2009 Honda CR-V Remote Start And Wiring

Hey, thanks for the reply Chris...very helpful! I read the other post, too, by the supremely brilliant contributor ;) Thanks, that was good, too. So I guess that bypass module listed above is considered a "vehicle-specific data bypass", right? Alright, so now I have a better understanding of Data-Link. Depending on which remote starter I pick, is it all the same idea, but with different names? Or do I have to get one that specifically has "Data-Link"? Are there remote starters now that also have a "data-link" type hookup to the vehicle itself, too? Almost like when you install a headunit and you can use a wire harness so you don't have to make so many connections? Thanks! (Sorry for all the questions)

cpgoose wrote: So I guess that bypass module listed above is considered a "vehicle-specific data bypass", right?

We are talking vehicle-specific data bypass here, yes.

cpgoose wrote: Alright, so now I have a better understanding of Data-Link. Depending on which remote starter I pick, is it all the same idea, but with different names? Or do I have to get one that specifically has "Data-Link"?

I'll be honest and say I have no experience at all installing any data link system from any manufacturer with a direct data cable connection. I've done installs using bypasses which have that capability; however I've always just connected the individual wires. I've done some research for this post and figure I'll have to try using a data cable for an install in the near future. Hopefully another contributor can make up for my lack of knowledge here in this regard. Data link bypass manufacturers include Bypasskit(owned by Directed Electronics since 2007 sometime), Idatalink, and Fortin. To my knowledge that's all of them, and everyone else selling data bypasses simply rebadges one of those 3 manufacturers' products. As far as the remote start brands which have the data link capability, the following names seem to pop up on bypass manufacturer websites - Audiovox, AutoPage, Compustar, Directed(Viper/Python), Astrostart, Code Alarm, and several others. Now for what appears to be the key part, and where I hope someone else can clarify. The interface protocol between the bypass modules and the remote start/alarm host units does NOT appear to be standardized across the industry. All 3 manufacturers appear to use a 4-pin RS232 cable for their data link connections; however RS232 only means that the connection is the same and not necessarily the actual data being transmitted. In other words, the hardware is compatible; the software may not necessarily be, and anyone looking to use a data link connection for a remote start install needs to be careful to make sure they are buying remote starts and bypasses which can work with each other. Of course if they don't work data-to-data you always have the option of just connecting the individual wires - but just plugging the cable could definitely save serious time for an installer.

cpgoose wrote: Are there remote starters now that also have a "data-link" type hookup to the vehicle itself, too? Almost like when you install a headunit and you can use a wire harness so you don't have to make so many connections?

In answer to your last question, as far as a quick connection to the vehicle itself - Bulldog (and possibly others) made a T-harness a few years ago which was supposed to do that. The basic idea was that you'd disconnect the factory ignition switch plug, put one end of the T-harness into each end, and plug the rest into the Bulldog remote starter. A neat idea in theory, but in practice it wouldn't plug directly into every remote starter they made, added a god-awful amount of wiring to the underdash area, and didn't include ground, brake, parking lights, hood, tach, doorlocks, and other connections. Bypasskit, whose bypasses I've used more than others, makes a remote start specifically designed for push-to-start late model Nissans, as well as upgrade kits for GM vehicles with OEM remote starters (these add a 2-way remote and longer range antenna), which are much easier to install(3 wires at the diagnostic plug). It's likely that other vehicles will have remote starts like these available in the near future.C Renner's Auto Electronix

My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

chriswallace187, you hit the nail on the head. This was the type of information I was hoping to get started in my thread. However, it started going south. Appreciated the replies but, because of the structure of my first post, the replies were mainly about my specific vehicle and it's integration options. I tried to explain what the thread was about but, it didn't get across. Thanks for your input here. As a correction, the term "iData Link" is used by Automotive Data Solutions, "Data Link" is used by Fortin Electronic Systems, and "D2D/ED2D" is used by Directed Electronics Canada Inc.

Ok, I'm still in the process of researching which remote starter to buy (or alarm/rs combo). I've read in a few places that if I just install a RS unit, then the factory FOB won't work anymore to unlock the door. But then if I install an alarm/RS unit, I can use the new remote to unlock the doors. Does anyone know how to figure this out before I buy? Oh, and I think I'm pretty much set on buying the Honda-SL3 bypass :)

If you want to verify that for yourself, put the key in the ignition, turn to run, and try to operate the factory remote. It will not do anything at that point. Just to clarify, the addition of a remote start doesn't stop the factory remote from working altogether. The factory remote simply won't work with the ignition on, whether it was switched on by the key or by the remote start.C Renner's Auto Electronix

My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Ohh....I gotcha. So, if I want to add a RS and want to open the doors without using the key, then I have to get either a RS/alarm combo, or at least a RS that has KE? Thanks Chris!

Please can I be a Platinum and I'll stop being silly I'm already the only European Gold ( sounds like Olympic Sprinting) . All the guys talking about by-passes, we never got past the 556U here so like Chris I still prefer to hardwire. As a wierd sideline Honda USA uses French Valeo transponders as does Honda UK except the by-pass for the US version doesn't work with the UK version, also since I can't access any product but DEI, I'm very grateful for your views.  Naughty T&T I know you are being tongue in cheek but others may not get our little in-joke, bro. And who are you Mother Goose?

Howdy... Another quick follow-up question. I'm installing a Python 1400xp keyless entry and remote starter. In that manual, it says that H4 is the "Door Lock Harness", and it says H4/1 is green and (-)Lock (+)Unlock, and the H4/3 is blue and is (+)Lock (-)Unlock. They also included a 450m doorlock module. Do I need to use the 450m, or can I just connect the blue and green wires from the 1400 to the car's lock and unlock wires? Thanks!

You can connect direct to the lock/unlock switch wires. However, I always recommend you diode isolate the R/S lock/unlock wires, when it's a flip-flop circuit.Ideal - cmon dude, add to topics in a useful manner, not stuff that is obvious.

Story - Phzzzt! Hey, what happened?! ... Isn't it obvious?

Moral - Never dismiss the obvious.