2003 toyota matrix remote start issues

This is getting boring.  If an auto, put selector in park, and  with the key in the ignition, with the ignition off, loop from your supply to ign 1 wire.  Then loop from there to the starter wire for 1 sec.  If you've done everything right the car should start. If it does,  remove key about 3 feet away,  wait  5 mins. then repeat.  If it doesn't start, you need a transponder by-pass.

Put key in ignition and r/s...Does it work...?M.E.C.P & First-Class

Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

tommy... wrote: Put key in ignition and r/s...Does it work...?

no it does not start, still turns over, but does not start.

howie ll wrote: This is getting boring.

Sorry! The TACH programming was my fault since it said to do that in the instructions. For some reason I skipped over it. I bought this car used, so I am not sure if it has a factory engine kill system or not.

Ok, so you've got tach programmed and it's trying to start......that's a good sign. Perform the following test: Turn on ignition key, turn on windshield wipers, heater, and radio. Turn key back off. Move key through all posistions from Off to Acc to Run to Start and back Run.......all the while observing the behavior of the above mentioned accessories. Also observe the dashboard warning lights and seat belt reminder chime. Turn key off and remove. Activate remote start, observe the accessories again, and find out which ones don't behave correctly.....post back with results.

Other thoughts: Like JWorm said, you'd never use both the alarm's positive and negative door trigger wires. That car has only negative trigger, RED / yellow in the driver's running board, which catches all five doors including the rear hatch. Also, both the lock and unlock wire are in the driver's kick....I've never had a need to go to the passenger's side. But if you find it in the passenger side that should work fine too.

I am getting voltage at both ignitions 1 and 2. Here is what I have discovered: The Alarm manual says that the Heater/AC Output (ACCESSORY) "registers voltage when the key is turned to the ON (or RUN) position, but not the ACC (Accessory) Position. The voltage drops out when the key is turned to the START (or CRANK) position. The Blue/Red (Accessory) @ the ignition harness HAS +12v when the key is on ACC, contrary to what the instruction manual says. Is this a problem? I will run wiper/radio/heater test now.

Wiper/Radio/Heater test is all good. Everything runs fine by remote start control or by key control.

The car still doesn't start. My last post might have looked like the car was starting by remote start, but it still is not, just the wipers etc still ran.