remote start and immobilizer interface

You guys are great but you got to stop using words like facetious or any other words this country hick doesn't understand.   I will start getting a complex.   (lol)    I would hate to dust of the old dictionary, that would take all of the fun out of it.

Ok,  Let me try to make sure I understand what you are telling me before I start this one.  

First thing I got was take off the bypass module (not needed).    Second thing was to remove the chip from the key, being very very careful.   Something to have the wife to do incase it breaks I have someone to blame.  

Next is to place the chip on or very near the factory transponder ring.   If that is the case shouldn't I be able to hold the key very close to test it out.   It seems to be a little more complex than that.   I thought maybe it had to recognize the key was in the switch and the chip was verified.

Sorry to be a pain but I really do appreciate the advice.   I keep thinking I am so close.

Thanks, Mike

Follow up

If I do take the chip out of my factory keys, will the lock, unlock and panic still work on those keys or is it integrated in with the chip.   If that doesn't work the wife will not be happy and you know what that means.

Mike

good one!

if that was the case how would it recognise the key in the cylinder with your key in the box type bypass? right?

Update:

Just got back in from playing.   Latest test.   Took the guts out of my key, which contains my battery, chip, lock, unlock buttons, and held it up to factory transformer ring.   Nothing!!

Next put the tip of my other key in the cyl and it recognized it and started right up.

Put a tiny screwdriver in the key slot and held the gut from my one key that was taken a part close to it and presto it started right up.   So it has to recognize a key in the switch along with the chip or a tiny screwdriver in the switch along with the chip.

I will try anything.

Thanks, Mike

Jar754,

That is how i orginally had it set up.   I am now begining to think that it check for a chip along with a key or something being in the switch based on my latest test.   

I think if i put the key in the module, the ring around the factory switch and a tiny screwdrive in the switch it would start right up.

Ok,

I stand corrected.   Maybe the screwdriver in the switch wasn't magic.    I guess I have to wait for 5 minutes for the tfactory ransponder to reset or something.   Sorry, I tried the screwdriver in the switch with the guts close and no start.

I tried the guts in the bypass transponder and the bypass antenna around the the switch again.   No luck.

As soon as i stick the tip of the key in the switch like 1/4 inch it starts right up.   So it recognizes that chip like 2 inches away.   The gut close should work just fine unless it is putting a small voltage down the key or something which i really doubt.

I will keep trying things but this maybe one of those things that just doesn't happen......

Thanks

I have the blue on the bypass hooked to the blue on the remote starter control.

The bypass instructions says to hook blue to remote start negative(-) status output.

Remote start controller says the blue is (-) 200mA Status Output and if using bypass hook it to blue.   

My guess is that I have programmable keys.   They have chips in them and control the locks and panic alarm.   The key switch factory transponder sensor.   But when I take it off the key switch and hold my key in the center of it the car still won't start with the remote start.   Only when I have it around the key switch and the key in the switch.   Not totally sure it is a programmable key.   I know the mirror is programmable  for garage door, etc...

I don't think I am going to figure this one out.   Nothing makes sense.   Only one thing that I need to figure out is keysense.   I don't have it hooked to anything.   It seems so close, starts with the key in the switch but key out and ring off with key in it, nothing works.

Thanks for your time, Mike