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Post Your Ultimate Remote Start Tips, Tricks


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chriswallace187 
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Posted: December 19, 2008 at 4:29 AM / IP Logged  
hurleyloser wrote:
anti-grind is a feature that prevents you from overcranking if you accidentally turn your key too far on take over, not cranking protection for remote start.
Correct, but if the car has its cranking controlled by the engine computer(aka factory anti-grind), then it's impossible for the remote start to grind the starter. Unless the installer for some reason runs the heavy gauge starter output directly to the solenoid wire, which is unsafe, unnecessary, and pointlessly time wasting.
Unfortunately I've noticed that many late model GMs which have computer controlled cranking also don't seem to work well with voltage sensing for some reason or other, and I have to run a tach wire anyway.
Another thought on tach - it's well worth it, if you have a choice, to stick with remote starts which can use a single cylinder(coil pack or injector) tach input. It's 100 times easier to compare the wire colors at adjacent coil packs or injectors and choose the one that varies, than it is to play treasure hunt at the ECM with pin numbers that are covered up by trim.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
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tedmond 
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Posted: December 19, 2008 at 5:33 PM / IP Logged  

one more to my list, too mayn ask this so make this a point

11) Cars with multiple ignitions and starter wires (nissan and toyota) CONNECT them all. do not leave one out. If your unit only has one output and the car has two. Use a relay and wire it so you have 2 seperate ignition. same goes goes for starter wires. The car has 2 seperate/dedicated circuits for starting. they are not meant to be combined to one circuit. NEVER connect one start wire to the other. it may work now but you will run into issues later.

just my 2cents

soundnsecurity 
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Posted: December 19, 2008 at 7:47 PM / IP Logged  
if the car has factory anti grind you should turn the engine checking function off (for DEI alarms, not sure about others)and set the crank time for 2,maybe 3 seconds depending on the usual weather in your area. i would do this a lot when im feeling lazy BUT ive never had one come back due to this.
hurleyloser 
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Posted: December 19, 2008 at 11:31 PM / IP Logged  
touché chris!
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chriswallace187 
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Posted: December 20, 2008 at 2:52 AM / IP Logged  
hurleyloser,
I do my damnedest. Note again that you weren't wrong.
soundnsecurity,
DEI's "engine checking off" option is great. Unfortunately I've not found any workable programming choices when doing Scytek, Crimestopper, or Omega products that would eliminate the need for a tach wire, and the wholesale price difference is worth ignoring that advantage.
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soundnsecurity 
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Posted: December 20, 2008 at 12:04 PM / IP Logged  
yeah ive only done a select few alarms that were not DEI so i wasn't sure if other alarms had this feature, but thanks for clearing that up
ckeeler 
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Posted: December 20, 2008 at 3:56 PM / IP Logged  

thought i would bring this back to "tips and tricks"

some guys like to poke through a factory gromet in the firewall if its available with a coat hanger then drag the wires through for tack, hood pin, siren (and in my case power wires also), you know junk like that. it works pretty good. but what i like to do is just go to an auto parts store and buy a $3 piece of 3/8" brake tubing about 24" long. i cut one end off and take it to a bench grinder and gring it at a steep angle, then clean all the edges off. it makes for a real nice sharp tube that you can easily push through a gromet. then you just run what ever wires you want to go under the hood through the inside of the hollow tube. once there under the hood just pull out the tube and voila! the wires are through the gromet in seconds. dont have to tape wires to anything. make it sharp so it goes through the gromet real easily. once you pull out the tube, the gromet shrinks right back to the wires and makes a nice seal around them as well. kinda hard to describe so below is a simple picture.

Post Your Ultimate Remote Start Tips, Tricks - Page 5 -- posted image.

KPierson 
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Posted: December 20, 2008 at 4:13 PM / IP Logged  

So you basically make your own wire insertion tool?  I've always used a Thexton 436:

Post Your Ultimate Remote Start Tips, Tricks - Page 5 -- posted image.

Same basic principal - the handle is hollow all the way through and is removable, so once you get the shaft through the grommet you can pull the handle off and feed wires through.

Kevin Pierson
ckeeler 
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Posted: December 20, 2008 at 5:47 PM / IP Logged  
KPierson wrote:

So you basically make your own wire insertion tool?  I've always used a Thexton 436:

Post Your Ultimate Remote Start Tips, Tricks - Page 5 -- posted image.

Same basic principal - the handle is hollow all the way through and is removable, so once you get the shaft through the grommet you can pull the handle off and feed wires through.

exactomundo my friend. only mine is cheaper and i have a few different lengths as well. a 40" piece costs around $3. so i used to buy a tube and cut it in half to make 2 20" ones and myself and another guy would just split the cost, a whole buck and a half each!

howie ll 
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Posted: December 20, 2008 at 6:30 PM / IP Logged  
Err, CK and Kevin, how about copper water pipe, 3/8" = 9mm, surely cheaper than brake piping, also do you have curtain rod in the US?  Metal inner and white plastic outer, 1/4" diameter, chuck some WD on it and away you go. Also use an 18" blade cabinet screwdriver where I've ground the tip down, tape your cables to it, great for nasty thick grometts, the curtain rod works well on M/Benz SL and CLK where you have to run a long way from the trunk. The cuttain rod lso works well when bringing antenna, prox leads etc down the A pillar and strait down bhind the glovebox, or inst panel, thus showing no cables. I can't abide it when any cables show.
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