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keyless entry issue for 93 rx7


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chriswallace187 
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Posted: January 29, 2009 at 11:59 PM / IP Logged  
From your original post:
rotarypower101 wrote:
it appears from the Lock Actuator Scematic for this car that the circuit must charge off the current state the lock position is in and then it can throw the actuator, ie simply grounding out “G/R” or “G/Y” to “B” on the “door lock switch LH” does not work.
This is sort of the reverse of how it actually works. The ground will throw the actuator immediately. The capacitor charging stops it from continuing to do so indefinitely.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
rotarypower101 
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Posted: January 30, 2009 at 11:12 PM / IP Logged  
I am having a hard time wrapping my head around why this would be so ?
Could you explain the process in a lot more detail please?
Because when grounding out “G/R” or “G/Y” to “B” from a state of “G/R” ,“G/Y” and “B” disconnected from the “door lock switch “ and if any pair or combination of wire are put together nothing happens.
Only when the grounding out of “G/R” or “G/Y” to “B” is held for a definite amount of time and then, and only then can a change to the alternate wire of “G/R” or “G/Y” cause a lock/unlock action to take place.
I am not saying that what you are trying to explain is not happening I just don’t follow your reasoning behind this statement, and would like clarification of the ideas being presented.
chriswallace187 wrote:
From your original post:
rotarypower101 wrote:
it appears from the Lock Actuator Scematic for this car that the circuit must charge off the current state the lock position is in and then it can throw the actuator, ie simply grounding out “G/R” or “G/Y” to “B” on the “door lock switch LH” does not work.
This is sort of the reverse of how it actually works. The ground will throw the actuator immediately. The capacitor charging stops it from continuing to do so indefinitely.
rotarypower101 
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Posted: January 30, 2009 at 11:17 PM / IP Logged  
ckeeler wrote:
i understand thats what the diagram says it does. heres the problem.....i've never seen a relay like that, and dont think it exists, so.......whats the part number? where can i find one? if its out there i'd like to have about a dozen or so.(seriously)
Hey ckeeler, tell me do you find this interesting?
A friend tracked down this little part, and while not as cheap as a do it yourself 4/5 relay option, I believe it fits the bill of a single momentary pulse causing two distinct states.
impulse latching relay
rotarypower101 
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Posted: January 30, 2009 at 11:36 PM / IP Logged  
rotarypower101 wrote:
Because when grounding out “G/R” or “G/Y” to “B” from a state of “G/R” ,“G/Y” and “B” disconnected from the “door lock switch “ and if any pair or combination of wire are put together nothing happens.
Only when the grounding out of “G/R” or “G/Y” to “B” is held for a definite amount of time and then, and only then can a change to the alternate wire of “G/R” or “G/Y” cause a lock/unlock action to take place.
Just want to confirm this is what you are asking me to do correct? and that i am not misinterpreting what is being explained.
Also am i explaining myself sufficiently, am i leaving any ambiguity in my explanations of how the system reacts to physically changing it and empirically observing an outcome?
chriswallace187 
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Posted: January 31, 2009 at 12:46 AM / IP Logged  
The test you put down is indeed what I was suggesting.
I could be wrong about this, but is it the case that prior to your installation of the 2nd actuator(the RHD one that you put in the driver's door) you would either lock or unlock the driver's door and the passenger's would follow after a delay of 1 second or so? Or is the delay much longer/shorter?
About how long do you have to hold the ground on the G/R or G/Y in order for the locks to operate? If it's less than 3.5 seconds, most Audiovox alarms can be programmed to output a (-) pulse for that duration.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
ckeeler 
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Location: New Mexico, United States
Posted: January 31, 2009 at 11:31 AM / IP Logged  

rotarypower101 wrote:
ckeeler wrote:
i understand thats what the diagram says it does. heres the problem.....i've never seen a relay like that, and dont think it exists, so.......whats the part number? where can i find one? if its out there i'd like to have about a dozen or so.(seriously)
Hey ckeeler, tell me do you find this interesting?
A friend tracked down this little part, and while not as cheap as a do it yourself 4/5 relay option, I believe it fits the bill of a single momentary pulse causing two distinct states.
impulse latching relay

thanks but i already found the part i need.

