing was harmed.

Now allI need to fix is the Window problem Hope someone out there knows. ANYONE!?!? hehe

i want to double check, i got a 8 wire harness formy locks, here are whati got for em

2 are window wires

1 is 12v constant 24/7

1 is 12v lock Passenger switch only Meaning only passenger side switch operate passenger at 12v lock

1 is 12v unlock Passenger switch only Meaning only passenger side switch operate passenger at 12v unlock

1 is 12v lock driver and passenger switch Meaning both side switches operate passenger at 12v lock

1 is 12v unlock driver and passenger switch Meaning both side switches operate passenger at 12v unlock

I am unsure what the other one is for Ground maybe?

still 5wire right sounds right to me though, and no actuator that i know of cause when i look into the door i just see the motor right there in front of me NO excess wires coming down to a box or anything

5 wire I hope, that appears to be 2 relays eww I didnt wanna have to touch relays

All problems seem to have been rectified, i have yet to try the locks and install relays i have a couple questions on the relays, Shock Sensor, and Heater/AC

1 - How do I hook up the relay.  I know how it gets wired I just dont see how i put the wires on it without killing the circiuit to control the locks with the switches.

Basically I just need to know how to hook up the Switches and Motors to the Relay I see the diagram for 5wap but how do i add them exactly.  I have a wire for Motor Lock(Pink/Orange) and Wire for Motor unlock(Pink/Black), Wire for Switch Lock(Pink / YELLOW) and Switch unlock(Pink/Lt Green).  do I splice a wire into each of these wires and run it to the relays? Will that work or is that the wrong way to do it?  Also I will use the 12V wire(BLACK/ White) at that same plug as the other wires. basically take 4 Wires attach to relays as needed then solder them 4 wires into a spot on the BLACK/ White 12v Wire, would that be good or bad on power consumption?  I tend to overanalize things and I have a pretty Good idea I am correct on how to do this but I wanna make sure as I have had a couple of problems in this install that seemed stupid but easily fixable without damage to my factory wiring or vehicle period.

Here is a diagram of what the door locks wiring looks like http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/media/253951_1

2 - The Heater/AC Does not come on with Remote start like it should, it only comes on after i get in the truck and turn the key to the RUN position(Everything else like stereo does come on but i think thats because it is plugged into a different source.)  I have 3 Gray / YELLOW Wires(2 Big gauge ones, and 1 small gauge and thats what I hooked it up to according to a local stereo shop, the small one.)  Should it be ran to the Bigger ones? Did I hook it up wrong, I am pretty sure cause otherwise I would have the Heater/AC turning on.  Yes the Heater is set to be on not off so that isnt the problem.  Also will it hurt anything to swap it around to test each wire?

3 - And Finally the Shock Sensor, Its the cheap basic one that came with the Alarm.  Which way moves sensitivity up?  Right up, left down?  I really don't notice any difference to what settings I select.  I don't get any kind of Warn Away beeps either.   Which way is the plug supposed to be in it?  where the Green wire is looped to the Blue wire need to be near the Sensor or Control Module or Either way?  Also how should I treat this Sensor, can I bind the wires togehter or does it hender performance?  I have seen several forums posting to Mount it on Chassie or metal but the book says not to.  I am pretty sure I need a different sensor because what I want is minimal protection on the outside but I would like a warn away, and to have FULL security on the inside of the truck so when people put their hand in my window it sets off the alarm.  But I am wondering if someone goes by with a loud sub system in their car if it will set off the proximity portion of the sensor, I wasn't sure if Sound Waves could interfere with proximity.  I do know if the Shock portion is turned high it will set off with subs of passerbys but would proximity do the same?

Any Knowledgeable input on these questions would make me happy and I thank you for your time on helping me through this mess.