2009 Honda CR-V Remote Start And Wiring

Cool, thanks loneranger. Since it's been a while that I've used diodes, let me just confirm that I will hook it up correctly:

Crap...I always get that backwards. So by flipping them around it makes it so that the 1400xp can only send the negative pulse TO the unlock and lock wires, right? It prevents signal going TO the 1400xp?

Your concept is correct. DEI, as well as other designs, uses a flip-flop circuit for the outputs. If the factory switch in the vehicle is inadvertently locking, at the same time the flip-flop circuit is unlocking, the module could be severely damaged; or visa-versa. The diodes prevent the positive voltage from grounding, through the factory lock/unlock switches.Ideal - cmon dude, add to topics in a useful manner, not stuff that is obvious.

Story - Phzzzt! Hey, what happened?! ... Isn't it obvious?

Moral - Never dismiss the obvious.

We had  loads of iritations with DEI/Clifford early G5 product with those flip flop driven lock outputs, I got to "conditioning" every install!  Thanfully they listened to our complaints and made them relay driven last year.

The Euro Cat G5 AKA Concept 650 was based on the Concept 550 with various upgrades to turn it into a UK Cat1*. The siren becomes battery back up, the CPU gets an armoured case which must be bolted/screwed or cable tied home, dual circuit passive immobilisers, all immob and power and ground lines black, mandatory hood, trunk and door contacts.  And of course stealth wiring, solder joints etc.  We had loads of complaints centred around the lock outputs, high sensitivity to sleep circuits, and the Wiz V2.2 was a nightmare when adding Intellistart. They modded it 18months ago, to the Concept 650 Mk ll with the new silver remotes, effectively an Intelliguard 850 modded as above. Now it has relay driven outputs, a total (comfort close) option and it's step sister Viper 500XV is similar except for two way remote. Just a point for your clarification, the rest of the world outside North America uses amber indicators front and back, thus we don't wire to the lights, we wire to the indicators or hazards.  *UK Cat l is recognised everywhere but Australia/NZ. They require 3 cut . The insurers started Cat l, especially for fast and furious type Japapnese imports, without transponders etc.  The (irritating) passive immobilisation is thanks to German TUV.

Wow! Thanks for schoolin' me!Ideal - cmon dude, add to topics in a useful manner, not stuff that is obvious.

Story - Phzzzt! Hey, what happened?! ... Isn't it obvious?

Moral - Never dismiss the obvious.

Hey guys...hopefully you're still subscribed to this post...I just had a few questions now that I'm almost done. 1. I'm trying to figure out whether the Python brain in setup for + or - output for the doorlocks. I see that it can do both, but I'm not sure which one it's set to at the moment. Do you know how to check? I never understand how to check with a DMM since I'll get one signal with the 2 wires going one way, and I'll get the opposite (-) signal if I swap them. 2. I found a blue/white wire next to the ECM that I'm assuming in the tach wire. Actually I found 2. One doesn't respond at all to the RPMs, and the other one shoots up very briefly with the RPMs, and then falls back down. I couldn't really get it to hover between 1 and 6v, but I think it's probably the wire. 3. As I've seen in a lot of other posts, the door lock spot refers to the TechTip 1041, but I don't have access. Does that have anything that I'd need to know? Thanks!~

cpgoose wrote: Hey guys...hopefully you're still subscribed to this post...I just had a few questions now that I'm almost done. 1. I'm trying to figure out whether the Python brain in setup for + or - output for the doorlocks. I see that it can do both, but I'm not sure which one it's set to at the moment. Do you know how to check? I never understand how to check with a DMM since I'll get one signal with the 2 wires going one way, and I'll get the opposite (-) signal if I swap them.

This isn't a programmable option. When "lock" is pressed on the remote the green wire will output a (-) pulse and the blue will output (+). When "unlock" is pressed the opposite will happen. Most cars with positive or negative 3-wire door lock systems can be directly connected to these wires and the (in your case) positive pulse will have no effect since the wires rest at 12V+ through the factory relays/lock controller.

cpgoose wrote: 2. I found a blue/white wire next to the ECM that I'm assuming in the tach wire. Actually I found 2. One doesn't respond at all to the RPMs, and the other one shoots up very briefly with the RPMs, and then falls back down. I couldn't really get it to hover between 1 and 6v, but I think it's probably the wire.

You could try "tach-find-by-fire", if you don't mind the name I've just coined for it. Connect the violet/white from the Python temporarily to the suspected tach wire, and attempt to program it to the Python. If the LED never comes on, it won't work. If the LED lights up, it's probably good and you can attempt a remote start to verify that the cranking time is sufficient and not excessive.

cpgoose wrote: 3. As I've seen in a lot of other posts, the door lock spot refers to the TechTip 1041, but I don't have access. Does that have anything that I'd need to know? Thanks!~

1041 is in the Downloads section of this site. Look at it if you like - it's simply a guide to the different types of lock systems.C Renner's Auto Electronix

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