interesting your still working on this. i guess i can assume you havent yet tried the relay setup i suggested.

rotarypower101 
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Posted: February 01, 2009 at 12:46 PM / IP Logged  
ckeeler wrote:
[ i guess i can assume you havent yet tried the relay setup i suggested.
No I dropped the ball a little bit, I thought I had the correct relay on hand turns out I did not after reviewing the part number . But the correct parts have been ordered as well as some other fun parts for 3 other projects. Remote controlled PowerWheel anyone? ;)
But I am 99% confident that it will work now once the correct parts are procured.
As long as the circuit is allows to maintain a latched contact state and simply be “remotely”actuated by the alarm while disengaging the stock “door switch” while this is happening, there really is no way it could not work, save for the small variances from introducing different components into the mix.
rotarypower101 
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Joined: July 27, 2006
Posted: February 01, 2009 at 2:05 PM / IP Logged  
I know what ckeeler has outlined should work, but I have always been one to not leave well enough alone…so if you will bear with me I would like to try it from both angles if you would be willing to stick with it a little while longer Chris.
Because I am sure there is a way to do it as you are explaining, my only concern is that there might be more to it than simply pulsing G/R or G/Y.
Wouldn’t the circuit, the way I have observed it to work, have to charge the opposing cap first then ground the intended lock/unlock wire even if the pulse width was abnormally long?
chriswallace187 wrote:
The test you put down is indeed what I was suggesting.
I could be wrong about this, but is it the case that prior to your installation of the 2nd actuator(the RHD one that you put in the driver's door) you would either lock or unlock the driver's door and the passenger's would follow after a delay of 1 second or so? Or is the delay much longer/shorter?
Correct, I could try to time it with my stopwatch if you are interested to know a rough approximation.
chriswallace187 wrote:
About how long do you have to hold the ground on the G/R or G/Y in order for the locks to operate? If it's less than 3.5 seconds, most Audiovox alarms can be programmed to output a (-) pulse for that duration.
just tested as per your request, holding the ground on the G/R or G/Y takes less than a second to “charge” the circuit allowing a lock/unlock to take place.
Also toggling between G/R or G/Y to “B” ( once the circuit has been “charged”) allows for immediate toggling between a desired state of lock/unlock.
So I guess the concern is, can this alarm reproduce this extra step of acting like it has “charged the system first? I know you said it does not work this way, but this is the best way I have to describe my thoughts on the topic. Also I do not see anything in the users manual stating that the pulse width can be increased, how is this acomplished?
Been looking around her for other info Chris, you seem to be very prolific around here on the topics I was searching through!
Thanks for the help, I am very grateful as well as others from the other threads I have been perusing, I am sure.
below are the PDFs for the car alarm and satellite remote start pager if they are at all handy.
audiovox APS 786T PDF manual
CL100 satalite pager
chriswallace187 
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Joined: March 11, 2002
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: February 01, 2009 at 3:17 PM / IP Logged  
By chance do you have the rest of the alarm connected? If so you could try temporarily connecting the red and green lock switch wires to the G/R and G/Y on the vehicle and operating the remote to see if it works the locks.
If the alarm isn't hooked up yet you could just temporarily connect the black wire to ground and the 2 red wires to 12V in order to test the lock outputs. Also plug the antenna in.
I would recommend 2 things for this test - first, do it with the actuator switch connected because you'll actually be operating the system once its working. Second, put diodes inline on the red and green wires, cathode side facing the Audiovox brain. (This is because the outputs are positive as well and you'd directly short them to ground otherwise.)
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
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